Brisk racing makes a one piece design plug. I have been running them in my truck since summer & knock on wood I haven't had any problems with them.

 

My limited experience with plugs tells me it got way too hot, either something is going on inside that cylinder, or the plug wasn't properly torqued down, because it dissipates the heat through the plug seat & threads. In this plug they are reversed, (threads on top of the seat) but it still the only place the plug has to transfer the heat to.

UCF-150 - Does the plug look like it has combustion past the seat and up into the threads? Maybe a burr from the old plug removal? That would give an inaccurate torque reading when it was initially installed.

 

The Brisk plugs are a cold heat range and they are not platinum - so expect to change them every 20 to 30k.

 

I figured that I would resurrect this thread from the realms of the archive to show the newest plug burn.

Pulled this plug out of no 7 cyl. Now, if I was smart the first time around, I would have noted which cylinder I pulled the original plug out of swapped COP's with. I believe I pulled the first plug out of no 6, and could have swore that I swapped the COP's between 5 and 6... but I could have very well swapped it between 6 and 7 because they are easier access.

I took all the champions out and went with Motorcraft SP462 / PZT1F, and just like the first round of plug swapping, I used nickel antiseeze on the sleeves.


I'm not sure, but I think something is missing.......... (that's sarcasm)

 

Whoa.

 

With that much material missing I would be concerned that some had accumulated in the combustion chamber as was causing a hot spot.

 

You would have listened to the MANY posts in the past that these plugs were no good for modular motors IMO.

But thanks for posting, this supports past findings.

 

hardy har har, someone's got jokes...

 

And someone is one. That's what these forums are for, if you don't draw, consider or investigate others experiences, you in-turn can suffer the consequences. Seems to me that's what's happened here, - right.
I've seen plenty of posts that others had to yank those Champions out, our trucks didn't run right with them. Not just here, but it's on the net.

Again , thanks for posting.

BTW- Fedral Mogul had a great idea, but it just didn't pan out. - Wish it did, that would have solved one big issue.

 

When I swapped them in, I did the research. I looked for problems with the champion plugs and didn't came up with anything significant. The only thing I got were useless comments from people saying "I wouldn't put a champion in my weed eater." I don't want hear say, I want facts, and that's what I've put here.

If you feel it necessary to call me a joke for you to feel good, then so be it, but I'm just trying to share info with others out there.

 

I've had Champions in my 2008 Screw for 5000 mi. now. No problems at all. Runs exactly as it did with the stock plugs. No horror stories here.

HYPO

 

Guys say things like that based on past experiance. My experience with them goes back 30 years when I put them in my Dads chevy. Didnt last a week before I was doing them again. I wouldn't put another one in my weedeater.
I use a commercial engine for my carpet cleaning machine that came with champion plugs. 24hp kohlar engine. Plugs wore out after 1500 hours. Replace them with NGK and I replaced them after 3000 hours just because I thought they were due they still worked great.

 

ALWAYS use Motorcraft only. This is coming from a Ford senior master tech. I speak from experience.

 

i work on all types of cars and trucks and the one thing i have learned is that if has a blue oval on it only use motorcraft parts. from oil and filter to the alternator. its the only way to keep them happy

 

Champion has never made a spark plug that would work reliably in anything other than small engines and Mopars. That's just the way they are.