Manually Cranking Engine on 97

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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 02:38 PM
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Manually Cranking Engine on 97

I need to attempt to manually turn my engine (seized up). recommendations? Should I do this from above the the engine or below? Should I remove the fan(and how-to)? What is the socket size for the crankshaft?
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 02:52 PM
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18mm on the crank pulley. You could probably do it from the bottom if you don't want to remove the fan. If you can't then you may have to remove the fan and shroud, the fan is lefty loosy righty tighty.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 02:53 PM
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I dunno the socket size off the top of my head but I do know its easiest to do it from underneath.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Gotts2BMe
18mm on the crank pulley. You could probably do it from the bottom if you don't want to remove the fan. If you can't then you may have to remove the fan and shroud, the fan is lefty loosy righty tighty.
I can't seem to get a good grip from the bottom due to a protection plate(or pan). On the fan, are you speaking about the four small bolts that are directly behind the fan itself?
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 05:35 PM
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no thats the water pump. Just go straight down from there and you will find the crank pulley. It is an 18mm you will need
 
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Gotts2BMe
no thats the water pump. Just go straight down from there and you will find the crank pulley. It is an 18mm you will need
I'm hip to where the main crank pulley is, it's the fan that I'd like to take off. There are four bolts on the back of the fan and four on the crank that it is attached to.
Which ones do I remove?
Thanks!
 
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 09:36 PM
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4 on the fan should remove it. The 4 on the base of the fan clutch are the water pump bolts.

If the engine is really seized you may not be able to turn it manually. Use an 18mm 1/2" drive socket with a breaker bar and a long cheater and it'll be alot easier. I have heard that you can fill the cylinders with oil on a seized engine to make it easier. Good luck!
 
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 09:37 PM
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neither the fan itself is threaded onto the pump itself. get a big cresent wrench in your left hand, a 3/8 drive ratchet with a 10mm socket on it. Place the socket on one of the bolts on the pulley itself so the pulley wont turn, then take your big cresent wrench on the fan and turn it off, lefty loosey
 
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 11:12 AM
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Update:
Tried from under the truck, and turning the bolt counter-clockwise, IT COMES OUT!
I tightened it and then started the other way (clockwise). Could not get a good grip due to the main front suspension beam. I am now removing the fan to try from the top....
 
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by photoprofessor
Update:
Tried from under the truck, and turning the bolt counter-clockwise, IT COMES OUT!
I tightened it and then started the other way (clockwise). Could not get a good grip due to the main front suspension beam. I am now removing the fan to try from the top....
I highly recomend taking the sparkplugs out for this experiment, as ther may
be fluid in the cylenders that is causing hydrolock.
You may also break the bolt off in the craknshaft if the engine is truely
seized. But then if the engine is ruined anyway, it will not make much
difference. You can get the stud out when the engine is out of the truck.

Good luck

Also , that big threaded stud that holds the fan and clutch on the water pump
can be a bugger to get off.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Tumba
I highly recomend taking the sparkplugs out for this experiment, as ther may be fluid in the cylenders that is causing hydrolock.

Also , that big threaded stud that holds the fan and clutch on the water pump
can be a bugger to get off.
Thanks for the tips,
Do you think that hydro lock is an issue since I did not have any type of smoke or stalling when that truck was last running?
Also, Taking that fan off is no easy treat, would it just be easier to remove the water pump instead?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by photoprofessor
Thanks for the tips,
Do you think that hydro lock is an issue since I did not have any type of smoke or stalling when that truck was last running?
Also, Taking that fan off is no easy treat, would it just be easier to remove the water pump instead?
Sometimes I think it is easier to remove the pump. If you have to replace it, it can be easier to seperate in a vice.

The reason I said to take the plugs out, is that sometimes an intake gasket leak, or a head gasket leak will let a cylender fill with coolant. therefor making it lock up. If you take the plugs out, and it will then turn over, note which hole the water comes out of, and also note the oder. To see if it has a gas smell. On rare occaision an injecter could stick open.
Are there no other symptoms other than you parked it one day, and it just would not crank again. If so, I would suspect you have been having steam out of the tail pipe for awhile. Then sometimes,it just happens all at once.

Also, did you check the codes?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 02:57 PM
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I have not checked the codes, as I did not get the check engine light. It has been running normally other than the oil pressure dropped. I now have the fan and shroud off(rented a tool at autozone) and began turning the bolt connected to the main pulley. If I turn to the left, the bolt loosens and comes out(with oil on it). Turning it to the right won't budge and it feels as if the bolt is giving way. Any other ideas to getting the motor to turn?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 03:30 PM
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How does the oil on the dipstick look? Is it milky?

Was this tried with the sparkplugs in or out.

When the oil pressure was dropping, was it losing power?

This doesn't sound good at all.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 03:35 PM
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Which engine, please?
 
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