Best oil filter and why for my 1998 w/ 5.4

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Old Dec 19, 2008 | 09:38 PM
  #31  
jbrew's Avatar
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From: MI
Originally Posted by openclasspro#11
lol,my beater car is a 92 accord-382 k milesbought it at 375k-motor isall original inside,except for 3rd timing belt,-7,500 mile oil changes at dealer [1 owner before me-saw all the receipts,i change oil and filter at 375k miles - with amsoil 530 and eao filter-,i didn't spew my engine,so what is with the triton that he'll make a mess but my high mileage 2.2l didn't make a mess within 7k miles ,let alone 3 k miles?

That stuff (like Amsoil) cleans so well, it will plug up sh^t in a high mileage motor. Pick-up screen - little orifices in the heads an what not.. You better flush the the block first.

More than welcome to try Tjk .. The PVC system/ IAC will Noticeably sludge up first.

CASTROL SYN BLND = Good and plenty.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Dec 19, 2008 at 09:51 PM.
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 08:57 AM
  #32  
tjk_in_cny's Avatar
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From: Central New York
Originally Posted by jbrew
That stuff (like Amsoil) cleans so well, it will plug up sh^t in a high mileage motor. Pick-up screen - little orifices in the heads an what not.. You better flush the the block first.

More than welcome to try Tjk .. The PVC system/ IAC will Noticeably sludge up first.

CASTROL SYN BLND = Good and plenty.
UMM Brew.....
I am already running the full synthetic Royal Purple.
Man, you are suppossed to be reading my mind and letting me know this stuff before I do it.
I did run a full synthectic (NAPA's brand made by Valvoline) for about 2000 miles and then drained it to prep for this Royal Purple change.
I know you have a pic of the IAC you can post, or I can not be lazy and pull out my mauals. What problems will a sludged up IAC cause me. I am pretty sure I know where it is and I see other members have removed them and cleaned them out. I just hope this doesn't have to be anything I have to do until the Holidays are over. When I did my COP's and plugs a few weeks ago, I pulled and checked the new PCV assembly I put in last April, and it looked like new. I did ask the NAPA Regional Sales Manager (met him where we now vacation) and a friend of mine at the Ford Dealership if I could make the jump right into the full synthetic's and they said no problem as long as I didn't mind dumping the 1st batch at 1500 miles, I went to 2000 miles. The prior owner said he was running synthetic's in it already, but I found that I can't believe a word that comes out of his mouth.
Scares me flushing the block. What product and method do you recommend.

Let me know, Thanks Brew,
TJKinCNY
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 09:12 AM
  #33  
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From: MI
If you have been running it for awhile, your prolly fine. I didn't get away with it and had to clean all the stuff up and flush the block real well. I wish pulling the oil pan was easier . I've been worried about the pick up screen since then. I'm paranoid about changing oil for that reason .. I never seen that before. It's not a good thing to do with a high mileage motor, they get set in their ways inside sort of. Why would you want to change that when you made it this far using what you are.

You can do it, this is why I don't screw around in the crankcase. I want to get another 100,000 behind me.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Dec 20, 2008 at 09:21 AM.
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 12:04 PM
  #34  
4wd150's Avatar
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From: New Jersey
im going to try out a wix filter soon, no reason just wanna try them out. should i just keep using my same castrol oil?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 12:39 PM
  #35  
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From: Utah
I get my oil at walmart. Ford 5w20 and the motor craft filter. Trucks got 110 and the vans got 210. Both have never giving me an engine problem period. I change the oil at no mor then 5k and usually much sooner. My car gets the best filter I can find and fully synthetic. I only change the oil in it once a year and it only sees about 2000 miles in that time. I change it in the spring in it. I use valvoline in it.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 12:52 PM
  #36  
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From: MI
I'll put it another way and shorten it up. If you run 200,000 on normal less expensive oil , then switch to a full synthetic, you could run into problems.

Engines build sludge and when you break it free all at once , it has to go somewhere right ? Makes sense to me and that's all I'm trying to say - That's it..

That's why you flush the block first if you get a wild one up there and feel like doing things different. Trans oil is used to flush the crank case because of it's cleaning capabilities.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Dec 20, 2008 at 03:37 PM.
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