Plug change @95K with 4.6L
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Missouri
Plugs
As it turns out, the plug ID number for the Motorcraft AGSF22W plugs have been changed to SP-479. After a recent conversation with JBrew, I went back to the Oriellys store where I purchased my APP103 Autolites because they said they didn't have the Motorcrafts. I once again asked for the AGSF22W plugs and they once again told me they didn't have them and recomended the Autolites. I then asked them to look for Motorcraft SP-479 and to everyone's surprise, they had them and the AGSF22WM number was also stamped on the box. The Autolites are still running very well after 3K miles however.
Also, I don't buy the Bosch plug causing the broken valve theory. In my opinion, there was another mechanical problem that hasn't been identified.
Also, I don't buy the Bosch plug causing the broken valve theory. In my opinion, there was another mechanical problem that hasn't been identified.
Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Snow Hill, NC
I replaced my '99 4.6L plugs & wires (no cop's) a few weeks ago. No problem, just take your time. Let me see if I can remeber some details.
Cylinders 1,2,5,6,7 required no ujoint. A 3/8' drive rachet with a long 12" extension worked fine.
On nbrs 3,4 & 8 one ujoint and a few extensions were required. It will be evident how to "build" your "tool" when you get to each specific cylinder. For #5 you need to move the power steering pump reservoir bracket. 3 screws, no problem at all. There is NO NEED to loosen or mess with the fuel rails at all. They are not in the way.
Be sure and blow out the chamber before removing the plug. I found that a long (18") of nylon tubing on my air gun made it real easy to get down into the chamber. Once the plug was removed I vacuumed the chamber out with a 18" piece of hose hooked up to my shop vac.
Used no anti-size as the plugs were nickel plated. AC Delco 41-810 double platium. Sorry guys, but they were what was available at the time.
Oh, I almost forgot. After blowing othe the port, I did spray a tiny, tiny amount of wd40 down on the seat of the plug. I taped two of those red plastic tubes that comes with the wd40 together to make it easier to spray down into the chamber. Figured it would help them turn easier when they broke loose.
Did not use a torque wrench for tightening. Had a pretty good feel for 12 ~ 15 ft/lbs.
Other than that, it was not difficult. Just take your time and do one cylinder at a time.
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'99 F-150 Sport Extended Cab
Cylinders 1,2,5,6,7 required no ujoint. A 3/8' drive rachet with a long 12" extension worked fine.
On nbrs 3,4 & 8 one ujoint and a few extensions were required. It will be evident how to "build" your "tool" when you get to each specific cylinder. For #5 you need to move the power steering pump reservoir bracket. 3 screws, no problem at all. There is NO NEED to loosen or mess with the fuel rails at all. They are not in the way.
Be sure and blow out the chamber before removing the plug. I found that a long (18") of nylon tubing on my air gun made it real easy to get down into the chamber. Once the plug was removed I vacuumed the chamber out with a 18" piece of hose hooked up to my shop vac.
Used no anti-size as the plugs were nickel plated. AC Delco 41-810 double platium. Sorry guys, but they were what was available at the time.
Oh, I almost forgot. After blowing othe the port, I did spray a tiny, tiny amount of wd40 down on the seat of the plug. I taped two of those red plastic tubes that comes with the wd40 together to make it easier to spray down into the chamber. Figured it would help them turn easier when they broke loose.
Did not use a torque wrench for tightening. Had a pretty good feel for 12 ~ 15 ft/lbs.
Other than that, it was not difficult. Just take your time and do one cylinder at a time.
________________________
'99 F-150 Sport Extended Cab