Hey guys i am changing plugs tomorow and wanted tips from you. Do i need to remove the fuel rail? Also what about dielectric grease is this needed? What would you torque them to i am afraid of blowouts. what special tools will i need besides a torque wrench swivel sockets anything like that? Any input on this would be much appreciated I have a 2000 f-150 with a 5.4
also I already tried the technical artical on this matter it doesent work anymore thanks

 

Dielectic compound is definitely your friend in this job.

you should not have to remove the fuel rail, although i've read some people have for a bit easier shot at the COP retainer screw?

when doing my plug changes im invasive, i remove the megafuse block out of my way, you know that block where theres 4 good sized wires to it. im able to stuff my hands in to where i need to be, no swivels.

as for torque, i have not launched a plug yet and i dont go by a tq #. i have always just done a "snug" feel. or for a better idea, NGK boxes have a chart on the back. for tapered plugs (ours) finger tight and 1/16th turn. for gasket type (washer type) it was 1/2 to 2/3 turn. again thats if i remember correctly


only other tip i can think of is when installing plugs, if your sparkplug socket is too firm and pulls the extension out, use tape to hold socket to ext.

 

well just got done with the first on on driver side rear and it wasent so bad i removed the fuel rails they seemd to come off farley easy now i have to go get grease also the injectors snaped in and out easy i didnt expect that

 

I also need to get to the last two spark plugs. Drivers side, rear of engine. I've never removed the fuel rails before, so I would like some guidance. I've remove the two bolts holding the fuel rails against the engine block. I've unplugged all the wires. How do I remove the fuel rail from the fuel injectors?

 

short firm tugging aughta do it after they are free and able to move up without hanging up.

 

I pull up on the rail closest to the #5 injector, closest to rad, and when it pops the others follow. I try to keep the injectors in the intake manifold. When it comes time to reinstall a dab of clean engine oil on the O-rings and I slide the rail back on the #8 injector, closest to the firewall, first and then align #7 and 6 and 5 and push firmly down on the rail. If the hold down bolts do not line up with the holes the rail may not be properly seated on the injectors. Look at the rail to see which one is off. Caution if any of the injectors come out of the intake manifold pull them out of the rail and oil both the top and bottom O-ring. if you do not lube the O-rings thay can tear and cause a leak.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

I am changing the cops and plugs this weekend and I cant remember if we are to use anti-siez or not.

 

matter of preference. 97-03 didnt have any real problems with them breaking loose easily without it for me.

 

I use it with mine but I do not recommend using it. I pull my plugs frequently to read them. I do not have my truck properly tuned yet and I want to be on top of any potential problem. This makes it easier to unscrew them and I need not fear pulling a thread out with the plug.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

Nah, no Anti -sieze required. They don't need any help with the removing process. You might wanna use a thread locker (The RED Stuff)

JK.

 

Thanks. I will let you all know how it went when I am done. By the way, the engine started missing and thowing codes after I washed the engine with a garden hose. I used a low flow spray too.

 

That's why you shouldn't wash the engine.