I have a 2005 F-150 5.4L 3V, and I've already got the Motorcraft plugs and would like to work on it this weekend. My rig only has 35K on it, and when I first got my Xclal 3 from Troyer performance the truck screamed. Over the past 5K the truck has calmed down a bit, and won't open wide up and snap it like it used to. I think it's the plugs or maybe an issue with the injectors. I received that recall notice from Ford regarding the 3V engines having some issues with "stuck open" or "stuck closed" injectors. How could I inspect the injectors to know whether one is closed? I hope this isn't a stupid question because I would think that the truck would run seriously sluggish if an injector was closed completely. Wouldn't a check engine light go off? Also, isn't it better to pull the rails off and get to the plugs more directly than work with the angle extension on a ratchet to pull the plugs? And one more thing, is it important to replace the COP's if I've only got 35K on it?
Any comments would be money!

 

If you haven't already, you need to do use the advanced search and look at all the plug postings. Also, do a search on the "sparkplug TSB" if you are not familiar with that. Now, your plugs should be good for many more miles. I changed mine at 65,000 and they looked brand new. The truck ran perfect both before the change and no better afterward.

The injector problem that I have heard of is they stick open and flood the engine causing a hydrolock if you keep running it. Try disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes, leaving the lights on, to reset the PCM learning mode. I wonder if your PCM has not just settled into a comfortable zone. You might also try reloading your tune. Just some thoughts.

 

I just changed all of my plugs at 38,ooo miles and they were is terrible shape. The gap was close to double what it is new. I followed the TSB to the tee and still had 5 plugs break. Luckily I was able to get 3 out myself and the dealer was able to get the last 2 out for cheap. Just be carefull and you should be fine.

 

No need to replace COP's until a) one screws up or b) everything is fine but you got like 100-150k on it. By this time, if no failure has come, one will, they are old and weak. Why you are replacing the plugs so early is another question. Check them out maybe but they should be fine for another 50k at least. Injector issue is likely. I remember when we were building these things in about 05'ish they switched from Seimens injectors back to Bosch for some reason, vapor lock I think. That is probably the recall issue. Injectors are able to be tested to my knowledge, so maybe try that. A CEL SHOULD go on if one is even running crappy, not fully off even. From my experiences on my 00 5.4, the fuel rail doesn't even need removing for it, yours should be easier still, so try without removing first. If it helps, it just pops off the injectors fairly easy. Also, from past experiences, alot of tools are needed, or have access to, weird sizes and plenty of flex's and extensions. Silicone dielectric grease in the boot is a must also.

 

Sounds like your air metering is a little scued. Before getting into a plug change, try some simple maintenance first.

1.) Fill the tank or make sure it's above 3/4 full before you start - (IE -Slosh factor).

2.) Return to stock settings via pro-grammer.

3.) Confirm that stock setting are applied.

4.) Disconnect battery (both sides)

5.) If your using an oiled filter element (their hell on the MAF), clean that sensor correctly. Clean even if using a dry element. Make sure you dry w/compressed air (about 15 lbs) or canned air if applicable.

6.) Change fuel filter.

7.) Reboot the PCM. (Make your connections)

8.) Take a drive w/stock settings in place. (drive easy and smooth/about 20 miles or so.

9.) Apply your modified programmer settings.

Well , how does she run now ?

Note: The 3valves are picky around the MAF and air mettering. Performance and economy can suffer before you generate a fault code. I would try the easiest solutions first before digging into the plugs on that one. There's really know way to tell what shape their in. I would lean toward them being in satisfactory shape - The ExCal settings should create a better overall burn to say the least. I would rule out the plugs at this point . The injectors ? Hard saying, you do have the 05 and that's the worst year for injector problems. Look for the TSB, It might be free to flow/leak test @ the dealership. Or you can widdle it down to a possible injector problem yourself following the chart -




A tip - Use Sunoco 94 octane petrol if your programmed settings require 89 or above. We are finding it makes a difference.

Good Luck

 

Thanks guys,
and thank you Jbrew. Your info was more than I would have expected from someone. Your a real F150 enthusiast. It does seem smart to K.I.S.S.
I should replace the fuel filter first, and clean the MAFS. Your right about the K&Ns. And I haven't gotten to the point where I really want to mess with the plugs, just knowing how much trouble everyone has had removiing them. But I have heard its easier to get those suckers out before 40 or 50K without snappin em off inside. The TSB says spray em overnight and pull em cold, while others have had better luck removing em warm. Guess its luck of the draw. But either way I'm gonna do the easy part first and see what happens this weekend.
Thanks brothers!

 

Just to follow up;
I re-programmed my truck back to stock.
Cleaned the MAFS.
Pulled the terminal off the battery.
Replaced the fuel filter.
Drove the truck for 25 miles.
Re-programmed to custom tune.
Drove for 5 miles, then my check engine light came on.
Don't have any idea why.
Guess I'll try pullin the terminal again, and see if it
takes the light off for good.
Not sure what else to do, other than reprogram again
and see what happens. There is no reason why the
damn light should be coming on.

 

before you clear the cel you should get it read at autozone so you have an idea what caused it.

 

Yea, get it read first

Sears has that Actron on sale - $69 I believe. Their handy as hell.

WAIT A MINUTE! Don't you have a tuner? That should read the code for you??