All the studs are intact and so are the two studs that connect the manifold to the downpipe. I still have a huge exhaust tick. Do you think its worth it to remove the manifold, hoping no studs break, and replace the gaskets?

Drilling and tapping the passenger side was hard enough, let alone driver side I have to deal with brake lines and steering components.

 

yes, its worth it. its not that bad. you don't have to disconnect anything else, there is just more in the way. the only thing that might be a hassle is the engine oil dipstick tube. if possible, work around it, and do not disconnect it. it is a bitch to pull out and may snap.

 

You mean oil dipstick tube? Trans tube is on the passenger side

 

yes, you replied before i fixed my post. if it snaps, it is a bitch to get the broken portion out. when i removed my manifold, i fought and cursed the broken piece for half an hour before i got it out.

on an F-150 you don't have to disconnect brake lines/steering. i would assume the same on your 4WD Expy.

 

sorry, haha. This time I will use my 3/8 impact on the nuts, hoping they all stay intact and I wont have to replace any. Anybody know the torque spec on the exhuast studs? I'll also have help from Mr. Pb Blaster

 

you know the correct pattern for tightening, right. like this: 1x3x5x7x
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxx2x4x6xxx8

lemme look up the torque spec. gimme a min.

 

I actually do not know the pattern. I just cris-cross to pull evenly, is there a diagram, cause I do not know what studs are numbered what.

 

number 1 in my diagram would be the first one on the top left if you are looking at the manifold. number 2 would be diagonally down, then number 3 diagonally up and so forth. the spec on the studs is 89-115 in/lbs.
the spec on the nuts is 17-20 ft/lbs.
do you need me to post an actual illustration?

 

No thanks, I think I got it...


thanks for the spec!

 

if you torqued them in a different way on the other side, you may want to retorque them to the sequence i posted in order to prevent leaks.

 

I used bolts on the other side, but I planned to re-torque them to make sure there good n tight. thanks

 

i personally prefer bolts as well. if the spec seems odd or awkward w/o the studs, use your better judgement. i did not torque mine to that spec, and have not had any leaks in over a year. remember you are tightening into an aluminum head...

 

I know, I spent several hours drilling and tapping into pass side. very nerve racking. lol