just wondering if anyone had a good detailed guide on how to change cop's and plugs in a 01 5.4l

thanks

plan on getting global cops and motorcraft plugs

 

Yea, I guess our technical articles still aren't working on this site - I'm beginning to think they were forgotten

Anyway in your other thread, I told you to look Matts link up online since ours wasn't working - just to google it. For whatever reason, you haven't. I had a little time this morning and did it for you.

Here's Matts direct link, like I said before, it's a good one -

http://www.mattstruck.com/sparkplugs/sparkplugs.html

Good Luck

 

Matt's a little heavy with the anti seize. I would leave that part out.

 

I use anti-sieze, but just a coating, very light and it's done good so far- (knock knock on wood).

 

thats what i was gonna ask, you guys dont like anti-seize anymore?

 

Most don't use antisieze on the 97-03 models (I don't for 1), because, there was a problem with the plugs staying in the head.

Then Ford fixed the blow out problem with a plug that sometimes refuses to come out. 04-07 model 3v heads...

There is a wealth of info for that exact clarity on here. Just search it out...

 

Yeah, that's more than a little heavy! Anti-sieze - good. TOO MUCH Anti-sieze - not so good. Same goes with thread sealant, gasket sealant, thread adhesive, etc. There really is such a thing as TOO MUCH of a good thing.

 

Yea don't use anti seize on the 97 - 02 models. These plugs don't need any help coming back out the next time. There's only 3.5 -4 threads in the chambers. Be real careful not to cross thread (use a piece of 3/8 air hose to start and run the plugs flush) the threads .

Torque = 12 -16 foot lbs.

Huh - The Ford procedure says to remove the fuel rail completely - I didn't know that.

I just remove the 4 8mm bolts/ pull the rail off the injectors/ flip it up on the Intake Manifold - it's out of the way.

Some will say leave it attached - Go ahead, you can do it - But I bet it takes you longer - You'll see.

Good Luck

 

LOL! Could be something to do with common sense. I would bet money the techs at the stealership does it the exact same way, if they even take the rail off at all.

I know my four 6 doesn't require the rail to come off.

 

It's a PITA with rail on IMO - Only takes 5 minutes to get out of the way - You'll spend an extra 20 minutes working around it , or more when you loose a socket.

 

I unbolt the driver side rail. The regulator is in the way of #7. I use anti-seize on my plugs but I pull them out every 10k or so to look at them. Read sig for reason.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

PS. there is way too much anti-seize in that pic.

 

Yea , #7's a tricky bastid with the rail on. Almost impossible.