That data was printed from the Ford Engineers @ Daytona Speedway long ago in a Ford News letter

I've read it in detail a few times, but can't find the printing on the web. There's bit and pieces of it here and there on the net - tccoa has a little bit on it, but not much.

 

A friend of mine turned me on to chaging my own oil a few years ago. Especially on these larger trucks it's really easy. Takes me about 20 minutes. I see little reason to pay someone $40/hour to unscrew a drain pan plug and oil filter.

 

Changing the oil is easy for some folks. I know Galaxy has the remote system, I have the same one. Filters right there, left front pocket -

 

I agree! Years ago I had a 1991 Chevy K-1500 4x4! 5.7 350ci motor! When I started runnin Mobil-1 in it man did that think leak like a spaggetti strainer!........

 

If you are going to use a synthetic and an extended drain interval, it's not a bad idea to use a premium filter designed for it. The Mobil 1 filter is excellent, it's 2 stage. No matter what oil you use, if you are going to change the oil at "traditional" intervals, the standard Motorcraft filter is as good as any and better than a lot. It's also a lot cheaper than any of the high end filters.

Recommended oil change intervals these days are based more on a guess when the oil becomes too contaminated, not when it breaks down. It has been proven that a quality synthetic oil can be run in excess of 100k miles without a change *IF* it's kept analytically clean with a bypass filtration system. Most people would not want to mess with that, hence common sense should be used.

 

I have an old 93 chrysler concorde beater car that I drive to work because it gets 26.5 mpg. I used to use Mobil semi syn Drive Clean 7500. Can't find it anymore in Gilbert, AZ. So i changed to dino Mobil Drive Clean 5000. The only difference i have noticed is it leaks less oil with the dino.

 

I can't believe what im reading, this is SO funny!!, why would people think that they can go longer without oil changes if they use synthetic oil?
Let's pretend you use water instead of oil, you could pour whatever type of water you can find at cheapo-mart or use high end water, wich true, might have a better "taste" or have or lack different components that make it "purer" but reality is:

THEY BOTH WILL GET DIRTY AT EXACTLY THE SAME RATE!!!! PERIOD!!!

Use a well known type of oil and change it regularly and you will be fine, but if you wanna go 7k miles or 13k miles with the same oil just because it's synthetic go ahead, knock yourself out.

 

It's OK that some people are sooo set in their ways they'll never change...it's what makes the world go round! Oil getting dirty is only half the battle, if it's even that much. Breakdown and decrease in viscosity is the biggest concern. Dyno oils loose thier viscosity at a much increased rate over synthetics, which tend to uphold their rated viscosity index much better throughout the life of the oil...up to and including 10 and even 25k miles. I guess we need guys like you to keep all these engineer and chemist and professionals in line from blowing smoke up all our buts, hu Thanks for showing us the error of our ways. Very scientific analagy you made there too!!

You know what the really funny part of all this discussion is....the majority of guys who tend to run extend drain intervals on their synthetic oil have done it properly and had the oil analysis and test done to confirm the performance of synthetic oils...the majority of guys sticking to 3,000 mile dyno oil changes like it's the last beer on earth are doing so completely blind just because your dad did it that way.

 

Wrong. You clearly have no understanding of oil chemistry.

 

Its sad when so much data can easily be found to support the extended interval of synthetics. I have been doing 7-10k changes on my last 3 vehicles, one with almost 100k and never a single engine related problem.

 

I run my Mobil 1 EP with a Mobil 1 filter for 10k. When I was an Amsoil dealer, I ran the bypass setup and got over 60k out of my oil before analysis told me it was time for a change.

Tavo, do what you want - but do not try to tell us that we are wrong because there's enough unbiased documentation out there to prove that we are not wrong. If you want to use "regular" oil and a "regular" filter and change it every 3k, it's your vehicle and your money. I'm not saying that you are "wrong" - just that I choose to take a different approach. You are not hurting anything by doing it your way except increasing the amount of waste oil that has to be properly disposed of and/or recycled.

 

Good point. Years ago I eased into the service area and watched the guy changing my oil. As soon as the flow slowed down a little the guy shoved the drain plug up there and screwed it in. I told the guy at the counter I wasn't going to pay and might call the cops unless I saw them drain the pan completely. I never let anyone else touch my oil plug since then.

I use only one kind of oil - mobil 1. I use the best filter I can get, usually K&N. For my truck the change is under $40, and I try not to go over 6k miles, primarily because the filter is the concern, not the oil. Some people change the filter and top off the oil at 5k then do a full change at 10k. That is probably the best plan with full synthetic, but I'm kinda set in my ways.

If you want to use regular motor oil, do so because you want to do it, not because of the price because the price works out about the same ballpark if you do it yourself. Trucks are easiest of all to change. The little cars are the real challenge.