Picked up an "Actron"-It read ~

Old Jun 1, 2008 | 01:52 PM
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Picked up an "Actron"-It read ~

Well, had a CEL for a couple days, so I just picked up a scanner and it read this on vid -

http://picasaweb.google.com/jbrew393...69944717625362

Code set in order

P0153 Heated O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2, Sensor 1)
P1151 Lack Of HO2S21 Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean
P0136 Heated O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2)

Haven't had any problems w/the truck in a long time. I haven't really investigated the codes yet. I'm working on a Hot water heater right now lol. I'm fixing the truck after that that tho. Sooooo, looks like I might have an O2 problem here ehhh. ??

BTW - Not sure if it matters, but I got the MIL shortly after filling the tank.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Jun 1, 2008 at 02:09 PM.
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 03:00 PM
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All 3 are leaning toward a wiring problem and 151 could also be a exhaust leak. Good luck!
 
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 03:19 PM
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Hey what's up man - Yea, it has to be leaking Torkum, I mean I can freaking hear that it is intermittently. - This has been driving me nuts!!! - Where??? Mann, I've coated all the seams w/Permatex cooper - I'll hear it leaking , then right away check the seams to see WHERE the permatex seal has split. NOTHING!!....So, I even ran a bead of sealant (the best I could) around the header connection to the heads and around the 02 bungs. I again hear it leaking and check for a break in the bead... NOTHING!.

I'm getting to the point now of just pulling the headers and just going back to stock - sick of this sh^t, don't know what else to do. The truck is way to loud and annoying for my taste - it doesn't even sound good IMO.

I'll be happier than sh^t to get my exhaust sounding fairly quiet but good when accelerating. Right now it sounds like one with a crappy rusted out muffler on it and I put allot of time and $$ into this. It does have good power and torque tho - Idunno, not content that's for sure.
 

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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 03:30 PM
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UPDATE

Went to the party store - The CEL is off now ? WTF ?? I scanned it anyway and now have two codes instead of the 3 before -

PO153/PO1151 shows up w/KOEO and NO MIL illumination currently happening.

PO136 is no longer there. ??

I have a feeling it's my exhaust leak. Just have to find it .. I did purchase the triple aluminum manifold gaskets, in case the cheap Pacesetter gaskets went out. I haven't installed these yet. Damn , I really don't feel like tearing the exhaust off it again lol - CRAP!

Well, I have just enough cash to buy a cheap wire feed welder. Can anyone tell me the proper wire feed welder to purchase ? They have them under $200 @ the tractor supply in town. The one I was looking at has a dial that you can set in relation to metal thickness that's being worked on. Will this work alright? What wire do I need for exhaust ? Any (besides copper)? It's not stainless.
 

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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 03:51 PM
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set the park brake and put it in gear and listen for the leak under the truck. thats what i always did
 
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Faster150
set the park brake and put it in gear and listen for the leak under the truck. thats what i always did
Thanks fast -

Parking Brake? What's that ? - Oh , I turned that in at the scrap metal yard. I bet that was at least 30lbs. Parking brakes have short lifespans in Michigan - salt eats them right up on this model.

Anyway, yea I could block it and put it in gear but you can't hear the damn leak most of the time. I think I'll just put the snorkle fitting in the tailpipe and reduce down to a air chuck adaptor and regulate 10 lbs of compressed air thro the system and use Windex to detect the leak. That worked before -I'll give that a try.

Thanks for making me think of that fast
 

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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 07:01 PM
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I bought my son this one from Lowes I think for under 200.00 and it works great on exhaust. Its a Lincoln Handy Core that works with flux core or wire and gas.

 
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by torkum
I bought my son this one from Lowes I think for under 200.00 and it works great on exhaust. Its a Lincoln Handy Core that works with flux core or wire and gas.
Alright cool - Yea, that's what I'll aquire before I Re-do it up right. Without one of those , screwing with the exhaust is almost pointless. Even those good band clamps can leak Learned many lessons on what not to do with exhaust systems...- Paid for it too..

Thanks buddy
 
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 02:14 AM
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yeah band clamps like to leak when your on the gas. jbrew, with the method i think you used to do your exhaust and the notation of the "split" permetex. i would assume in that area your weld splits under pressure and re-seals via no pressure from engine torquing over? u did say ur method of welding was torch of some kind and coat hangers? what kind of torch?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Klitch
yeah band clamps like to leak when your on the gas. jbrew, with the method i think you used to do your exhaust and the notation of the "split" permetex. i would assume in that area your weld splits under pressure and re-seals via no pressure from engine torquing over? u did say ur method of welding was torch of some kind and coat hangers? what kind of torch?
MAPP GAS - Yea , used thin coat hangers as a a filler. Actually, those seams aren't leaking. I went over them w/brass filler , then re-clamped using "chopped" connecting rods + caps from a 3.8L.

The more I think about it - I bet it's leaking at the heads. - Theres just NO signs of leakage. When I hear it - it's from the front somewhere.

Klitch - The manifold gaskets via Pacesetter are the "white" paper type gaskets. These may be the whole problem. Usually when (if) it leaks at the head, there would be signs (carbon). But damn, it looks good around the heads from what I can see without taking sh^t apart. That's what's been holding back from replacing gaskets at this point.

Gaskets (web album link) -

http://picasaweb.google.com/jbrew393...93151827686066
 
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 12:24 PM
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hum. my OBX kit supplied a slightly different style gasket, it was steel on 2 sides and some sort of white material inside. maybe its asbestos lol
 
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 07:29 PM
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asbestos FTW
 
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Klitch
hum. my OBX kit supplied a slightly different style gasket, it was steel on 2 sides and some sort of white material inside. maybe its asbestos lol

Like an OREO ?



 
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 10:31 PM
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Maybe Oreos will work better than whatever you've been using...........
 
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jbrew
UPDATE

Went to the party store - The CEL is off now ? WTF ?? I scanned it anyway and now have two codes instead of the 3 before
Hey Brew, did you erase the codes w/ the scanner ? If not, the pcm will reset itself after it does a self diagnostic and clear the code by itself. I learned this using my Equus scanner. Sometimes, from what I have learned, there is enough there to cause a pending code(s) but not enough to throw the MIL/CEL on.
I bought the upgraded version of Equus so I could do live data testing, I don't think the MINI-Actron you have will do that. I was close to buying the full version Actron which would have giving you the live data, which would have allowed you to moniter your O2 sensor's etc. I bought the Equus only because it had much better user reviews, they both work the same tho.

Technical DescriptionLack of HO2S-21 Switch, Sensor Indicates Lean

What does that mean?A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.

SymptomsYou will likely not notice any drivability problems.

CausesA code P1151 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

Electrical:
Short to VPWR in the harness or HO2S
Water in the harness connector
Open/shorted HO2S circuit
Corrosion or poor mating terminals and wiring
Damaged HO2S
Damaged PCM
Fuel System:
Excessive fuel pressure
Leaking/contaminated fuel injectors
Leaking fuel pressure regulator
Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel
Vapor recovery system
Induction System:
Air leaks after the MAF
Vacuum Leaks
PCV system:
Improperly seated engine oil dipstick
EGR System:
Leaking gasket
Stuck EGR valve
Leaking diaphragm or EVR
Base Engine:
Oil overfill
Cam Timing
Cylinder compression
Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2S(s)
Possible SolutionsSee the above list of causes and go from there.
Sources: MotorCraftService.com

Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank2, Sensor1)

What does that mean?This involves the oxygen sensor upstream the catalytic converter on Bank 2. This code indicates the engine air fuel ratio is not being adjusted by the oxygen sensor signal or the ECM as expected to do so, or not adjusted as often as expected to do so once the engine is warmed or under normal engine use.


SymptomsYou will likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms.

CausesA code P0153 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

The oxygen sensor is faulty
The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed
There is an exhaust leak
Possible SolutionsThings that may fix the problem include:

Check and fix any exhaust leaks
Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
Check the frequency and amplitude of the oxygen sensor (advanced)
Check for a deteriorating / contaminated oxygen sensor, replace if necessary
Check for inlet air leaks
Check the MAF sensor for proper operation
Replace the Bank 2 oxygen sensor upstream of the catalytic converter
Related P0153 forum topicsRepeat p1151, p1152, & p0153 on 96 Ranger.
98 mazda b4000-p0153
98 Ford Ranger With Code P0153 Questions
Code P0153, P0171, and P0174 on a 1998 Mazda B4000 v6
1997 Ford Ranger Codes P0153, P0171,P0172,P0401,P1443,P0302
P0153 98 Ford E250 v6 4.2L
mystique p0153 p0305


PO153/PO1151 shows up w/KOEO and NO MIL illumination currently happening.

PO136 is no longer there. ??

I have a feeling it's my exhaust leak. Just have to find it .. I did purchase the triple aluminum manifold gaskets, in case the cheap Pacesetter gaskets went out. I haven't installed these yet. Damn , I really don't feel like tearing the exhaust off it again lol - CRAP!

Well, I have just enough cash to buy a cheap wire feed welder. Can anyone tell me the proper wire feed welder to purchase ? They have them under $200 @ the tractor supply in town. The one I was looking at has a dial that you can set in relation to metal thickness that's being worked on. Will this work alright? What wire do I need for exhaust ? Any (besides copper)? It's not stainless.

Hope this helps, you have been a big help to me in the past, Thanks, TJK
 
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