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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 01:42 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by tjk_in_cny
Hope this helps, you have been a big help to me in the past, Thanks, TJK


Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank2, Sensor1)

What does that mean?This involves the oxygen sensor upstream the catalytic converter on Bank 2. This code indicates the engine air fuel ratio is not being adjusted by the oxygen sensor signal or the ECM as expected to do so, or not adjusted as often as expected to do so once the engine is warmed or under normal engine use.
Slow switching from open loop. IMO, the rear sensors should report a leak from the 'Y" forward. I'm getting a little hissing from the engine compartment, but I'll be damned if I can find it. Hoses, vacuum harness is new. I'm going to remove the belt real quick to see if that helps with discovery after I pressure check the exhaust / Haven't had a chance to work on it yet . Just here and there . Thanks for all the ideas and info, yea that helps

Maybe I did erase the codes ? I don't think so, it's possible. The engine light is back on - it sucks because I need to work the truck, it's been pulling heavy all week, but I'm almost done with it. I'll be able to tear it apart this weekend.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 01:49 PM
  #17  
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From: MI
Originally Posted by glc
Maybe Oreos will work better than whatever you've been using...........
- Maybe! I dunno if the gaskets are leaking yet. I'll find out eventually.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 07:49 PM
  #18  
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Gaskets are fine. EGR pipe good- No leaks. Under 12 lbs of compressed air I found a split in the Y (Close to the branch by the factory clamp) . Bank 1S2 bung has a very small leak. Bank 1 header -reducer (3x2.5) from the collector to the HF converter is leaking - (didn't weld those).

At least I don't have to replace the gaskets, I might just do it anyway. I used my factory Y with this set up as well.

Did a half a$$ job on the damn thing too / I'm gonna fix that - I should have replaced everything
 

Last edited by jbrew; Jun 3, 2008 at 07:55 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 09:20 PM
  #19  
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... wow, im happy if my exhaust is louder out the back and only has one or 2 small exhaust leaks after my upstreams... after those i dont give a hoot.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 10:14 AM
  #20  
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I've never heard of pressurizing the exhaust with compressed air before. Sounds simple and effective. I assume you have to plug the intake.

How do you plug off the intake and tailpipe so you can pressurerize it? Jrew, you gotta have pictures right
 
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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 12:06 PM
  #21  
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You don't plug anything up, unless your systems on the bench - Pressurize might be the wrong word - "Regulate" - I regulate 10-15 lbs. of air thru the TP . Some people have used a shop vac in "blower mode" for this, but I don't like forcing that much air into it on the truck.

Well, this is embarrassing - Brain Fart Movement - The EGR to Header IS indeed leaking - Like a stuffed pig and was hand tight. I can't believe I never tightened or tested that. I pulled the wheel well, thru some "SNOOP" (gas leak detector) on the connection and it blew some monster bubbles. Damn , this thing prolly hasn't run right since I did the exhaust... Me and exhaust systems don't get along very well. I don't know which I hate messing with worse - Body work or Exhaust. ... Neither would be all that bad with the RIGHT tools...

Torkum - Found that Handy Core Welder @ Sears, they want $270 for it. - I guess there good up to 1/8" steel.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Jun 4, 2008 at 12:56 PM.
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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 12:49 PM
  #22  
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From: Alabama
I'm interested in knowing why you are heating hot water?

Didn't McDonalds get into some litigation over that?

WRT your truck, maybe some mud finally broke loose.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 01:09 PM
  #23  
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My old EGR nipple from the stock exhaust to the left - Came out in 3 pieces lol. My replacement on the right. The replacement would have worked if I just tightened the damn thing down


 

Last edited by jbrew; Jun 4, 2008 at 01:17 PM.
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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 01:11 PM
  #24  
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From: MI
Originally Posted by jward
I'm interested in knowing why you are heating hot water?

Didn't McDonalds get into some litigation over that?

WRT your truck, maybe some mud finally broke loose.
We use hot water heaters in Michigan to heat water.

Mud ? What mud ? Theres not a spec of mud on this truck.

Yea and McDonald's paid that chick like 2 million ..

BTW - What does this have to do w/f150 engines???
 

Last edited by jbrew; Jun 4, 2008 at 01:22 PM.
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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 01:18 PM
  #25  
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How about your homes?

Hot heat pumps?

Sorry, back to your regularly scheduled thread.

 
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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 01:24 PM
  #26  
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Oh!

Ok
 
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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 01:27 PM
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over my head.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 01:33 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Klitch
over my head.

You would have to read the first page again
 
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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 01:41 PM
  #29  
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So I gather if a welder is rated 25 guage - 1/8" steel - That it will not penetrate anything over 1/8" correct ? Therefore, I cannot weld any two metals together exceeding that thickness and get the proper penetration.??? - I took a welding class long ago , trying to recall how that all works before I f^ck sh^t up.

Also , before I weld, should I pull all the fuses in the truck ?
 

Last edited by jbrew; Jun 4, 2008 at 01:44 PM.
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