well when it started acting up aand i parked it i took out the battery so would that have done it

 

Yea , that did it. It might take 3 or 4 drive cycles now. Misfires won't take long. If the light blinks then shuts off = Code stored as far as misfiring. If you have Primary or Secondary failure - That should set code right away. If you push the motor when it's acting up , your chances increase as far as setting a fault code.

Disconnect reader during drive cycle at first , just so there isn't any adverse effect to comp producing codes while reader is attached- you never know..

Disconnect your device/ Drive Cycle/ When MIL is illuminated/Plug in device/Retrieve, via scan.

BTW - Malfunction Indicator Lamp = "MIL" = Check Engine Light = "CEL"

 

tried driving around my yard for 4 tours of about 5min each truck just wont go in fact it goes faster if i dont touch the accl but it drops off so badly it has not stalled yet but it has come so close its not funny but i guess im s.o.l until i can get it to throw a trouble code

 

This a new one on me - I'm lost as well - What did you do to that thing lol.

You need to test your sensor voltages - fuel pressure/ regulator tests/ TPS/MAF - compression test / the PCM may be fried - etc etc etc...

There's no telling now - the codes were erased . Sometimes - these trucks have a bad reaction to plugs other than Motorcraft - That happened to me once. You may have jumped a tooth in timing as well .. Maybe the plug wires are wrong.

You might want to venture to the dealer and let them at least tell you what's wrong with it - Go to the "Ford" dealer for sure and let a tech find out what it is. Something like this shouldn't take long for them.

Good Luck.

 

well tomorrow im going to hit harbour freight tools and pick up a vacuum tester and a fuel pressure gauge and see if i can at least get it going enough to at least hit 25mph long enough to get it throw codes. can anyone tell what the pressure shoul be?

 

Pickup a Haynes or Chiltons service manual - That will have that info in there - Good to have , you'll see when you get one.



If somethings not in there you need , then ask here for sure and some-one will know.

You might just have a really plugged fuel filter.

 

changed it twice when this first happened and a buddy of mine brought his borescope over and the tank looked very clean but while im out ill prob pick up the book and another filter and see what happens

 

From the manual:
Your fuel pressure should read 30-45 psi at idle.
After 5 mins, fuel system hold pressure = 30-40 psi

Can't wait to hear what you find wrong with your truck, sounds pretty messed up. Good luck and keep us posted.
The vacuum tester is a good idea. I wouldn't just put new lines in unless you test them. I just tested mine and all were good.
Have a feeling you don't have a vacuum line problem with the problems your having.


BTW: what scanner tool did you buy.

 

elm scan 5 from scantool.net the free software that came with it is not to impressive but im sure if i look around awhile ill something thatll work
just got back from hft so im going to get cracking on it soon and see what i can find out and thank you jbrew ive been thinking it was timing all but nobody else seems to think that could be the case oh well i guess if i chase down the vac and test the fuel theres not much left that it can be the truck has 205000+on it to me the timing chain should be one of the first things. doesnt it have plastic tensioners?

 

ok heres what i have right now there is a parasitic drain on the vac system all the lines are ok but the evap thingy on the firewall just does not hold, is this normal? and my fuel pressure at the port on the rail is 13-15 psi so i guess i get to go tank diving to change it yea

ok just double checked myself and went a little old school seperated the air cleaner halves started truck and while at a rough idle i sprayed a little carb cleaner and VROOM smothed right out rolled up the throttle it started choking a little spray and right up she came so i am pretty sure its the fuel pump and im going to replace it the screen and i think there is a pressure regulator withthis system? if there is ill prob change that to

 

That would explain it perfectly. My first pump went @ 90,000 miles- Still on the second @ 270,000 miles. Regulator is right on the fuel rail (Drivers side) - RED vac line should be attached to it. That testing is explained in the Haynes and Chilton's manuals. You can pinch test it , but it's better with a vac apply device - there cheap.

Timing chains should last the lifetime of the vehicle nowadays - If you thru a plastic guide and/or the tensioner , your would hear that @ idle. click click click click click.........and so on..

 

well i have a hand vac pump but the three auto zones i stopped at today did not have the manual in stock soooo if you could explain how to test the reg i would very much appreciate it it would save me another 45$ if the reg is ok

 

Can't find one , that sucks. Well heres this -


From the manual -

@ idle 30-45 psi

@ idle w/vacuum hose detached 40-50 psi

Hold pressure/key off/after 5 minutes 30-40 psi

System MAX = 65 psi
_______________________________________________

Regulator -

Connect a hand held vacuum pump to the regulator and read fuel pressure w/vacuum applied. Pressure should decease as vacuum is increased.

Detach the vacuum line from the regulator and verify vacuum is present when the engine is running.

 

way cool thank you its getting a little dark out right now so ill start back up on this first thing in the morning i should be able to get a book by the end of next week (closest store said they would hold one for me when it comes in) i live in AZ and i think we have the most f-150s per capita than any other state except maybe Texas, so sometimes i have to wait for parts

 

Just click on my camera (upper right hand corner) for diagrams and engine work pics I have done in the past. They may help you out in the furture