Brandon, we have quite a few members here who have installed E-fans, and they generally work fine, as long as they are properly installed with proper supporting components (relays, controllers, wiring, etc.). This not only cuts the noise down, they cool BETTER at idle than the mechanical fan and generally show a performance and gas mileage increase.

 

Having the fan blow all the time is fine, hurts nothing, if anything keeps the alt cool and p/s fluid resevoir cool too. Sometimes it will come on full, but change to e-fans for performance, you do get a bit, as well as mpg's, 1-2 maybe and colder a/c, very noticed. I got the FAL 270 kit when it was 400 bux and it's worked flawless. I've only had to better my installing, as one wire was exposed a bit and fried the connector. New connector and shrink wrap, problem solved, dielectric grease on the things too. See my gallery for pics.

 

Here ya go:

Fan from ebay skipwhite performance was the seller $100 for both fans, bought a temp controller from autozone for $17 wired it to one fan, the other fan is on/off with a manual switch, and so is the temp controlled one so I can kick both on if the truck is not getting sufficiently cooled according to my autometer water temp gauge or if i have the A/C on.

The biggest gains I have noticed is, colder A/C, faster warmup, better mileage (1-2 MPG gain) and better throttle response.

 

My problem is not that the engine is getting hot... actually the temp gauge never goes more that half, the problem is the noise from the fan and the low MPG's, I had compare my truck with similar ones from different owners and none of them seem to have the same issue, I have described that I changed almost all on the cooling system and I still get the same result, that's the reason I'm looking for options

:o

 

This guy from Yukon, OK is telling us if the fan keeps running after the engine is shutoff the water pump will wear out......... HA, that's a good one!!!! "The clutch is to stop the fan when the engine stops." HA, another good one!!!! Did this guy say he was/is a Ford mechanic????

The clutch fan originally was designed to draw air through the radiator ONLY when cooling was required, via radiator temperature heating the bi-metal coil spring within the fan clutch assembly, which heated to a specific temperature, would provide a direct hook-up to the water pump. If you can easily spin the fan when the engine is at operating temperature, the clutch is gone.

 

Thats how I was under the impression it worked longjohn. Its basically a thermostat, hotter the engine, hotter the clutch, more air it will call for the fan to move thus making the fan spin faster.

joel, yeah that is anotsher thing I forgot to mention, the engine is REALLY quiet without the mech. fan on there! Makes it easier to pinpoint noises, find leaks, etc. Also, hear your induction and exhaust ALOT better too!

 

here is the Ford shop manual on cooling system, might help with some questions about fan operation.

Ed




SECTION 303-03A: Engine Cooling 2002 F-150 Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Procedure revision date: 03/12/2002

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Engine Cooling
Gasoline and NGV

CAUTION: Some vehicle cooling systems are filled with Motorcraft Premium Engine Coolant VC-4-A (in Oregon VC-5, in Canada CXC-10) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A (green color). Others are filled with Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant VC-7-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Always fill the cooling system with the same coolant that is present in the system. Do not mix coolant types.

NOTE: The addition of Motorcraft Cooling System Stop Leak Pellets, VC-6, darkens Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant from yellow to golden tan.

The cooling system components are:

block heater
fan blade
fan clutch
fan shroud
radiator
radiator cap
degas bottle
radiator drain****
water temperature indicator sender unit
water thermostat and gasket assembly (4.2L)
water thermostat (4.6L, 5.4L)
upper radiator hose
lower radiator hose
The water pump circulates the coolant.

The water thermostat:

controls coolant temperature.
allows quicker engine warm-up.
The degas bottle:

holds surplus coolant when hot.
de-aerates the system reducing engine hot spots.
is the location for service fill.
allows coolant expansion and system pressurization [110 kPa (16 psi)].
is the air separation during operation.
replenishes coolant to system.
The fan blade draws air through the radiator to help cool the system coolant.

The fan clutch is a thermostatically controlled clutch that controls the fan speed.

The radiator cannot be serviced. Install a new radiator.
The radiator allows excess heat to be transferred to the air.
The engine coolant flows:

from the lower radiator hose to the water pump.
from the water pump to the engine block and the cylinder heads.
thermostat closed, the coolant returns to the water pump.
thermostat open, the coolant flows back to the radiator.
to the radiator for heat rejection then back to the lower radiator hose.
CAUTION: Engine coolant provides freeze protection, boil protection, cooling efficiency and corrosion protection to the engine and cooling components. In order to obtain these protections, the engine coolant must be maintained at the correct concentration and fluid level in the degas bottle.

NOTE: The addition of Motorcraft Cooling System Stop Leak Pellets, VC-6, darkens Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant from yellow to golden tan.

When adding engine coolant, use a 50/50 mixture of engine coolant and clean, drinkable water.

To maintain the integrity of the coolant and the cooling system:

Add Motorcraft Premium Engine Coolant VC-4-A (in Oregon VC-5, in Canada CXC-10) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A (green color), or Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant VC-7-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Use the same coolant that was drained from the cooling system. Do not mix coolant types.
Do not add/mix orange-colored Motorcraft Speciality Orange Engine Coolant VC-2 or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D. Mixing coolants may degrade the coolant's corrosion protection.
Do not add alcohol, methanol, or brine, or any engine coolants mixed with alcohol or methanol antifreeze. These can cause engine damage from overheating or freezing.
Do not mix with recycled coolant unless it meets the requirements of Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A or WSS-M97B51-A1. Not all coolant recycling processes meet these Ford specifications. Use of such coolants can harm the engine and cooling system components.

 

when engine is off, the fan is tight to move, so I will say that the clutch is working fine, (not loose) what I have notice is that is anaged all the time (cold or hot engine)

 

BS, Ford uses electric fans on the same engines in the Crown vics and a few other cars.

 

Agree with you Norm.. that's the reason I got the idea

 

Right on Norm, maybe brandonhadnotgotthememo! :-D

joel, if your fan seems to be engaged all of the time the engine is running the clutch is probably gone, it should turn, with some effort with the engine off. If you can't turn it or turn it with a large amount of force, its toasted.

 

first install dual fans 1 start at x temp 2 fan start at a/c on or over x temp
i dont know if i had cruise working or not took to ford after sct etc could not stop them from plugging in ford cpu truck return off test drive over hot burning wires toastetc etc
wire fan direct to battery and went to garage
second install 1 fans starts on engine running and 2nd fan startx at a/c or temp over x . did i see something on on off clutch fan could this be why the diff still no cruise kinda stuck what could be tun on or off by ford when this happen we had to go back to stock and then reload the fmc cpu toook over somethings i guess if you could help me find the chapter in my school book i will give my crayons sou can color grin B-) good to laugh here ok thats enought ttl don

 

Troyer Performance Dual 16" Electric Fan Kit for 1997-2003 Ford F-series, 1997-2002 Expedition & 1997-2002 SuperDuty

This is the rugged Troyer Performance Electric Fan Kit updated with our new custom-fabricated mounting brackets that everyone's raving about for the 1997-2003 Ford F-150's, 1997-2002 Expedition's & 1997-2003 F-250 Light Duty's with any engine. Also works on 1997-2002 Ford SuperDuty trucks with gas engines (also for 2004 "Heritage" model F-150's). Click for all the details!

Item #: PPI-EFK $425.00



This kit includes a pair of our heaviest-duty 16" Electric Fans for rugged long-term durability. Each fan has it's own fully integrated shroud that completely encloses the reverse-S shaped fan blades to prevent potential injury from putting your hands in the wrong place, etc. These fans mount to our new custom fabricated mounting brackets and then drop in and attach to your radiator as an assembly, making for a much easier & quicker installation! This kit eliminates the need for the restrictive factory fan shroud, which in turn also frees up a significant amount of additional room under the hood, allowing vastly increased underhood airflow, lowering inlet air temperatures for further power gains, especially in warmer weather.

This kit is set up in the same basic manner as in high-end automobiles such as Mercedes, Corvette, etc. The configuration is designed for a "Low Temperature" fan and a "High Temperature" fan in a "staggered" turn-on arrangement to provide proper cooling under any conditions and to keep the start-up amperage draw on your vehicle's electrical system to a minimum. Because of that, this kit can be used even if you do not have the optional 130 amp alternator, and even if you have underdrive pulleys! In fact, most of our customers using this fan kit are also using our Underdrive Pulleys as well, to pick up every bit of power possible from reducing "parasitic" losses.

Power gains from this kit run anywhere from a low of 15 HP to as much as 20 HP at the rear wheels, and throttle response is improved *everywhere* - at any speed, at any rpm, and at any throttle position, thanks to completely eliminating the parasitic loss from the heavy weight of the factory mechanical fan. And since the engine is no longer having to turn that heavy mass of the factory mechanical fan, you will also see some mpg improvements as well. MPG gains typically range anywhere from a low of about 1.0 mpg to as much as 2.5 more mpg in these vehicles!

This system provides a total of almost 6000 CFM's, more than enough to support the cooling needs of a 750+ HP supercharged engine operating in desert climates!

IMPORTANT NOTES:

1.) We have reconfigured this kit to include our new custom-fabricated fan mounting brackets, additional hardware, connectors, terminals, zip-ties, etc. We also now include high-temperature rated (above 300 degrees!) split-loom tubing that is impervious to engine oil, antifreeze, etc., to cover the insulated color-coded wiring harnesses for a factory-installed finished appearance!

2.) Gasoline engines make their absolute highest power output and get the best fuel mileage when the engine coolant temperature is in the 200-210 degree range. Accordingly, we recommend using a 192 degree thermostat (just like your original factory thermostat is rated for). If you are doing any kind racing, or if you need to tow heavy loads in hot weather, etc., and want to drop down to a 180 degree thermostat, that is fine. You can set the turn-on temps accordingly as described in our installation instructions - you have that additionally flexibility already built into this kit. DO NOT use any thermostat rated lower than 180 degrees in these computer-controlled vehicles, whether you have electric fans or not, or you will not make the best power & fuel mileage, and may even experience driveability symptoms, MIL lights on the dash & loss of heater function in cold weather, etc.

3.) This fan kit does not require a professional mechanic to install, but it DOES require someone with solid underhood & some light wiring experience to do this properly - we mention this so that people will understand that this is not for the novice, that it does take some general automotive knowledge & experience underhood and doing wiring work properly.

Price: $425.00

 

Huh?