The OP asked:

The response he got...

So the OP replied...

I think that I am on the money about how you felt...Am I wrong. There are those on here that would like to welcome you, and direct you to where the info is on this question that you posed.

 

I can see why he got offended, this is pretty A-hole looking. But guys, try to not argue and de-rail his thread. He has a genuine problem and needs help.

 

I am not accusing Riser of being a smartass... His reply came off that way. When I joined, I was so scared to Post a question. I was not Dave99g...

I did get a rize outa Fordtech... but c'mon, that was funny

 

rotunda tool

 

Thats what I am doing (trying to help)... I even posted earlier

The search engine at the top IS NOT the most effective tool to find info. I spent a few minutes to try abd help a new member... and did not find anything. Because the guy chzweiner is new, I think he got a little frustrated when he saw the smilie...and was probably insulted. I make a joke about someone brown nosing, and everyone gets into a tissy. When there are newbies present, and seeking guidance, should we not go to a little more lengths to make them feel welcome? Am I an assclown for thinking such thoughts?

Enlighten me...I want to help this guy. Hell, teach me to do the advance search, and I will do it for the guy.

 

And knowing that risupercrewman was with good intent just trying to direct the guy in the right direction "Thanks, idiot" is way out of line..........

Your response was of no value to the OP either so what's the point?

 

Yall are cracking me up...... Bubbajoe28, I'm still laughing at your comment. Now that's humor........
It's comical that people come on this site and post a thread like this, joining real quick and throwing up a post that has and is currently being beat to death b/c of all the problems and concerns. I feel for people who really don't know about it and try and crank them out in the backyard without any knowledge of what's going on. Then again, it's hard not to crack on a post like this, being most members on here have a general idea of what's been going on and the methods to minimize and help solve broken plugs on the 5.4 3v engine. We had better get use to hearing from people who come on this site clueless about these plugs b/c it's going to get more and more common.

Frozen weiner, dam- that was a good one though......

 

Uh...you are part of the problem.

Standing up for Riser?

So, I make a reply to you, and you resort to cursing and making offensive comments?

 

So whats the link, and lets move forward? "Cant we all just get along?"

 

If the shoe fits...

Where is the link to unstick the boogers?

 

A little info I found to help out the OP:

If, despite your careful efforts, one or more spark plugs still break off during removal, all hope is not lost. The Ford TSB (06-15-2) that Terry mentioned covers the full procedure for removing broken spark plug pieces. We don't have the space to cover the entire removal procedure here, so we'll hit the highlights instead.

When a plug breaks, it may take all of the insulator with it, or a portion may remain behind inside the ground electrode shield. All of the insulator must be removed first, before removing the empty shell of the ground electrode shield. If there's enough to grab on to, use long-reach needle-nose pliers to remove the insulator. More soaking may be required.

If the insulator has broken off flush with the ground electrode shield, as it did for Terry, purchase a drill bit that's designed for glass, ceramic, concrete, etc. Add a 6-in. drill extension and a right-angle drill, then slowly drill out the insulator. A sharp punch can be used to break the insulator into pieces, but try to keep any of the debris from entering the combustion chamber. Vacuum the area around the ground electrode shield when you're done.

The next step involves a special tool (Rotunda Special Service Tool 303-1203) that threads into the ground electrode shield, then pulls it out of the head. This tool is available in the aftermarket as well through OTC. The inside bore of the ground electrode shield must be tapped first, before the special tool can do its thing. As before, a steady approach will give you the best chance of success. If you need any extra motivation, just keep telling yourself, “I don't want to remove those cylinder heads.”

When you're ready to install the new spark plugs, apply a film coating of high-temperature nickel antiseize lubricant (Motorcraft XL-2) to the ground electrode shield. Coating the electrode strap may cause a misfire. Do not apply lubricant to the threads and torque the plugs to 25 ft.-lbs. Thankfully, Ford changed the spark plug bore diameter slightly on later models, so this routine shouldn't be necessary on them.

 

^^^If posted earlier, many egos would have not suffered...

 

Your reply .....


Geez guy, I'm not offended in the least bit...sorrry 'bout that..........

In the search box type " SPARK PLUG", you would be amazed at what comes up...go ahead try it, really...no kidding......

 

Can we all agree that this post was funny as hell?
It made me laugh

 

And that was not funny?