Sorry if I missed an earlier post on this but Did you know all oil has been reformulated. This is off the Mobil 1 site and from what I understand its with all brands. If anyone wants to know where to get an additive to replace the phosphorus just leave a reply and I will get the info.

Question:
Has Zinc Been Removed from Motor Oils?
I am having thrust bearing failure in a 4.6 modified performance engine. This is a street/strip engine. Many of my friends are having the same problem. I think it is the result of the removal of zinc from the oil. I was told by two separate racing engine builders that the EPA ordered the removal of the zinc from over-the-counter motor oil. I use Mobil 1 5W-20. Is this true and do you think a zinc additive might help?
-- Randy Lovejoy, Americas, GA

Answer:
The active ingredient that you are talking about is phosphorus which is added thru a component called ZDDP. For products that meet the new ILSAC GF-4 specification the phosphorus levels for the oil must be less than 800 ppm phosphorus. The ILSAC level for phosphorus has been reduced to protect the catalytic converter and other emission protection equipment. The engine manufacturers are confident that this level of phosphorus will protect both new and older engines. However, there are Mobil 1 products which have a higher level of phosphorus (phos) and can be used in engines in racing or high performance applications.

 

The reformulating you post about has been going on for the last ten years plus. The ZDDP, as the answer noted, has been in use in motor oils since the end of WWII. It was a cheap and easy fix for getting more miles out of an engine. While there are other additves that can take it's place in a common street engine, there isn't really one for a high performance engine. I would suggest looking to Amsoil ASM or any of their other PAO basestocked oils. These oils will have the ZDDP that an OTC oil won't have. That's the number one reason that most of Amsoils oils are not API certified- too much ZDDP. But it also lets them get away with the slimmy advertizing that says that their oils exceeds API standards which is why it isn't API certified. There are additives like CD Street Leagl Oil Boost and GM has a high performance engine oil additve that will cure the issue but using the Amsoil puts the formulation in balance. It wasn't that long ago that you could have used a dual rated oil like Rotella but with the newer API specs and the low sulphur fuels, those oils are also under going a reduction of ZDDP. Amsoil, for now, is your best bet but be aware that Amsoil is going to start having problems getting the PAO basestocks and they will also be reformulating. My guess is by the end of the year. FWIW, Royal Purple will not have the extra ZDDP either.

 

I know every few years it is changed but from what I understand this is recent. Just more FYI. This really effects me more at work with the boss and his air cooled engines.

 

You can buy it on E-bay and add it to any oil. Really only older engines are affected especially solid flat tappet overhead camshafts. Get it here
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6-Zdd...em310032078386

 

Thank's for the info it's a little cheaper than the aviation additive I am using and its basicly the same product.

 

None of their product ads claim to exceed the current spec except the products that actually do, the XL (not a PAO). If you check the ads they are very clear about which specs each product meets. Nothing slimy there.

 

Most engine builder used to say to use GM's EOS (engine oil suplament) but GM was forced to pull it last year by the EPA.
Most oils labled "RACING" still have ZDDP for now, but you will not find it in the thiner 5w-20.

44

 

http://www.sfrcorp.com/product/9

It's about as concentrated a source of sulfur, phosphorous, and ZDDP as you can get. Add it to just about any lubricant that doesn't require friction (like an automatic transmission)

 

I would bet you and your friends are victums of converter ballooning not of oil failure.
For that kind of abuse you need a special converter with anti ballooning plate installed.
What happens is under the tremendous hydraulic forces generated within from drag racing a heavy truck, the converter tries to grow in the horizontal direction and pushes on the crank as well as the bearing assembly in the transmission.
Both are subject to failure under those conditions.
The crank only has one main bearing edge about 1/2" or less in width to take all the pressure from the crank's forward forced movment as the only bearing surface there is to hold the crank in place and was never meant to take that much.

 

stick with SWEPCO... no problems there, and plenty of Zinc