Problem
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
From: North Port, FL
Originally Posted by ozzy86
no check engine light before during or after the shaking.
so with everyone pointing towards the cops how hard it is to replace. and how expensive is it?
so with everyone pointing towards the cops how hard it is to replace. and how expensive is it?
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 25,641
Likes: 19
From: MI
Originally Posted by Thomas_W
took me about 30 minutes to do all 8..
30 minutes
Damn, I can't even do it in 30 minutes - not right anyway. Dealership charges 2.9 hours according to ALLData/Oasis.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
From: North Port, FL
Originally Posted by jbrew
30 minutes
Damn, I can't even do it in 30 minutes - not right anyway. Dealership charges 2.9 hours according to ALLData/Oasis.
Damn, I can't even do it in 30 minutes - not right anyway. Dealership charges 2.9 hours according to ALLData/Oasis.
there's priviledges of being a ford tech for 3 years
for the first timer... probly 3 hours. lol and lots of beer and cussing
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
I wonder if one or more of your forward most O2 sensors have went bad. The rear two are emissions related only, and as far as I know will not effect how your engine runs. What I can not understand is how you don't have a "check engine" light yet.
Something folks sometimes forget is that a modern fuel injected engine runs under different conditions when hot and cold. When the engine is cold, the O2 sensors are worthless...so the engine computer ignores them, perhaps other sensors as well, and runs in what is called "open loop," meaning default settings are used to run the engine rather than real-time sensor readings. Once the engine warms up, it switches to "closed loop," which simply means that adjustments are made from the sensor inputs...provided they are giving readings that are within a reasonable range of values.
Regardless, I have to wonder if your problem has something to do with open loop/closed loop operation, since it appears to be engine temperature related. Unfortnately, the only good way to verify this is with an engine scan tool. A scan tool can show you what all the sensors are reading in real-time, and when they are being acknowledged by the engine controller. Anyone can buy a scan tool...but one like I am describing is similar to what the dealerships have, and expensive. I think it would be worth your time and money to eat the $75 or so for a professional diagnostic by a certified repair shop.
Just my two cents,
Mike
Something folks sometimes forget is that a modern fuel injected engine runs under different conditions when hot and cold. When the engine is cold, the O2 sensors are worthless...so the engine computer ignores them, perhaps other sensors as well, and runs in what is called "open loop," meaning default settings are used to run the engine rather than real-time sensor readings. Once the engine warms up, it switches to "closed loop," which simply means that adjustments are made from the sensor inputs...provided they are giving readings that are within a reasonable range of values.
Regardless, I have to wonder if your problem has something to do with open loop/closed loop operation, since it appears to be engine temperature related. Unfortnately, the only good way to verify this is with an engine scan tool. A scan tool can show you what all the sensors are reading in real-time, and when they are being acknowledged by the engine controller. Anyone can buy a scan tool...but one like I am describing is similar to what the dealerships have, and expensive. I think it would be worth your time and money to eat the $75 or so for a professional diagnostic by a certified repair shop.
Just my two cents,
Mike
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver
O2's are a definate maybe. But I would check your stick coils. I pulled, cleaned and covered my COP's with Di-Electric grease (or compound) several times before they were actually replaced, started to happen right after I got the truck with only 80,000 kms on it. Just doing COP's alone I could swap them in 1/2 hr easy, unless of course a friggen piece of gravel falls down the tube after you pull out the COP!!!! wedging between the plug tube and the plug! Man that sucks!
