Yea, JDM use to sell them for the F150's - not sure if they still do. That would be one of my choices - Dyna tech, Kooks. Although Dyna-max has nice looking LT's as well - their just as pricey as the other two.

Heres the web site vid - http://www.kookscustomheaders.com/

Kooks header install @ start up - http://www.svt-lightning.com/richmedia/kookstartup.mpg

Kooks headers @ WOT - http://www.svt-lightning.com/richmedia/kookwot1.mpg

Hey Paul, you remember those collector reducers you found for me? I should have gotten them, I can't find them now. I need that type before I weld the system up tight. Otherwise , I'm going to have to purchase 3" cats to get the system to fit good. Mannn, if I would have purchased the 3" cats to begin with. This system would have went together so much easier.. Damnit!! I want to shove those High flows right into the collectors and right behind the O2's - then make it permanent..

 

i used this thing called like the atomic spliter or something it was this huge peice of metal that you put in the wood then wacked with a 20lbs slugde hammer and itd blow the wood into 4 peices that was sweeet. still like my chopper axe thoe

 

YEAHHH!!! my headers will be here weds the 30th and my cut-outs should be here 2 morro or weds!!! YAY!!! still havnt got on the dyno yet thoe i really really want to do before and after dynos. im so excited WOOHOO!! i didnt have enogh money left on my pre paid card to get those nice clamps that hug the pipe rather than crushing it...can you get those at autozone?? thanks again Jbrew and everyone else for all your help tips and tricks i owe you all big time ill make it up to you by gettin those dyno graphs to proof that Longtubes add alot more power that shortys!

 

Carquest has those band clamps - MID5 Auto on Middlebelt a little ways past the Mall might have them - There a pretty good place for those hard to find parts - They have a machine shop in the back too

 

ive heard of MID5 ive seen it a few times my buddy works at that sears right in the mall. ive nva gone in there thoe ill have to stop by there adn get some of those clamps. i got out of school early yesterday called the dyno and he said well one dyno is in use and our plan was to put you on the other one but were haveing probs with it so we cant use it. so i donno whats going on there. HA one of my friends thinks that Detroit speed shop And livernois motors are 2 differnt shops. ha

 

You ever here of Ram-Chargers in Plymouth - It's right on the line, Plymouth/Livonia by Heinze Drive. Ann arbor trail Merriman Newburg area.

We use to call them Over-Chargers because they were so damn expensive - That's a speed shop as well..

My Dad went to school with guy that owns MID5 (Al) - Als usually walking around the store - kind of a short guy in his 60's. But tell them Big Mark said you hook me up and they knock the price down for yuh, they'll know who you mean. - My dads pretty tight with those guys down their, my brother goes in there quite a bit as well. I got a long block from them before (I-6) for $700 ... The same guys have been working their forever..

 

me and my buddy are going to MID5 after school and getting 4 of those clamps...if i took my mufflers to a shop could they chage the intlet outlet size from 2 1/2" to 3"? or should i just sell these and get new mufflers? and if i get new mufflers i was thinking of dynomax Bullets these super turbos are a lil on the quite side for me oh wait thats what the cut-outs are for

 

A muffler shop can - What's the deal wit cut outs ? Your not tuned for cut outs are you? My 98 ran like sh^t without cats because I wasn't tuned to run that way. Doesn't your low end disapear? My truck even sounded like sh^t w/factory tune without cats - Maybe it's a 5four thing. I put two cats back on it and I had more power/torque @ lauch from the line again. Mid range even sucked without cats. I had to get up to 3600 RPM's before it would pull.

With duel exhaust , you'll lose torque as well - don't you want it faster ? Or are you just looking for a certain sound?

 

im not worryed about the tune for the cut-outs its more or less when i want to be louder than everone else my trucks running ok without the cats smells better i know ill lose some torque but im sure the gains with the LT's will make up for it. id rather it sound really good then gaining back like 1-5 FTlbs of TQ. How much would it cost for the muffler shop to increase the size of my mufflers from 2 1/2 to 3"? i wanna go make a dyno run but they keep saying stuff is messed up my LT's get here 2 morro YAY ill take some pics when there brand new should i paint them or anything or just let them rust like my shortys?

 

They won't charge much for that- But 3" !! Why? Oh for the tail pipes?

Headers , you'll have less scavenging - that's gonna hurt torque as well IMO.

Are you reducing to 2 1/4 pipe or something ? I don't think your thinking straight on the exhaust - or maybe I'm not. You can get great sound /torque and power with the right set up. Maybe a Dyno tune will help you , I don't think you have the motor for that type of system - but maybe they can tune it . Maybe I'm wrong , but I think your opening the exhaust up to much for performance with just a factory tune.

Dynamax Bullets ? I think those are OK - I think I'm going with Borla or Roush - I don't care for Magnaflow mufflers - not any more .

 

because thats what the collectors are 3" i just want to keep all of my piping 3" itd be alot easyer. 3" collector into 3" cut-outs into 3"mufflers with 3" turn downs. its going to go Headers then the cut-outs sliping over teh collectors. then pipe to the mufflers then turn downs off the muffler. ill have less Scavenging?? whats that? i was wonder if they could open the muffler intlet outlet from 2 1/2" to 3"???

 

Back pressure is a myth. Read this; http://www.ssheaders.com/header.htm.

You cannot alter the inle/outlet of your muffler without destroying the muffler. If the inlet and outlet are 2½ then the inside piping is 2½. All they can do is reduce your 3" down to 2½ with an adapter then back up to 3" with an adapter at the other end. You would be better served the reduce the 3" collector to 2½ and run that all the way.

JMC

 

I do know you'll be losing torque below 3000 rpm - IMO that takes the fun out it. It really hurts driveability. You won't be running WFO most of time. It takes away from the pure enjoyment of driving the truck.

Just about anything you do to open up exhaust flow is generally going to give you some kind of HP gain when the hammer's down at higher rpms. But what happens to power everywhere else is just the opposite. You need proper flow engineering to get the exhaust velocity back up & increase cylinder scavenging.

It's hard to explain - If you look up "Scavenging" in the superchips forum - Mike has detailed explanations on the subject. I think you may be happy @ WOT , but that's it!! You'll hurt your truck eventually running it that way as well. Not kidding , it will catch yuh if she's not right.

 

That is exactly where I am @ - I need to reduce the colletor - they make collector incerts , 3-2.5 . I need to get those welded
in.

That Big A$$ 4x4 E4OD/4R100 Trans & T-case doesn't leave you any room for the crossover down their. The header and HF cat together puts me right at the bend!! Mannn , those headers are freakin LONG... When I tried the 3" off road pipe with my set up (it didn't fit right) , and even if I could have got it to line up properly- there's barley enough room for a pipe that size to shoot across!! I didn't need a 3" system anyway..

I know what I need to do now to get her perfect

 

ok after the cut-outs i will reduce the pipe down to 2 1/2" and then back to 3" for the turn down. once i get 450.00 i will go to that SCT Xcal tuner and get the 3 flash tunes and the hour of dyno time so my computer will know whats going on..that will be mid summer ish prob maybe for my B-day in july So you guys think its better to go from 3"to 21/2" threw my muffler and back to 3" turn-downs? or just get new 3" mufflers??