We've been changin' oil at 3k with 5w20 forever... we don't plan to wait any longer...

 

125,000 to go! Hang on, I'll be right back

 

Well, I can't wait for yuh - I've already went around twice - lapped yuh

See yuh on other side

 

115K with once a year changes of Amsoil Severe service 0w-30. The only other oil used has been Motorcraft 5w-20.

 

I have Amsoil in almost everything - Trans, both diffs, transfer case and power steering. Love that stuff in the trans.

Can't stand it in the crank case - Plugged my PCV valve, sludge made it's way into the intake. Started idling rough on cold starts because that goop made it into the IAC - it was bad .

I will say - I'm not sure if it was due to many short trips in combination with pulling it into a warm shop and idling for periods of time. But I never had that problem with Castrol - Kinduh freaked me out . That was two winters ago, I didn't even have 1000 miles on that Amsoil before I drained it..It looked fine after draining - I don't know exactly why it did that. I always ran 50/50 Syn and this was 100% Syn - Maybe that had something to do with it as well.

 

this is what I don't understand, 5w-20 and 5w-30 should flow at the same rate when cold because they are both rated at 5. Is this not right. Then the only difference is the riscosity at warmer temps, right? Or am I completly wrong.

 

You are correct. There are ranges though. One companies 5 may seem "thinner" because it is near the bottom of the range and anothers may seem thicker because it is at the high end.

 

Youre right, if they need to get oil to the cam phasers, or whatever they are as fast as they can they would recommend a 0 weight. So in theory you are right, 5W20 or 5W30 shouldnt matter.

 

Not caused by the Amsoil. Amsoil just loosened the sludge up for ya!
Should have used a good flush to clean all the sludge out before the Amsoil did it for you.
AutoRX would have been a good choice. Amsoils own motor flush is good as well but has more solvents.

 

Is that what it did , GOOD! -well that didn't hurt anything then.. With as many miles as I have - I don't think it's a good idea to change up on the oil I use..

 

I agree, you seem to be doing great with your current method!

 

Knock on wood - Hope to make it to 300 thousand. If I get underneath the truck while it's running I can here a slight ticking inside the headers - sounds the same on both sides. They don't leak and I never heard the sound before the headers where installed. I don't think it's anything to worry about.

 

Yep the old 89 Ranger had 250,000 miles with nothing but dino oil changed at 3000 mile intervals. Although the first motor cracked a cylinder wall at 60,000 miles. Heck the internals looked new still, expect for the crack going down one of the cylinder wall. But the second motor made it to 190,000 miles with no problems at all.

I use Motocraft blend 5w20 changed at every 3000 miles and have the oil analysis done that shows I should not extend past 4000 miles(changed it once at 4,000). Although on the wifes honda using the same oil and same brand of filter the oil analysis shows I can go to at least 5,000 miles or longer.

 

You can read the Act here:

http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/.../warranty.shtm

Here is a quote about the Act:
"While you cannot use a tie-in sales provision, your warranty need not cover use of replacement parts, repairs, or maintenance that is inappropriate for your product. The following is an example of a permissible provision that excludes coverage of such things.

While necessary maintenance or repairs on your AudioMundo Stereo System can be performed by any company, we recommend that you use only authorized AudioMundo dealers. Improper or incorrectly performed maintenance or repair voids this warranty." [emphasis added]

 

Just for all you guys who think Ford spent years and years of testing this oil vs. other leading brands... you gotta be joking me right? You know how much that would cost them ? Every car company has had TSB's shot out in the past (GM comes to mind real quick) about how they messed up and the oil they suggest isn't very good/causing internal problems. I just got a TSB from Mercedes Benz not all that long ago, stating that the proper use of Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w30 in the proper interval changes (10k) that they are having a SEVERE sludging problem leading to a number of other issues (despite how Labnerd stated that we no longer have sludging issues because we are no longer in the 90's and that only cheap-o oil's should have that problem).
I agree the first line of guys who engineer and even the second group who build have yours and your car's best interest in mind. However, the final word flows through a group of fellas sitting up top, all wearing white collard shirts and ALL trying to figure out the BEST way to SAVE THEM money, not you! Whichever oil company pays for the best lunch, or buys them the nicest gift, will usually win. This is politics, plain and simple. Do you guys also feel that all decision should be left to our government, because "they are the experts" in the matter and they "perform years of testing" ..... give me a break. i vote you go out and perform your own "years of testing". Find what works for you and stick with it.

tcope: Despite what you have shown, I have first hand knowledge and have seen a customer go through that battle. We use SWEPCO 15-40 in most of the cars that come through (we have plenty of other cheaper selection if they want) anyways, his engine failed went to the the dealership 9they require that they do the "major" work on warranty. After they looked it over, they determined it was "because we had been using the "wrong" oil and that lead to engine failure". Long story short, took em to court and got himself a new engine. They have to prove, beyond a reasonable doubt, that in fact the oil itself lead to the breakdown. Thats a hard thing to prove.