you just bust me up all on the inside dude

i've seen the pix of the results of that before you might as well do that again .

 

the last time i change one was with the plastic. it was about 10 degrees out [thats cold for a southern boy] that thing was hard to get on there.
i bought the metal ones and was proud. till jbrew saw em

 

I use the plastic tools that slide on the fuel filter line. They seem to work great once you figure out how to use them. I've got it down to about 5 minutes to change the filter out! just be sure to clean the surrounding area real good, and i recommend safety glasses/goggles and old clothes you dont mind gettin smelly.

 

Oh , you mean the scissor type ? I have one of those , but the walls are to thick to use on the fuel filter. If i remember right , you have a smaller one too. That might work , I don't have one of those. I usually use that oil line type - it's blue.

Mine have actually come off easily on my truck - 10 minutes if that.. It was when I was removing one off another's truck and it was a FRAM filter - Spent all morning trying to get that sucker off right before it broke - then I just cut it the rest of the way.

I never thought removing that filter was a big deal until I had a problem with that Fram type. - It sucked!

Oh , also , when I cut the line - I put the dang filter in the vise and SOB line was still a PITA to get off of there. I honestly don't know why - just guessing, the connector was screwed up somehow , not allowing disengagement. The connector did fall apart after finally getting it off the stem.

Mann, I hope I didn't jinx myself when it comes time to change mine out again..

The way I changed mine in the past is once the tool is slid into the connector - pull forward then back to disconnect. That has always worked in the past . It was that one time that I had a problem with one.

 

I did mine in 10 minutes with the help from this forum. If you do it, take your time... and be relaxed... being pumped up is not going to solve anything with this thing.

 

Usually you start out relaxed - The pumped up part may come later

I guess if you service them when it's advised , it won't be much of a problem. If you live in the north - that connector can rust in the inside pretty quick. Someone also mentioned WD40 hurts the rubber seals/o-rings. What additive in there eats rubber. I've always used it on rubber except in the transmission where petroleum jelly is recommended. Just curios as to what would be a better alternate , motor oil?

 

Give me the old school threaded connectors any day.

 

I used the plasctic type. Took less than 10 minutes. I think it was the 5/16. Lost the skin on 4 knuckles wiggling it but it came off.

 

ever one of those filters i've ever changed was PITA
thats why i bought that tool i was tired of screwing with them.
if it don't fit i going to grind it.
going back to autozone now
o'rielly's sold me a wrong transfilter
for a dodge

 

FYI: What surfaces or materials are OK to use WD-40 on?
WD-40 can be used on just about everything. It is safe for metal, rubber, wood and plastic. WD-40 can be applied to painted metal surfaces without harming the paint. Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40.

Quoted from: http://www.wd40.com/Brands/wd40_faqs.html


JMC

 

i've always treated that stuff like it was bad for fan belts
never thought about it.:o

 

Yea , that was posted on the first page of this thread , that WD-40 eats rubber, like O-rings and such. I used it for allot of years on that stuff, first I heard that. Thanks for the link and investigating.

 

i think every one of the filters i've change have been fram.
next one will be motorcraft for me

then i'll know why i beat my hands up under there

 

What's wrong with Fram ? They a little sticky

 

ya big brut