I'm going to have to do mine soon, I just installed the 75mm Edelbrock/BBk on mine and there is a good 1/8 all the way around the throttle body where the intake tube is too small, I am going to have to remove a lot of metal. I'm curious myself as to the fastest way to take it out. I thought of taking it to a machine shop and getting them to grind it out, I don't feel like taking the time with a dremel, I'll be there forever! Let me know if you guys find the write up. I'd like to see both. Please post a link to Neal's or Faster's or Onlowftoo if you find it, I don't have that one.
Thanks!

 

I have the link to the tools and stuff tehy used if you want it. LIke i said im guna hopefully do a write up on it in the morning!

 

Grey wire white stripe is positive

Grey wire red stripe is neg

Use two very fine stick pins - like the ones that pin together a new shirt. Stick those into the two wires and use them as contacts for the meter.

Turn the key on to read . Anything below .99 is good.

I had to drill my TPS out to achieve desired results. -




I also used 7mm bolts heads (an old COP bolt will work if you grind the ends on the top bolt down a 1/4") instead of the screw head type bolts to reinstall and set. I had to tip the sensor down quite a bit to get .99 . So , after removing the bushings in the sensor, I took a Rat Tail File that fit perfectly inside the bolt hole and stuck the file in my drill motor to oblong the bolt holes to make the sensor adjustable.

 

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hreadid=162379

Thats the link to neals.

 

Use a voltmeter to check teh volts???? HOw do we adjust it?

 

Yea , DC volts on the meter. X10 on my analog.

Read above , I added more info. But you tip the sensor to adjust. You'll most likely have to tip it down as I did. The file I used to make the sensor adjustable is in the pic - of course I had the file chucked up in a Milwaukee HS Drill Motor to speed things up..

 

I get what your saying now. By rotating the actual sensor it changes the voltage. And to adjust it you had to file the hole to get more pitch on the sensor. Awsome. Is it the same for my puny 4.6 as it is for your 5.4? .99?

 

Changes thru tipping the sensor - that's right..

Yep!! - it works for those motors that got the short end of the stick as well

BTW - If you damage the wires while checking , make sure you repair them properly - You don't want the TPS to short out on yuh. I had to because the wire insulator was a little deteriorated from age. They slide out of the connector with proper disengagement . You can then repair with shrink rap then push them back into the connector until they lock in place - then push the insert back in place. You can apply dielectric grease after your done.

 

Here's mine:
I bought a cheap (transdap?) 1" thick extension and had a machine shop fly cut it to 75mm. I then used the extension to scribe the 75mm onto the 70 mm elbow, and ground it close. I had the extension welded, inside only, to the plenum. I used a router with a copy bit to flush most of the rest of the front of the elbow to the extension. And then polished and polished some more.
The above fits my skill and experience level, it's what I do, but would be dangerous for the average weekend wrencher.
You could possibly accomplish the same thing by having the elbow just drilled by a machine shop to the 75mm and maybe 1" - 1 1/4" deep, and work the rest of it with a die grinder and some abrasive rolls, etc. A Dremel would probably not have the power or tooling do it.

 

That's Sweet !! It's looks factory - except allot smoother

Did you flush clamp it in a router table itself - Damn , that seems like it would work with the right bits $$ , then shape & blend where that leaves off..

 

Yes, you have the right idea. You only need to clamp the plenum so the TB face is level and route the hole out using a 75mm template. the router base is large enough, and the 75mm hole is small enough that it will ride OK with a steady hand.

 

Sounds good , I didn't think of using a router before. Taking small bites as you go, you should be able to form the opening the way you want it. Seems like a good way to go about it.

Thanks for the info.