It's Official...I Regret Electric Fans!!

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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 02:58 PM
  #31  
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Yes, a manual turn on option is very easy with the Troyer controllers. You know the green wire that runs to the A/C wire where it receives a signal to turn on when ever the A/C is on?? You simply take that wire (for which ever fan you want to work with) and run it through a switch to a 12v source. Not a lot of current draw through the switch, the controller is just looking for a signal to turn on.

I have yet to come across a situation or senario where I wanted/needed my fans on and they weren't already running though.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 03:18 PM
  #32  
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yea but there is a certain point where if the fans are on ALL the time then you dont get any gains from saving mechanical power, b.c it has to come from the alternator.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 03:31 PM
  #33  
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is it possible one of the fans could be running backwards?
please don't be insulted! this kind of thing can and will happen

just don't beat me up to bad
O.K
thanks
 
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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 03:43 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Galaxy
Good tip, and yes I had thought of that. Called Troyer about it and I don't remember for sure but for some reason I am thinking the contorllers were expensive and they would not donate one since I've had them for so long. All of my connections right now are soldered, so no poor crimps here!

Here's an idea...see if this is OK or not!!

I have a dual post (top and sides) Optima battery. The side posts come in handy for adding accessories. I have my constant hot wires (from the controllers) ran directly to the side post on the battery. Always have. I have my grounds on a screw underneath the radiator support bracket. Should I, or should I say, is it OK to re-route the grounds and connect them to the negative side post directly on the battery like I did the hot wires?? That would eliminate a lot of doubt about any grounds, no? Or is better to be on the frame somewhere?
You can try it but I'm not convinced that is where the problem is. Check your connection point on the fans where they are grounded to the frame. Is it good and clean between the ring connector and the frame. Everything seems to be due to a high current draw at the fan and the small ground wire that is under your radiator is nowhere near large enough handle the load. You said the fan was replaced, right, on the low temp side so I can't see you having two fans that exhibit the same condition. I still suspect the controller but what I don't have is an easy way to check it short of pulling the high temp controller over to the low side. And if I'm wrong I just helped you smoke your only working fan. How does the relay block look? it's the large cube shaped relay on back side of the controller. You should be able to pull it off and Inspect it for fit and possible signs of damage due to excessive current. Maybe the relay has arched and that is causing the problem.

LegIron
 
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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 03:52 PM
  #35  
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Nevermind - Edit
 
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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 04:51 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Tumba
is it possible one of the fans could be running backwards?
please don't be insulted! this kind of thing can and will happen

just don't beat me up to bad
O.K
thanks

Fans are not running backwards...just checked!!! No worries...never forget the small stuff

Originally Posted by LegIron
You can try it but I'm not convinced that is where the problem is. Check your connection point on the fans where they are grounded to the frame. Is it good and clean between the ring connector and the frame.
Didn't check today, but I'm reasonably confident I have a good ground. I'm all for re-wiring and finding a cleaner ground though. Worth a try...just not today!

Originally Posted by LegIron
You said the fan was replaced, right, on the low temp side so I can't see you having two fans that exhibit the same condition.
The low temp fan is the new one, and that's the one that just had the meltdown on the fuse holder. First time was with the old fan, same side. Both fans run great. Still running original controllers on both fans. (new fan doesn't come with a contorller)

Originally Posted by LegIron
How does the relay block look? it's the large cube shaped relay on back side of the controller. You should be able to pull it off and Inspect it for fit and possible signs of damage due to excessive current. Maybe the relay has arched and that is causing the problem.

LegIron
Relays and controllers look great, always have. I can pull the relay out and there's no damge or evidence of foul play in any manner.

Truck is up and running. I just replaced the fuse holder with a good one (actually, the one that came in the box with the new fan) with 10ga wire and a 30 amp fuse. Already did a test run this morning and just like every other time, it works like a champ. Fan (s) start completely normal and run just fine. Wires not hot or anything. But that's normal...until the next time.

I may very well re-do the ground wire job after Christmas just for peace of mind!!
 
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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 05:08 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Galaxy
Well, I just found my fourth electrical melt down in the wiring harness of my Troyer fans since installation. The one I just found was the low temp fan fuse holder. Second time this fuse holder has had a complete meltdown!! (There have been two others, but this is a repeat in this particular location)

This is on a brand new fan too!! When I installed my new radiator in September, I discovered the fan was shot. Replaced it (with the Derale 16") at that time. Every single connection is saudered (sp??), every plug in had dielectric grease. Fan controllers seem to be working fine. Turn on temps work with no notable problems. No funny happenings to suggest a bad controller. I can not find any reason why this just unexpectedly happens from time to time.

But I can tell you this...the worry of buring up my truck has officially exceeded any performance gains that comes with these fans.

I'm more or less venting (and sharing my experience) than asking for advice, but if you guys have any ideas why this happens or what can be done to prevent it, please...Let me know!! Thanks guys.
Sounds like the kit is faulty, heard that about the Troyer's package. I also heard faulty controllers from FAL too and that's the one I got. Spal has a rock solid controller, but checking and quadruple checking wiring is a good idea. I had a connector fry on me, why? Water got in the connector from behind and shorted it out. My fix? I put shrink tubes on all, new connectors and dielectric grease. (Sign of the cross and knock on wood), everything has been fine. They still worry me, but I never regret getting them.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 06:24 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Bluegrass
Made EZ.
HEAT = Loose connection or bad connection or over loaded circuit
Did you use electrical solder or Plumbers solder ???
did the fuse holder have wires coming out of it or did you make it up
you could solder the fuse in but of course you would not be able to replace it
you can use a DVM to test for Voltage drop across a connection
And yes the wire straight to the Batt is a great Idea
 
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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 06:41 PM
  #39  
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Leadfree or Rosin Core
 
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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 10:51 PM
  #40  
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Merry Christmas!

i am curious.
does the troyer package or spall control turn the fans off at higher speeds?
 
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 08:51 AM
  #41  
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The Troyer package does not, although only the secondary, fan operated by the AC clutch circuit, is the only one operating at road speed, and it cycles with the compressor.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 10:31 AM
  #42  
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I melted a fuse holder, 30 amp. I talked with a friend who installs remote starters, stereos etc and he recommended three things. 1st; replace the ground wires with larger gauge wires. 2nd; replace the fuse holder with a larger amp holder, I chose 40 amp and 3rd; use a 30 amp fuse. My grounds have been replaced with larger gauge and are routed directly to the battery terminal.

I have not melted a fuse holder in over 2wo years.

I also have 3 lighted switches that control the fans. All use relays. The wake up power to the controllers is on a relay and is wired to the normally on terminal 87a. When I flip the switch to energize the relay the red light in the switch lights up and activates the relay that sends current to the 87 terminal that is not connected turning off the controllers. I use that on the highway to turn off the fans when the A/C is on. It is also useful for crossing water when off road. The other two switches manually turn on the fans. They light up green. They are fused and run relays directly to the fans bypassing the controller. That way if the controller pukes I can force on the fans. The blue wire coming off the controller can be used to power a second fan. I use them to power two pilot lights in the instrument cluster to tell me when the fans are on.

JMC
 
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 10:39 AM
  #43  
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thanks!

Merry Christmas!

:santa:
 
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 11:27 AM
  #44  
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I'll never understand the guys that spend all that money, time and heartache for an electric fan, for what? Like another 1.2 whp and an extra half a mile a gallon? The only real benefit I've seen thus far is that it cleans up the engine compartment a bit, and it makes regular owners into electrical experts with all the time they spend rewiring and fixing the damn things.

I've never had a mechanical fan catch fire or melt wiring. KISS.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 11:51 AM
  #45  
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Cool

Originally Posted by Quintin
I'll never understand the guys that spend all that money, time and heartache for an electric fan, for what? Like another 1.2 whp and an extra half a mile a gallon? The only real benefit I've seen thus far is that it cleans up the engine compartment a bit, and it makes regular owners into electrical experts with all the time they spend rewiring and fixing the damn things.

I've never had a mechanical fan catch fire or melt wiring. KISS.
HI!... Ya o.k. I picked up 19RWH.P with my electric fans and 3-4MPG. I have 354RWH.P N/A with 28" tall tires and 4.10 gears and get 21.3MPH on the highway...........................
 
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