It's Official...I Regret Electric Fans!!
Yes, a manual turn on option is very easy with the Troyer controllers. You know the green wire that runs to the A/C wire where it receives a signal to turn on when ever the A/C is on?? You simply take that wire (for which ever fan you want to work with) and run it through a switch to a 12v source. Not a lot of current draw through the switch, the controller is just looking for a signal to turn on.
I have yet to come across a situation or senario where I wanted/needed my fans on and they weren't already running though.
I have yet to come across a situation or senario where I wanted/needed my fans on and they weren't already running though.
Originally Posted by Galaxy
Good tip, and yes I had thought of that. Called Troyer about it and I don't remember for sure but for some reason I am thinking the contorllers were expensive and they would not donate one since I've had them for so long. All of my connections right now are soldered, so no poor crimps here!
Here's an idea...see if this is OK or not!!
I have a dual post (top and sides) Optima battery. The side posts come in handy for adding accessories. I have my constant hot wires (from the controllers) ran directly to the side post on the battery. Always have. I have my grounds on a screw underneath the radiator support bracket. Should I, or should I say, is it OK to re-route the grounds and connect them to the negative side post directly on the battery like I did the hot wires?? That would eliminate a lot of doubt about any grounds, no? Or is better to be on the frame somewhere?
Here's an idea...see if this is OK or not!!
I have a dual post (top and sides) Optima battery. The side posts come in handy for adding accessories. I have my constant hot wires (from the controllers) ran directly to the side post on the battery. Always have. I have my grounds on a screw underneath the radiator support bracket. Should I, or should I say, is it OK to re-route the grounds and connect them to the negative side post directly on the battery like I did the hot wires?? That would eliminate a lot of doubt about any grounds, no? Or is better to be on the frame somewhere?
LegIron
Originally Posted by Tumba
is it possible one of the fans could be running backwards?
please don't be insulted! this kind of thing can and will happen
just don't beat me up to bad
O.K
thanks
please don't be insulted! this kind of thing can and will happen
just don't beat me up to bad
O.K
thanks

Fans are not running backwards...just checked!!! No worries...never forget the small stuff
Originally Posted by LegIron
You can try it but I'm not convinced that is where the problem is. Check your connection point on the fans where they are grounded to the frame. Is it good and clean between the ring connector and the frame.
Originally Posted by LegIron
You said the fan was replaced, right, on the low temp side so I can't see you having two fans that exhibit the same condition.
Originally Posted by LegIron
How does the relay block look? it's the large cube shaped relay on back side of the controller. You should be able to pull it off and Inspect it for fit and possible signs of damage due to excessive current. Maybe the relay has arched and that is causing the problem.
LegIron
LegIron
Truck is up and running. I just replaced the fuse holder with a good one (actually, the one that came in the box with the new fan) with 10ga wire and a 30 amp fuse. Already did a test run this morning and just like every other time, it works like a champ. Fan (s) start completely normal and run just fine. Wires not hot or anything. But that's normal...until the next time.
I may very well re-do the ground wire job after Christmas just for peace of mind!!
Originally Posted by Galaxy
Well, I just found my fourth electrical melt down in the wiring harness of my Troyer fans since installation. The one I just found was the low temp fan fuse holder. Second time this fuse holder has had a complete meltdown!! (There have been two others, but this is a repeat in this particular location)
This is on a brand new fan too!! When I installed my new radiator in September, I discovered the fan was shot. Replaced it (with the Derale 16") at that time. Every single connection is saudered (sp??), every plug in had dielectric grease. Fan controllers seem to be working fine. Turn on temps work with no notable problems. No funny happenings to suggest a bad controller. I can not find any reason why this just unexpectedly happens from time to time.
But I can tell you this...the worry of buring up my truck has officially exceeded any performance gains that comes with these fans.
I'm more or less venting (and sharing my experience) than asking for advice, but if you guys have any ideas why this happens or what can be done to prevent it, please...Let me know!! Thanks guys.
This is on a brand new fan too!! When I installed my new radiator in September, I discovered the fan was shot. Replaced it (with the Derale 16") at that time. Every single connection is saudered (sp??), every plug in had dielectric grease. Fan controllers seem to be working fine. Turn on temps work with no notable problems. No funny happenings to suggest a bad controller. I can not find any reason why this just unexpectedly happens from time to time.
But I can tell you this...the worry of buring up my truck has officially exceeded any performance gains that comes with these fans.
I'm more or less venting (and sharing my experience) than asking for advice, but if you guys have any ideas why this happens or what can be done to prevent it, please...Let me know!! Thanks guys.
Originally Posted by Bluegrass
Made EZ.
Did you use electrical solder or Plumbers solder ???
did the fuse holder have wires coming out of it or did you make it up
you could solder the fuse in but of course you would not be able to replace it
you can use a DVM to test for Voltage drop across a connection
And yes the wire straight to the Batt is a great Idea
I melted a fuse holder, 30 amp. I talked with a friend who installs remote starters, stereos etc and he recommended three things. 1st; replace the ground wires with larger gauge wires. 2nd; replace the fuse holder with a larger amp holder, I chose 40 amp and 3rd; use a 30 amp fuse. My grounds have been replaced with larger gauge and are routed directly to the battery terminal.
I have not melted a fuse holder in over 2wo years.
I also have 3 lighted switches that control the fans. All use relays. The wake up power to the controllers is on a relay and is wired to the normally on terminal 87a. When I flip the switch to energize the relay the red light in the switch lights up and activates the relay that sends current to the 87 terminal that is not connected turning off the controllers. I use that on the highway to turn off the fans when the A/C is on. It is also useful for crossing water when off road.
The other two switches manually turn on the fans. They light up green. They are fused and run relays directly to the fans bypassing the controller. That way if the controller pukes I can force on the fans. The blue wire coming off the controller can be used to power a second fan. I use them to power two pilot lights in the instrument cluster to tell me when the fans are on.
JMC
I have not melted a fuse holder in over 2wo years.
I also have 3 lighted switches that control the fans. All use relays. The wake up power to the controllers is on a relay and is wired to the normally on terminal 87a. When I flip the switch to energize the relay the red light in the switch lights up and activates the relay that sends current to the 87 terminal that is not connected turning off the controllers. I use that on the highway to turn off the fans when the A/C is on. It is also useful for crossing water when off road.
The other two switches manually turn on the fans. They light up green. They are fused and run relays directly to the fans bypassing the controller. That way if the controller pukes I can force on the fans. The blue wire coming off the controller can be used to power a second fan. I use them to power two pilot lights in the instrument cluster to tell me when the fans are on.JMC
I'll never understand the guys that spend all that money, time and heartache for an electric fan, for what? Like another 1.2 whp and an extra half a mile a gallon? The only real benefit I've seen thus far is that it cleans up the engine compartment a bit, and it makes regular owners into electrical experts with all the time they spend rewiring and fixing the damn things.
I've never had a mechanical fan catch fire or melt wiring. KISS.
I've never had a mechanical fan catch fire or melt wiring. KISS.
Originally Posted by Quintin
I'll never understand the guys that spend all that money, time and heartache for an electric fan, for what? Like another 1.2 whp and an extra half a mile a gallon? The only real benefit I've seen thus far is that it cleans up the engine compartment a bit, and it makes regular owners into electrical experts with all the time they spend rewiring and fixing the damn things.
I've never had a mechanical fan catch fire or melt wiring. KISS.
I've never had a mechanical fan catch fire or melt wiring. KISS.
I picked up 19RWH.P with my electric fans and 3-4MPG. I have 354RWH.P N/A with 28" tall tires and 4.10 gears and get 21.3MPH on the highway...........................




