Truck is always driveable...and the high temp fan still works anyways, not that it ever comes on.

The last melt down I had was physically at the battery where the two hot wires connect (physically to the battery [that was a scary one!!]). Anyways, long story short on that one, I drove to work and back for two days with no fans at all and my water temp never got above 210*. Thank god I didn't get stuck in dead stoped traffic. Moral of this story...yea, the truck is always driveable...especially this cool time of year with my big *** radiator. Stupid fans never come on anyways.

As for the wire thickness/fuse...I'm using the size that's running out of the controller itself and using the size fuse Troyer said use. At one time, I was blowing fuses at start-up and Troyer even recommended running a 40 amp fuse since it's only for a short duration during initial start up. But for this thing to melt, this has got to be something continuous that I agree with Bluegrass on in that it's not a fuse size problem.

Troyer was also no help...they gave me the standard run-around...check your wires, check your connections, bla bla bla. I called them the last time this holder melted down.

 

HI!... This is why I built my own electric fan kit over 8 years ago. I run a 40 AMP heavy duty relay for each fan. Heavy gauge wire with a direct feed to the battery. 30 amp fuses for each fan. I'm also running the DERALE 16' electric fans. Never had a problem in 8 years. They've gone through snow, mud, salt. I don't run a fan controller. I prefer mine on manual switches.

 

YES IT WILL I'm now running a 10ga wire for a ground. Working great so far.

 

I know I have good grounds, but I'll double check them anyways. Here's something interesting on that note though....My ground wires connect together and then connect to the same ground. My two hot wires connect together and connect to the battery together...but only the one burns up.

Not having an automatic/temperature turn on feature would be too much of a hastle for me, personally.

 

I wonder if one of the electric motors is partially seized or has bad windings ?

Yea, I wouldn't like that either..

 

I don't know anything about the fans supplied, what starting current, what harness is supplied, what switching etc.
You need this info to begin to sort out what should be done.
After the current draw is known, wire gauge size is selected to handle the current with some spare capacity, then fuse holders rated above the current.
Relays selected to pass the current and connection hardware that will be low resistance and reliable (not Radio Shack parts).
Any switches that will have to handle the full current must be above that rating.
Fuse holders should be the spade lug style with weather cap.
I would take it all out and re-wire to electrical law plus some over capacity and have it overwith.
According to wire tables, #10 gage should handle close to 50 amps continious current. Start at that base and select fuse holders to match as well as connectors. Solder where possible. 60 amp relays and possible use of contact suppression capacitor accross the high current contacts.
Some installations use a diode to ground, to cut motor feed-back when switched off. These items help lengthen life of the parts.
Also be sure the fan motor/s are wired to turn the right direction and not backwards trying to run against the air coming thru the grill.

 

Bluegrass is more help - I totally agree, that's what I would do.

 

I am actually going to partially agree with neal here.

I built my own kit a year ago and havent had any problem. I have mine on switches and on a controller. I used fusible link wires instead of fuses on mine.

I made a kit for Jwool15 and he has yet to report problems (6 months) and we used 30amp fuses on his. same fans and wiring setup.

ETA: not to mention is 1/4th the cost of TP or anyone else's kits

 

You should not have fuses on your ground side.
If you have connections that are heating up and melting then they were not sized correctly or they were not made correctly and contributed to the increased contact resistance.

 

Patrick -
Are you saying you have the option to turn them on manually, but really don't have to.. That would be a nice option..

I don't have this set up , I have been thinking about it . That's why I ask.

 

The problem is the fuse holder it's self. These holders become week after removing the fuse several times when making the temperature adjustment. After that you install the fuse and as mentioned previously you create a high resistance point at the holder causing heat and a melt down. I had the same problem initially, Shortly after installation the high temp fan melted the fuse, No AC at idle, at that time I removed both fuses and using a pair of flat pliers squeezed the contacts of the fuse holders together and installed two new 30 amp fuses. The fuses will be difficult to push in, but will make good contact. I have not had a problem in over three years since the initial melt down.

 

I just installed this same Troyer setup in my truck and so far all is well. One thing I did was keep the wiring of the two fans completely separate. I did not combine grounds and power leads to the battery. They do terminate at the same location but that's it. I can't say but is it possible that you are drawing excessive current due to a poor terminal crimp. As minor as this sounds it can make a difference. Also you keep smoking the same fan controller, have you tried a new one to eliminate that as a possible source for the problem. It could be internal to the controller and you would never know it.

Just my .02 cents

LegIron

 

Good tip, and yes I had thought of that. Called Troyer about it and I don't remember for sure but for some reason I am thinking the contorllers were expensive and they would not donate one since I've had them for so long. All of my connections right now are soldered, so no poor crimps here!

Here's an idea...see if this is OK or not!!

I have a dual post (top and sides) Optima battery. The side posts come in handy for adding accessories. I have my constant hot wires (from the controllers) ran directly to the side post on the battery. Always have. I have my grounds on a screw underneath the radiator support bracket. Should I, or should I say, is it OK to re-route the grounds and connect them to the negative side post directly on the battery like I did the hot wires?? That would eliminate a lot of doubt about any grounds, no? Or is better to be on the frame somewhere?

 

yes J.... c'mon you know i do everything the best way possible

 

Amen to that Pat, I've been following Patrick's footsteps with my fan install, so far I've done everything, I've got a manual override for the temp controlled fan and the high temp or A/C fan is totally manual, I hate the idea of cutting factory wiring, so I'm labled that switch A/C! haha