I just called about a truck that needs work. He said that it idles really rough and he figures that it is injectors. It has really low miles at about 85,000miles.

here is the link

http://www.usedregina.com/classified...y=light-trucks


I was wondering what worst case scenario is.

I know it could IAC, COP's, plugs, but I haven't heard it run yet. What are injectors worth these days?

 

so I went and looked at it just now. It runs but very poorly. It knocks like hell. It sounds like my dads 7.3 diesel when accelerating lightly.

his story is that he had it parked for over 5 months and when he went and started it it was running like crap. he said that there was a mechanic that went and looked at and said that it was one of the injectors that went bad and the knocking is from just compressing air. It's a 5.4.

what do you guys think

 

You can get all that stuff cheap - What motor though , I tried to find out but didn't get anywhere.. If you can get the vin someone may be able to shoot yuh a vehicle report.. That's Cheap if the motor hasn't been mistreated. You going to look at it?

 

Was the check engine light on ?

Idunno , you really don't know what it is. Worst case -the motor might be bad . Well I have used COP's that are good and injectors - I could send yuh a couple of each to test with..

You beleive the guy is being honest? talk him down a bit more..

 

Worst case, it may need a grand in parts, so total is 5 grand. That aint bad. Cleaning the IAC, throttle body, throw some injector cleaner in it, plugs, whatever, cheap stuff just needing you're time. Coils are 96 bux on ebay for all 8, IAC's run around 100 new. I'd buy it and give it a good going over. Watch for used 19lbs injectors on ebay too, otherwise they can be a bit of dough from the dealer.

 

Yeah the check engine light is on. He was kind of telling me some stories. I don't know if all of it was the truth.

He was telling me that the mechanic that said it was injectors is coming to buy it tomorrow and its going to be his winter project. I asked him about letting me take it and getting the code checked out tomorrow, he was a little reluctant at first but agreed to it after he found out it was only a few blocks away. It really didn't feel like a misfire though. I was watching the CEL like a hawk to see if it was going to flash at all but it never did. I also have a whole set of good used COP's. If he still has it tomorrow I am gonna take it to get the code checked.

The great thing about it is if I bought it and decided to keep it I could just put ALL my goodies from my mine to this one. Which has over double the miles.

What are some things that would cause a loud knock other than the internals going out.

 

Damn a 5.4L !!.. What did the oil look like ? How old is the gas in it?

I'll look for knocking on the DVD - The EGR pipe if loose can do that. I'll look it up if I can find it .. A misfire can as well. Timing skipped , a bad CPS can do that.. I'll post what I find ..brb..

Check around the MAF sensor for debris. Wiggle the COP's and check for a busted ear where they bolt down on the bushing.

Yea getting the codes read (prolly more than one stored) might shed some light..

 

Well this is what came up -

Engine Noise :

Main bearing oil clearance.
REPLACE crankshaft main bearing (6333).

Seized or heat damaged main bearing.
REPLACE crankshaft main bearing.

Crankshaft end play.
REPLACE crankshaft (6303) or crankshaft thrust bearing.


Connecting rod bearing oil clearance.
REPLACE connecting rod (6200) bearings.

Connecting rod bearing (6211).
REPLACE connecting rod bearing.

Connecting rod bushing (6207).
REPLACE connecting rod bushing.

Cylinder walls.
REPAIR or REPLACE cylinder block.

Piston or piston pin (6135).
REPLACE piston or piston pin.

Piston rings (6149).
REPLACE piston rings.

Connecting rod.
REPLACE connecting rod.

Hydraulic valve tappet (4.2L) or hydraulic lash adjuster (4.6L) (5.4L).
REPLACE hydraulic valve tappet (4.2L) or hydraulic lash adjuster (4.6L) (5.4L).

Hydraulic valve tappet (4.2L) or hydraulic lash adjuster (4.6L) (5.4L) clearance.
ADJUST clearance or REPLACE hydraulic valve tappet guide (4.2L) or hydraulic lash adjuster (4.6L) (5.4L).

Valve spring.
REPLACE valve spring.

Valve guide clearance.
REPAIR clearance or REPLACE valve guide (6510) and stem.

Cooling system.
REFER to Section 303-03 .

Fuel system.
REFER to Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual.

Exhaust system.
REPAIR exhaust leakage.

Drive belt tension.
REFER to Section 303-05 .

Generator bearing.
REFER to Section 414-02 for diagnosis and testing of the generator (GEN) (10300).

Timing chain/belt (6268).
ADJUST or REPLACE timing chain/belt.

Timing chain tensioner (6L266).
REPLACE timing chain tensioner.

Water pump bearing.
REFER to Section 303-03 .


I have another place to look , hang on..

 

This is the one problem I was trying to think of - Piston Slap -

http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/020320.htm

 

if its anything bottom end I am gonna shy away from it but I will definitely get the codes checked and wiggle around the COP's and EGR.

 

If it blew a plug and was then repaired incorrectly then that could be the problem.

Try and get it for less money then take it. You should still make out even if it does need engine work.

 

Heres a 5.4L knock problem in the 99 model -


http://www.**************/showthread.php?p=38802


f 150 forum . com


Holy Cow , It won't let me post the link

Replace **** with the bold letters. No spaces, to get to the link.. Geezzzz..


Well , they talk about piston slap after a cold start . If the knocking doesn't go away after it's warm .. That's bad news. That might not even be the problem, looking around for knocking problems seem to lead to piston slapp on the net.

 

I know it needs engine work but I am just worried that if it is indeed bottom end I don't want to have to replace the motor as I don't even have a garage and wouldn't want to pay someone to do it. I am also a university student again with no source of income and only about $6000 left right now after I just bought my sled.

 

anyone else what to throw their 2 cents out feel free...

 

4 Grand for a 10 thousand dollar truck. If it needed a motor you could get a rebuilt one and have it installed for less then 6 grand. You could do it yourself for much less..