Funny.....I've had naughty thoughts about manual transmissions lately too...


I think the hard part would be trying to find a donor truck for all the swap parts, can't be very many stick trucks out there. I've also got the adjustable pedals and have no idea if that is compatible with a clutch pedal or not...

 

yeah the donor vehicle would be the only problem.. im sure with all my sources i could find the parts though...

 

A few things to ponder: Tranny fitting in tunnel. Space is tight as the ZF is quite a bit larger than the M5OD-R2. The shift lever sits higher on the ZF. It may hit the tunnel. The ZF uses a different slave cylinder and master. Obviously you will need a ZF slave but the master must match the slave. If the master doesn't push enough fluid you will not fully disengage the clutch. Personally I suspect that the difference in the part numbers is due to fitment or placement issues in the engine compartment and or the length of the rubber hose leading to the reservoir. One more thing to consider is the rpm range of your engine. I had the privilege of driving my friends SD with a 6 speed towing a trailer. That tranny shifts a heck of a lot smoother than the Mazda tranny. But the max rpm of the SD is 4500 rpm. Not sure what will happen at 6000 rpm. One more thing that I just thought of is the hose between the slave and the master. The F-150 hose should have the same fitting and may need to be pulled a bit to reach the ZF slave. Which t-case will you be using? The NP case on the SD doesn't use slip yokes. Your BW 4406 might bolt up but I cannot yet be sure. I have both t-cases sitting around and when it warms up I will start measuring. BTY I had to finally replace the t-case after 235K. That took a lot of slop out of the drive train.

EDIT just remembered; Driveshaft length. The ZF is not the same length as the auto tranny. Both shafts will need adjusting....

 

What kind of problems have you been having with your trans? I thought you got it all lined out? I would think a manual swap would be really expensive, i would stick with the auto. If you are really considering a swap talk to Alan at Dirty Dog performance, he knows his stuff. He could probably tell you what would be involved.
One more thing to think about is your strip times. Their is tons of guys here with 6-speed diesels trying to race them and it isnt working at all.

 

p0781 p0782 p0783 all keep popping up. replaced the solenoid pack, tranny shop said its probably an electrical issue. none of the wiring has been messed with, the plug is good, it shifts just fine, it just keeps throwing codes.

 

you checked the wiring physically then? something that may be of interest, but probably not... it was brought up in my tranny thread by alan @ DDP, there is a certain fuse that can blow and cause minor annoyance - codes.

 

which fuse? I believe it to be something other than that, because the codes may not come for a week, or they may pop up any time i lay the pedal down

 

Damaged solenoid.
Solenoid circuit open or shorted to power or ground.
Power circuit open or shorted.
PCM damaged. PCM plug. Tune/calibration. - What's changed?

Yea, most everything points to electrical or solenoid. This happen after the new blower?

Idunno Joey, might want to ask your tuner about it as well.

I have an extra Solenoid if you end up wanting to try another.

 

no its been happening for the last 3 months. I put a new oem solenoid pack in, and never changed the tune for the tranny. driving around normal, it will never throw a code. but if I run it past 3/4, it will almost always throw a code.

 

I just cleaned that harness up about two months ago. No bare wires, but it was pretty nasty lol. That harness has a hold down/top of trans where the trans bolts to the motor. The harness had wear, thru the plastic protective casing from rubbing in that location. Maybe yours rubbed thru somewhere? Or the connecter bolt came loose. A short in the tranny harness sure would be fun to fix.

Well, you could check all the pins fairly easy, - if you haven't already.

 

well I pulled the valve body off and took it all apart. nothing seemed wrong at all. i cleaned it really good, checked all the wiring and the plugs, flushed all the oil out nd refilled it with new. i did 3 WOT runs and no codes yet... dunno if i did anything but everything seemed fine inside there

 

So you checked continuity from the solenoid connecter part of the harness to the 10mm bolt connector on the firewall ?

That's what I was referring to anyway. I think you are as well, just not totally sure. ?

 

I have not checked that yet. Since i tore the vb apart and flushed the old oil out, i have not thrown a code. I will wait and see what happens

 

turns out it was in my tune. for some reason when making tranny adjustments, i accidentally changed the function for time to complete a shift, and it was shifting faster than the tune thought it should, so it was throwing codes. wow thats a relief!

So somebody, dunno what it was, left a set of burnout marks on the highway close to my house... i drove to work for 2 weeks looking at them, and i decided to show him what a burnout is lol..... if you watch at the begining of my marks, you will see the other marks that somebody else did.... haha

 

a 45ish punch, 12* timing. i detuned it quite a bit today, somewhat of a "street" tune