Apparently even some Ford dealers use it... haven't checked with mine yet --> https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...2&postcount=24

"One problem with fuel injection is that because the injectors spray the fuel at the intake port, carbon builds up on the intake valve. The poorer the quality gas, the more carbon tends to build up. Now what happens when a sufficient amount of carbon builds up, it acts like a sponge, absorbing the fuel until it is holding all it can. Since some of the fuel that's supposed to be going into the engine is being absorbed, the computer tries to compensate by richening the mixture.

Now what happens is that this carbon has all the fuel it can hold, all of a sudden it reaches a point where it just dumps it all back into the engine. Now the engine has this big blob of fuel it can't deal with, the computer sees all this extra fuel and leans the mixture to compensate and now you have all kinds of drivability problems such as you describe.

There are additives you can put into the gas to help break up the carbon and clean the valves, but if the problem is as bad as yours seems to be, the best solution would be cleaning the valves by hand. This can be done by removing the head and valves and sand blasting them clean or by using a walnut shell blaster.

The walnut shell blaster can be used with the head still on the car and removing the intake manifold to gain access to the valves. As the name implies, the walnut shell blaster uses crushed walnut shells as the abrasive to clean the carbon off. The crushed walnut shells will not damage the engine if it is not completely cleaned out like a glass bead or sand abrasive."

 

Well , I learned something today..Great Info MGD , never heard of it , but I bet it works. Thru a sandblaster ? That's cool

 

Hey J brew, I noticed you upgraded your injectors. I am getting the lean codes again. I have new cats, new o2 sensors, new MAF, stock air induction, I've cleaned the TB, replaced the fuel filter, flushed the system, done injector cleaning. I have changed 2 of the COPs and I have 156k. The vehicle idles smooth as glass. My fuel pressure is about 30 to 33 psi at isle, but I notice the book says it should be 35 to 45 psi. Any thoughts? If I change injectors do I need to change the fuel pump?

 

yeh the newer type III bosh injectors have a much more efficient plume it sprays increases efficiency with same amount of fuel better response fuel economy and such.

 

Pressures read before the injectors get fed . You don't have to have Type 3's - there not that big of deal . If I were you , keep an eye on eBay in the fuel injectors section for a set of NEW 19lb injectors (orange) . As long as there new - take offs ,it doesn't matter a whole lot if there type 3's or not.
Just that there new.

I was lucky - I stripped the COP's , Injectors, wire harness, AC System, Water pump, Alternator in one shot from a Crown Vic crate motor for under $300. All the stuff was new!! They can sell it as new because they have been bolted down once.. So it's worth watching.

Actually it's 30-45 psi - vacuum hose attached @ idle

40-50 psi vacuum hose detached @ idle

It shouldn't' bleed down below 30 psi within 5 minutes time.

You can check the regulator without equipment by firing it up right after the pump charges after key on (8 seconds) - then shut it down right away- then do it one more time.

Pull the vac hoes off right away and it should be wet and smell like fuel.. If not the regulator is junk.


Heres the part you need for your lean codes -

 

Is that elbow you are showing me for the back of the TB? If so, I have already replaced it. This is the one that I have already replaced. I will look a bit more. I will check the regulator some evening the week and then post back to you when you do. Thanks for the great hlep.

 

Maybe they are worth a try. Are they OEM replacements?

 

I would look towards the MAF, If that's clean and in one piece, then the forward O2's. Your lean so you could give the injectors the noid light test and check pulse. You might want to do that first since a noid light is under $5.

Those Type three Bosch Injectors might be more benefit - hard to tell for me. I installed new plugs, harness ,COP's, Injectors and a Magnaflow muffler all at once - Then it wouldn't start lol..

Haha , that wizzed me off big time so I let the truck sit for a couple days while making plans for a big bonfire - Third day it fired right up.. The injectors were new and it took allot to prime. So if you get new ones , just remember that.

 

adding these things with how many miles? did you notice a large increase in power, ive got a few dollars layin around so im tryin to see what i can get for the best increase for my money. ive got no muffler now so id like a 14" maggie with the 2 big cats off and the little ones left on, a transgo shift kit, and i have no idea after that. injectors arnt that much money and ive got 120K so maybe it would be worth it for those also? ive got that DYI intake where u just get the filter clamped open to the stock housing. im sure i can do better, but for how much? any ideas, u really seem to know your stuff jbrew,
Thanks
Scott

 

I did all that stuff to my truck at a time when it was just acting tired. It ran okay. I came across all those new parts on ebay like I mentioned above and yea what a difference that made. The truck felt like it lost 1000 lbs somewhere - it was quick and responsive.

I figured it was the COP's more than anything, mine were still stock @ 185,000 miles. 229,000 miles on the clock now and it smokes the 3 valves no problem. I'm telling yuh , watch eBay - don't buy new from the dealer when you do allot better from people who part out the crate motors on that site.

The Crown Vics use the same ignition components and injectors - that's where all my parts came from for my 5.4L . a 4.6L Crown Vic crate motor. You might need different connectors for the injectors - theres two different connectors so be aware.

Currently I'm running the two little cats with no rears this week anyway- I ordered long tubes that on are the way and two maggy high flows and I have the 22X4 Maggy muffler currently installed and it's loud with that set up..

 

yeh they are a dime a dozen on ebay just about. i sold my set to torkum for i think what lik 60-65 bucks i dont remember.

 

do your own shift kit. drill out the stock plate


http://www.crownvic.net/tech/4R70Wnotes.pdf

 

If you go to the link in my last post and click on products i didn't see any
5w20 but i use a 10-30 in my 1993 4.9L I6 with the oil stabilizer, the trans,and the fule treatment, and i even use the grease iam sold
and here you can get a K&N cleaning pack for $20 and its good for 5-6 cleans

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/8-For...spagenameZWDVW
good price on some injectors that are direct replacement

 

ive got the e4od