ditto.


Alternator will go bad, truck will run off of the battery untill that power is used up, it progressively runs worse and worse, untill it's totally dead.

Typical symptoms are dash battery light will come on (not always). All lights will dim, radio will go on and off, will usually develop a misfire, not rev freely, etc. etc.

 

i would assume that the truck would atleast start and run far atleast a few min untill it would die again. the radio works and the starter turns as long as i have the ignition turned with out any struggle or lag.

 

so it turns over or it doesn't turn over

 

the starter spins the motor does not. well when i say starter again i am thinking its the buzzing i hear.
if theres a difference?
when i say the ignition is turned i meant in the on position.

 

I don't give a rat's... if that battery is a day old, a minute old or a decade old. Have it tested. Working in a dealership, I know that batteries can and do fail prematurely. Many times they will have enough power to turn on the lights (brightly I might add) with the key in the on position, but when loaded, the voltage will drop severely. Have someone perform a LOAD test on that battery. Many times an open test (just testing the open circuit voltage) will show that it is in perfect condition, but there can be other problems. You can buy a load tester at most parts stores, or just carry the battery to them and they will test it for you.

That said, the battery is the first and easiest thing to try. From what you're describing, that's where I'd start. Actually you can sort of do it at home. Turn on the headlights. Then turn the key to the start position; if the lights do not dim very much (a LITTLE is normal) then you'll have to look elsewhere. If they go out or go extremely dim, either the battery is fried or there is a loose connection somewhere (loose ground maybe?) Have you checked the battery terminals for corrosion? Also, my Lightning suffered from a broken cable down on the starter itself. Did exactly what you're describing...would just kind of click and make weird noises, but would not turn over. It also started running weird when it did start due to a intermittent connection. Be warned...the cable on teh starter is not easy to get to, and not easy to replace. Easier if you take the tire off. I had no choice, truck would not start and I was at work...with very few tools...so I ended up soldering a new lug onto the end of the cable and that solved the problem...for good. The new lug is a thousand times better than what Ford originally had on there.

And, as always--Good luck.

 

ill take the battery into autozone tomorrow to test the "load"
boy it would be nice if thats all it was.
thanks for all the feed back

 

you can also check the fuel delivery system by turning the key to the on position and listening for the fuel pump to run. As soon as you take the key to on it should run for about 1-3 seconds to prime the system. It will sound like a high pitched whine coming from the tank. If you arehaving trouble hearing it or are just not sure, have your old lady or a buddy (that you trust) turn the key while you lay under the gas tank. If she runs then there is no issue with the electrical part of fuel delivery.

on another note, you will want to try to crank the engine between checks to release any built up fuel pressure. The pump won't prime if there is already pressure in the system.

-Dan

 

good idea. will do.

 

hello again

i had the batt tested and it was fine evan under a load. and i do here the fuel pump when the key is on. whats next?
the shop?

 

Was the battery fully charged when you took it in, or did they have to charge it before they could test it?

 

I'm still confused on the whole - is the engine actually being cranked over by the starter or not? (i.e. can you see anything rotating under the hood?)

When my '05 Chevy Upchucker spun the harmonic balancer and bent a pushrod, the starter would spin but the computer prevented the starter pinion from engaging the flywheel.

Perhaps you lost a cam or crank position sensor? We need to know what's happening when you try to crank the engine and if you have fuel pressure...

 

Here are some items to check.
If there is no ignition to any cylinder, the crank position and cam position sensor are involved. If there is no signal from the cam position sensor the cam either is not moving (chain broke?) or that sensor is faulty. Check with a meter by hand moving the crank.
This pretty well answers the timing chain possibility.
Also there would be no fuel injection since that sequence is also triggered by the cam sensor.
Anything else is whatever you find. Could be the engine is locked up.
I would at some point remove all the plugs for cranking tests. Remove the injectors plugs so they don't spray fuel and become a fire hazzard.

 

i called a reputable shop and they took my truck as of 10 min ago. i was always by myself and never thought of checking if the belt was spinning while the key was turned. im sure it wasnt. yes batt was charged and no i did not check fuel pressure. thought i had the time and patients which i obviously dont. plus i have my eye on a 1992 f350 turbo diesel XLT dually 92kmi for 10k$ and im in a hurry to get rid of the f150.



thank you all for your help
P.s. ill post what the finding are.
watch it be a bad batt or fuel pump.

 

i was told i threw the timing and sucked the valves. dont realy know what that means but i was told i need a new motor.
im looking forword to the new motor but are they trying to fool me?

 

that means either you snapped one of your chains or it skipped a tooth.and valvetrain parts got wrecked.like i said before chain snappings are rare. the tensioners do a pretty good job.