Help: O2 sensor needs replacing I think

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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 04:15 PM
  #16  
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Auto Zone wants $50 for the Bosch OEM sensor and Hayward Ford wants $98 for it. Rip off dealers!
Also the guy at Auto Zone told me to bring in the old one as he has two different numbers for the sensors on that side and doesn't know which one is which.
 

Last edited by RetroMike; Mar 1, 2007 at 04:18 PM.
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 04:33 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by RetroMike
Auto Zone wants $50 for the Bosch OEM sensor and Hayward Ford wants $98 for it. Rip off dealers!
Also the guy at Auto Zone told me to bring in the old one as he has two different numbers for the sensors on that side and doesn't know which one is which.

Price sounds fair

I remember my replacements looked different on the ends when I swapped them out. I get good mialage for the way I drive itand it runs good. Maybe the Auto Zone dude wants to know if there 2 or 4 wire - idunno - If you need to drive the truck , get em both and take one back (one option)..

Geezz, look what I got for a deakership price on one here lol

The part numbers right tho -

Parts
. OEM Part
. Price
Oxygen Sensor
.
. Oxygen Sensor
. 5C5Z9F472AA
. $111.00
 
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 04:53 PM
  #18  
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I'll remove it tomorrow and ride my motorcycle down there for the replacement.

 
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 04:59 PM
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There yuh go- nice bike!!

 
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 08:54 PM
  #20  
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I thought I had heard that O2 sensors should be changed every 60,000 miles or so. Is that true, or just wait 'till they fail?
 
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 10:40 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by gaudenti
I thought I had heard that O2 sensors should be changed every 60,000 miles or so. Is that true, or just wait 'till they fail?
That's a huge can of worms. It's been debated many times here. Do a search. FWIW my '97 has 310,000 miles and has one original upstream and one original downstream. They will code out if they are bad, and my truck always passes emission testing and gets good gas mileage. One of mine was slow (B2 upstream), and the other had a bad heater (B1 downstream).
 
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 01:26 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jbrew
There yuh go- nice bike!!

Thanks Jbrew.
Gotta love the Honda VTX1800 bike.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 03:18 PM
  #23  
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The two different part #'s are for the length of the pigtail. However, the o2's are the same.

One side requires a longer pigtail. you can use long pigtails on both sides you just have to zip tie it up so it doesn't touck the manifold.

The pass side is a PITA to get the pigtail plugged/unplugged. It helps to take the tranny dipstick tube off.

Good luck
 
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 03:33 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by hcmq
The two different part #'s are for the length of the pigtail. However, the o2's are the same.

One side requires a longer pigtail. you can use long pigtails on both sides you just have to zip tie it up so it doesn't touck the manifold.

The pass side is a PITA to get the pigtail plugged/unplugged. It helps to take the tranny dipstick tube off.

Good luck
That explains that one , I didn't know that . I ordered two last year and both were had more than enough wire.. I'm glad I didn't get the shorter ones, The passenger side forward was a biaattcchhhh , but when I chaned it Ididn't have to put a wrench on the old one it unscrewed by hand ...Thanx for the info
 
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 05:00 PM
  #25  
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I picked it up at AutoZone today for $48 and installed it.
Wasn't too bad to do although it is pretty tight in there to get an end wrench on.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 05:53 PM
  #26  
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So did that fix the problem? Is your check engine light off for good now?
 
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