Hi, Newbie here. to start off I'm definately not a wrencher. But I've always managed to do my own minor maitenance ie: brake pads plugs etc. I purchased a new 2001 F-150 and now have reached the infamous 100,000 miles. I want to change the plugs but I'll be darned if I can even fing them!!!
This is the first Ford I've owned in quite a while. I love it and want to keep it in good shape. Anyone here that can talk me thru finding these dern things?
Thanks!
Floorrumbler

 

I tried to give you a link to this but I'm not that savy with computers, I guess. I guess it did work after all. Links at the bottom of my post!
Its not as hard as some make it sound. If you have any mechanical skills you should do fine. Search the threads back a day or two and you will find aother discussion on doing them. Heck there are tons of them if you keep going back.
I can honestly say that I can now do mine in about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Just take your time.
They are on the top of the engine. Just inboard of the valve covers. Each plug has its own coil on it (COP) which has one 7mm bolt that has to be removed. Best bet is to unplug all the COP's and fuel injectors as well. Those plugs just get in the way. All the plugs come out of the wiring harness in order so its pretty hard to get them mixed up. Some poeple will say to remove the fuel rails (crome tubing) but its not nessesary.
Also you will be removing the air intake tube, undo the hose clamp on the throttle body and the hand clamp at the air cleaner. Set it to the side.
Remove the 3 small bolts holding the bracket on the power steering resivior. (8mm).
It helps if you can blow out the holes that the plugs are down in. You don't really want any dirt or crap falling in the cylinders. Be sure to use dielectric grease when replacing the boots to keep the chance of the plug misfiring to a minimum. Also be sure to not overtighten or undertighten the plugs.
Using a piece of rubber hose to insert the nrw plugs is a real great help.

I suggest you take a few minutes to review the opinions and input of the folks on this site before you tackle this job. I have liked bosch platinum plugs but I ended up taking them back out and going with motorcraft plugs.
There are a lot of threads on this topic here. Good luck. Take your time and its not that hard. bullseye670.........

https://www.f150online.com/forums/link.cfm

 

Your motor has a COP (coil over plug) ignition system. If you look at the fuel injector rail, directly beneath the rail are the coils, the are about 1.25 inches across and black, they have a connector on them similar to an injector, and a small bolt (5/16 perhaps?) holding them in. You plugs are directly underneath them. If you go to the tech section of this site I believe there is a good How to on changing the plugs. The short of it is to remove the bolt on the coil, disconnect the coil plug and pull the coil out. Blow some compressed air into the plug hole to remove any debris and remove the plug with a good plug socket.

From what I have learned thus far on this site is that the motor is pretty finiky(sp) and tends to like the factory motorcraft brand plugs as replacements, however many people have used other brands with success.

2nd thing to consider is taking care of your spark plug threads in the head. they are easy to strip out (alum head) and then you're in a pickle. The plugs are a conical base and cannot be "snugged" like a standard plug with a compression washer, they MUST be properly torqued, and care must be taken whether you use antisieze or not cause that will change the torque you need to apply!

Search around the site and you'll get a wealth of info.

HTH

Josh

 

Wow! That was fast. Thanks to both of your for your speedy replies. I really appreciate the indepth help.
Thanks again!
Floor

 

If you don't drink now you will be an alcoholic after this plug change!

 

Here's the instructions in case you don't have them lol -

I've replaced plugs on quite a few 5.4Ls now (the 4.6L with plug wires is similar) and once you've done a set they really are not as bad as they look. Contrary to what some people will say, you don't have to remove the fuel rails. The Coil On Plug (COP) assemblies will come out past the fuel rail. I take an old piece of seat foam and put it on top of the radiator support to the engine to allow me to lay on it without hurting my stomach. It makes the job way less painful.

Start by removing the cover over the throttle body (the black plastic cover that says "5.4" on it). There are three 10mm head bolts that hold it on. Next remove the air intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter housing. You loosen the hose clamps at either end of it, disconnect the connector on the AT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body. Next remove the brace from the power steering reservoir to thermostat housing. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on. Now you should be able to see the COPs.

To remove the COPs you can use a 7mm or 9/32" wrench or nut driver or socket, extension and ratchet or all of the above. If you turn the fuel injectors to the side it will give you more room to work with the COPs. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the connector. After you're done that just twist and pull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come out.

After you've removed the COPs take a blow gun and blow out the spark plug holes. Don't be surprised if there is rust and junk in them. Next you can actually remove the plugs. Use a combination of extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchets to get at them. Whatever works best for you is good.

On the harder ones to get at I usually use a socket with a 4" extension, then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet. The plugs are way down in the holes which is why I use the extension then the swivel. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall.

Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the radiator support....usually .052-.056". Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug. You can use a piece of vacuum hose or fuel hose over the end of the plug to get it started in the hole. Carefully start the plugs in their holes. If you can't get them most of the way in by hand with the hose take a look and see why not. Cross threaded plug threads are no fun! The plugs are to be tightened to 13 lb-ft. which is just hand tight with a short ratchet. Don't over tighten them! The threads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is. After that just put everything back together in reverse order. Apply some dielectric grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them. Seal off the plug chambers with more dielectric grease to repel water and moisture.

I've done enough of these that I can replace the plugs in approximately 45 minutes but don't be surprised if the first time you do it takes a few hours.


Goodluck!!




Heres another set , that should do yuh lol - p://www.f150online.com/forums/lin...parkplugs.html

 

Your truck is equipped with aluminum heads and aluminum spark plug threads. Do not, under ANY circumstances, EVER attempt to replace the plugs with a warm or hot engine with aluminum heads. The best thing you can do is to let the truck sit over-night so it is cold when the plugs are replaced. Aluminum expands when heated and will exert unnecessary force against the plugs when removal and installation is attempted on hot, or even just warm engines. While this is usually not a problem, it can, in some situations, cause severe damage to the spark plug threads.

The bolt holding the round, black ignition coils next to each injector requires a 7mm socket for removal. The plugs are directly under the center of the coil, at the end of the long black boot at the base of the coil. They are down in the heads. You will need a 5/8" spark pluck socket for removal. Make sure the one that you use is explicitly for spark plugs. Using a regular 5/8" deep-dish socket will damage/break the plugs. Also, make sure your socket has the rubber ring (a short bit of cut hose) at the top to grip the plug to pull it out of the hole once it has been un-tightened. You may want to twist the fuel injectors out of the way to give you more room. Just be sure to twist them back when you're done. Once the COP's (coils) are removed, blow out the spark plug holes with compressed air to remove dirt and debris prior to removing the plugs. Spray a small amount of penetrating oil, WD40, or liquid wrench, into the plug hole and let it sit for 30 minutes to an hour to work itself in well. The plugs may feel frozen, or un-movable, at first. This is normal, they've been in their 100,000 miles. If you are unable to remove them, make absolutely sure the socket is all the way down on the plug, the ratchet is set for counter-clockwise (to loosen), hold it to keep it aligned and give the ratchet one sharp blow with your other hand using a dead-hit or rawhide hammer, a rubber mallet, or even a soft blow with a regular 16oz hammer if that's all you have (just be careful with that regular hammer, be soft). If you're not careful, you can cause damage doing this. And take care not to break your hand when the plug finally busts free.

People replacing plugs on a 4.6 should also have a 7mm open-ended wrench for removing the bolt which retains the #7 COP. The fuel pressure regulator is in the way for using a standard ratchet, or even a swivel. If you don't use a wrench, you will need to remove the fuel rail. Failure to do so WILL result in cross-threading the bolt for the #7 COP upon re-installation.

You will need....
A 1/4" ratchet, a 4" or 6" extension, and a 7mm standard metric socket.
A 3/8" ratchet, a 4" and 6" extension (having both helps), and a 5/8" spark-plug socket.
A good gapping tool which you will use to gap the plugs to .52-.56.
A good amount of dielectric grease.
8 new MOTORCRAFT OEM spark plugs.
Antiseize lubricant or motor oil.

continued......

 

Once you have removed the COP's and plugs, be sure all plugs are properly gapped and apply a very small amount of antiseize to one side of the plug's threads near the business end of the plug. An amount equal to half the size of a sweet pea is sufficient. You can also use a dab of motor oil, just enough to wet your finger, instead of antiseize. Re-install all 8 plugs, be sure not to over-tighten. You want to run them all the way down with just your fingers and the extension (no ratchet). When it's all the way in, and you can't turn it any more, only then use the ratchet, this prevents cross threading. If you can't move it with your fingers at all, turn the plug backwards until you feel it "bounce", then try again. After you start using the ratchet, once it feels snug, about 1/16 of a turn past that is sufficiently tight. It should be tight, but not smoked down. Using lubricant or antiseize more easily leads to stripped threads during installation because the amount of torque you must apply to install the plugs dry is far more than with a lubricant. Just be careful. You will want to apply dielectric grease all over the COP's boots. Really goop it on. The more, the better. Apply it on the top flat area around the boot which seals the plug hole, and around the area where the boot meets the plastic coil housing and work it in. Place a small amount in each COP's electrical connector. Now, reinstall your COP's. Place a small amount of antisieze, oil, or just WD40 on the COP bolts prior to installation. Don't forget to reconnect the COP's to their appropriate electrical connectors. Start her up and listen to the engine, put your hand on the top of the throttle body. Misses will show up as a rough idle and shaking of the engine. But, you shouldn't have a problem with it if you've done it right.

Have a beer, and a smoke. Bask in all your super-shade-tree-mechanic glory at what you have accomplished.

 

Thank you, very good. I printed that out to add to a growing library.

 

If your are not a wrencher take it to a dealer and have them do it might save you thousands in the end