Hello all, I am new member to this site and I hope my question hasn't already been asked 100 times...here go's...I have a 1997 F-150 super cab, 4.6L flare side. I am going to change plugs & wires this weekend is there any special brand that anybody can recommened? Also it appears to be a daunting task? any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

Either Motorcraft plugs or a premium brand, such as NGK or Denso. I've got Denso Iridums and love em. As for the wires, I went with Accel wires. Pretty much any decent brand will work. Don't go cheap, or you'll be getting mis-fires in no time.

 

From what I've heard around here, Motorcraft plugs are the only way to go. Half the time people try high-end gimmick plugs and start getting misfires in 100 miles, put Motorcraft back in and everything's fine.

I've had a lot of bad experiences with Denso plugs, at least for 2 stroke motors they're terrible, a set in my jetski fouled out in about 20 minutes and the motor almost wouldn't start again. I think I had a pair in my tractor with similar results. I always use NGK and never have any issues with them.

I'd just stick with regular Motorcraft stuff. Even if people don't report problems with other brands, there's never a big performance or mileage boost either so it's kinda pointless to spend the extra $$.

 

Densos in my truck have been in there for 14K miles, and not a hiccup from them. Also starts much easier in the cold now. I've got NGK plugs in my 2 stroke outboard boat motor, and they've been great all season.

 

NGK's the best plug any motor could have.

 

I appreciate the spark plug type input! But what I also need to know is how difficult is it to actually change the plugs? Is there any advice to be had?

Thanks

 

There's a step by step on the home page - or click on technical articals at the top of this one.

Good luck

 

Here's these might be a little better - I thinks so lol

I can't remember wher I found them - ther not mine, these cover the bases a little better and you absolutly have use plenty of dielctric grease or you'll pay for that in the future.

I've replaced plugs on quite a few 5.4Ls now (the 4.6L with plug wires is similar) and once you've done a set they really are not as bad as they look. Contrary to what some people will say, you don't have to remove the fuel rails. The Coil On Plug (COP) assemblies will come out past the fuel rail. I take an old piece of seat foam and put it on top of the radiator support to the engine to allow me to lay on it without hurting my stomach. It makes the job way less painful.

Start by removing the cover over the throttle body (the black plastic cover that says "5.4" on it). There are three 10mm head bolts that hold it on. Next remove the air intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter housing. You loosen the hose clamps at either end of it, disconnect the connector on the AT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body. Next remove the brace from the power steering reservoir to thermostat housing. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on. Now you should be able to see the COPs.

To remove the COPs you can use a 7mm or 9/32" wrench or nut driver or socket, extension and ratchet or all of the above. If you turn the fuel injectors to the side it will give you more room to work with the COPs. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the connector. After you're done that just twist and pull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come out.

After you've removed the COPs take a blow gun and blow out the spark plug holes. Don't be surprised if there is rust and junk in them. Next you can actually remove the plugs. Use a combination of extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchets to get at them. Whatever works best for you is good.

On the harder ones to get at I usually use a socket with a 4" extension, then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet. The plugs are way down in the holes which is why I use the extension then the swivel. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall.

Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the radiator support....usually .052-.056". Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug. You can use a piece of vacuum hose or fuel hose over the end of the plug to get it started in the hole. Carefully start the plugs in their holes. If you can't get them most of the way in by hand with the hose take a look and see why not. Cross threaded plug threads are no fun! The plugs are to be tightened to 13 lb-ft. which is just hand tight with a short ratchet. Don't over tighten them! The threads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is. After that just put everything back together in reverse order. Apply some dielectric grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them. Seal off the plug chambers with more dielectric grease to repel water and moisture.

I've done enough of these that I can replace the plugs in approximately 45 minutes but don't be surprised if the first time you do it takes a few hours.


Goodluck!!

 

Thanks for the input! I was able to change them with out any major problems at all thanks to all who replied! It only took about 1 hour to change the plugs I used a 5/8 socket(deep well) connected to a 3" ext, to a swivel nuckle to a 8" ext, to keep it from coming apart I used some electrical tape at the joints woked like a charm!! I did not have to remove the injector lines!!...But it took me about another hour to replace the wires that SUCKED! I was able to change the serpentine belt in about 10 mins. The fuel filter is another story I purchased the special remover tool couldn't get it to budge!! I spent probably 1.5 hours on this (it's the original from 1997!!) with no luck. so I will attempt it at another time.......once again thanks to all this is a very informative website!!