I just hit 156k mi. in my 5.4l 97 Sexpedition. The radiator hoses 'seem' ok. I've changed the coolant several times, but am wondering if it's due to have the hoses changed... just because. Book only says to check them.... any thoughts from the Ford mechs'?

Also, that lower hose has some sort of t fitting mid way. is that a tough one to change?

 

I'm looking at a flush pretty soon and probably going to change the hoses too, yes the bottom will be hard. Another tip is change the clamps to a Tridon screw type rather than what's on it, just makes things easier.

 

I was looking at another site yesterday about anti-freeze.... A comment was made that internal errosion is a major factor in hose life. Small particles fall out of solution when corrosion occurs ( and hoses decay ) and get blasted around in the coolant system. It said to feel on the outside bends of the hoses where the fluid changes directions and feel for soft spots.

I went out and felt mine ( 66K miles ) and sure enough the outer bends of most of my hoses are getting soft. The outer surfaces look like new hoses.
Oh yea, don't ever squeze a hose on a hot engine. A friend of mine did that one time, the hose burst and sprayed him. He spent 2 days in the hospital with burns.

 

So... I'm thinking I should change my radiator hoses... probobly the thermostat while I"m at it. How abuot that lower hose... is it tough?

 

No, it's not too bad. You will need to pick up constant tension hose close pliers for the job. (Makes it easier than channel locks.) The best way to do the lower hose is to pull the coolant reservoir. You will also need to clean the reservoir while it is off otherwise you can get the build up in your new coolant. If you pull both the upper hose and the lower from the overflow you can flush the block completely. I would also stick with the clamps that are on there, just move them a bit when you re-install them. These clamps are better because they will stay tight and will not rust like the screw style clamps. If you want a better "clamp" that you will not ever have to worry about, you can get some Powergrip clamps made by Gates. These are a "heat shrink" style that increase clamping when they get hot.
If the hoses are old I would repace them due to degradation. The hoses that are installed on newer vehicles do not crack on the inside like the older ones do. This cracking is caused by an electro-chemical degradation (acts like a battery). Most new hoses are made to be resistant to this problem.

If you have anymore questions let me know I have been thru and built my truck, so I know quite a bit about the Mod motors and these trucks in general. I am also an engineer at Gates so if you have any more coolant/hose of any kind questions don't be afraid to ask.

 

I agree keep the factory clamps unless you screw them up. As for flushing the system try dish washer detergent. Works better than anything at the parts store, and you probably have some under the sink.

 

I replaced mine just because the truck was 7 years old at the time with about 150,000 miles on it.

I got my upper and lower hoses from Ford. It had the factory style clamps attached to the hose ends already, so I just used them. I did change the T'stat at the same time too.

The lower hose is just as easy as any other lower hose. It comes as a whole unit, so the oil cooler hoses are part of the package. You just have to deal with the additional hoses, which is no big deal. I didn't remove the reservoir. Mine had no sediment in it.. Maybe because I had been flushing the system every 18 months prior to changing the hoses?

As far as the clamps go, I just attached the new hoses, released the clips that were keeping the factory clamps open and it was a done deal. Much easier then having to tighten a screw type clamp for sure!

Not a single leak from any of the six connection points either. Now, I would not re-use the original factory clamps... Those always seem to leak, every time I've tried that on different vehicles... Then it's off to the auto parts store for the good ol' screw clamp!

Not a difficult job at all. A little spendy, as that lower hose was around $70!

Mitch

 

thanks... Napa online had the lower hose for like $45-50. Stiking my head under there and seeing 3 hoses coming off the rad hose and dissapearing up into the engine had me a bit concerned. glad to hear it was easy. Wish me luck!