should I change plugs now...while I'm in there?
should I change plugs now...while I'm in there?
Hey guys,
Got some Granatelli coil connectors.
Have 52,000 miles on this 05 SCrew. 4.6l
I know these plugs are supposed to be 100k plugs, but should I go ahead and change them since I'm going to be that far into the job?
If so, what is the best replacement? I have a tad of pinging at WOT @ 5200RPM.
Thanks
Got some Granatelli coil connectors.
Have 52,000 miles on this 05 SCrew. 4.6l
I know these plugs are supposed to be 100k plugs, but should I go ahead and change them since I'm going to be that far into the job?
If so, what is the best replacement? I have a tad of pinging at WOT @ 5200RPM.
Thanks
Hi.
Yup - most certainly.
Read this ( note post # 14):
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ght=spark+plug
Cheers
Grog
Yup - most certainly.
Read this ( note post # 14):
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ght=spark+plug
Cheers
Grog
Last edited by MGDfan; Aug 21, 2006 at 01:14 PM.
Originally Posted by MGDfan
Hi.
Yup - most certainly.
Read this ( note post # 14):
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sho...ght=spark+plug
Cheers
Grog
Yup - most certainly.
Read this ( note post # 14):
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sho...ght=spark+plug
Cheers
Grog
Hi.
Odd, it works for me?
Here it is again;
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ght=spark+plug
It's also in the Supercrew forum, and in the Chips forum ... yeah the plug breakage thing - this is post # 14:
Odd, it works for me?
Here it is again;
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ght=spark+plug
It's also in the Supercrew forum, and in the Chips forum ... yeah the plug breakage thing - this is post # 14:
Originally Posted by Superchips_Distributor
Ht everyone,
The reality is, it remains to be seen what happens over time with the 3-valve engines, which are the only ones with those special long spark plugs with the extension on them that tends to show rust, etc.
Personally, I think it's a good idea for everyone that buys one of these trucks (or any other FoMoCo vehicle with a modular engine) to right away, remove the spark plugs, check them, and apply some anti-seize to the threads, and then properly reinstall them so that you don't have these kinds of problems later on.
It is true that these new style plugs for the 3-valve engines do tend to show rust on those extensions, and creak a bit on the way out - I don't like that, either. Usually it's not a problem, but keep in mind that we're only a couple model years into this, so most of the 5.4 3V F-150's don't have a lot of miles on them - and by the time Ford says to replace them at 100K miles, who knows how they'll come out?!? We just don't know that yet, not enough time has gone by.
I just feel that it's always a good idea to pull the plugs on any Ford modular engine very soon after buying the vehicle (especially these 3-valve motors), put a dab of anti-seize on the threads, and then *properly* re-install the plugs with the correct amount of torque/tightness. And since you can't reasonably get a torque wrench on every one, the way we do it is to take the spark plug socket & extension and tighten the spark plug as tight as we can get it BY HAND - WITHOUT the ratchet - and then connect the ratchet and give it 1/8th additional turn. That does the trick for these aluminum cylinder head modular motors, and won't over-tighten them.
Remember, from the factory these spark plugs are generally installed by robots, and in a lot of cases do get over-tightened - which is precisely why the half-thread cylinder heads are more prone to spit out spark plugs, though the 2003 & up full-thread heads have done it once in a while, too. They are over-tightened, either from the factory or form someone replacing them later on (happens more in Lightnings that get lots of mods simply because they tend to get more spark plug changes), and then over time, with enough thermal expansion & contraction cycles from heating & cooling, the threads distort, then the plug loosens up, and then it spits the plug out. I think we'll see a LOT less of that on 3-valve motors, of course, this happens mostly in 2002 & earlier modular motors with the half-thread (4 threads instead of 8) plug bore design.
So if you are really concerned about this (and I think it's a a good idea to be concerned for all owners of Ford modular engines), then get the special spark plug socket that is required for all of the 3-valve engines, for the rest of you just a regular spark plug socket and get those plugs out of there - check them, clean them up if they are reusable (if they have 50K or more miles replace them!), put a dab of anti-seize on the threads (because you have aluminum cylinder heads), and then reinstall them as I described above, and you should be OK.
I hope that helps,
The reality is, it remains to be seen what happens over time with the 3-valve engines, which are the only ones with those special long spark plugs with the extension on them that tends to show rust, etc.
Personally, I think it's a good idea for everyone that buys one of these trucks (or any other FoMoCo vehicle with a modular engine) to right away, remove the spark plugs, check them, and apply some anti-seize to the threads, and then properly reinstall them so that you don't have these kinds of problems later on.
It is true that these new style plugs for the 3-valve engines do tend to show rust on those extensions, and creak a bit on the way out - I don't like that, either. Usually it's not a problem, but keep in mind that we're only a couple model years into this, so most of the 5.4 3V F-150's don't have a lot of miles on them - and by the time Ford says to replace them at 100K miles, who knows how they'll come out?!? We just don't know that yet, not enough time has gone by.
I just feel that it's always a good idea to pull the plugs on any Ford modular engine very soon after buying the vehicle (especially these 3-valve motors), put a dab of anti-seize on the threads, and then *properly* re-install the plugs with the correct amount of torque/tightness. And since you can't reasonably get a torque wrench on every one, the way we do it is to take the spark plug socket & extension and tighten the spark plug as tight as we can get it BY HAND - WITHOUT the ratchet - and then connect the ratchet and give it 1/8th additional turn. That does the trick for these aluminum cylinder head modular motors, and won't over-tighten them.
Remember, from the factory these spark plugs are generally installed by robots, and in a lot of cases do get over-tightened - which is precisely why the half-thread cylinder heads are more prone to spit out spark plugs, though the 2003 & up full-thread heads have done it once in a while, too. They are over-tightened, either from the factory or form someone replacing them later on (happens more in Lightnings that get lots of mods simply because they tend to get more spark plug changes), and then over time, with enough thermal expansion & contraction cycles from heating & cooling, the threads distort, then the plug loosens up, and then it spits the plug out. I think we'll see a LOT less of that on 3-valve motors, of course, this happens mostly in 2002 & earlier modular motors with the half-thread (4 threads instead of 8) plug bore design.
So if you are really concerned about this (and I think it's a a good idea to be concerned for all owners of Ford modular engines), then get the special spark plug socket that is required for all of the 3-valve engines, for the rest of you just a regular spark plug socket and get those plugs out of there - check them, clean them up if they are reusable (if they have 50K or more miles replace them!), put a dab of anti-seize on the threads (because you have aluminum cylinder heads), and then reinstall them as I described above, and you should be OK.

I hope that helps,
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Originally Posted by MGDfan
Hi.
Odd, it works for me?
Here it is again;
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ght=spark+plug
It's also in the Supercrew forum, and in the Chips forum ... yeah the plug breakage thing - this is post # 14:
Odd, it works for me?
Here it is again;
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ght=spark+plug
It's also in the Supercrew forum, and in the Chips forum ... yeah the plug breakage thing - this is post # 14:
4.6 2valve with iron head.
Does that really apply?
As for the other question: What plugs should I go with?
Originally Posted by jward
Pull one and take a look at it. Maybe two. Should be easy to decide from there.
Motocraft, Bosch.....similar.
Why the Granetelli coils?
Motocraft, Bosch.....similar.
Why the Granetelli coils?
Getting it for better conductivity.
Hoping to help performance a little, mileage a little, and hoping it will correct that odd idle the 4.6 seems to have.
You've got to be kidding! There are spark plug issues with the 3 valve heads???
After the fiasco with the 97-02 head design they still have not got a dependable system? Lets see how long have aluminum heads been in general production, what about 15 or 20 years? And these idiots can't design a head that is reliable and doesn't cost a fortune to have the plugs changed.
My old Chevy '74 truck had some transplanted POS aluminum heads from like a 1989 Corvette and there was no issues with them at all. But in 2003 Ford is still working out bugs with their spark plugs and heads?
Sorry to rant but I was thinking to get an '03 next, but this is too much.
After the fiasco with the 97-02 head design they still have not got a dependable system? Lets see how long have aluminum heads been in general production, what about 15 or 20 years? And these idiots can't design a head that is reliable and doesn't cost a fortune to have the plugs changed.
My old Chevy '74 truck had some transplanted POS aluminum heads from like a 1989 Corvette and there was no issues with them at all. But in 2003 Ford is still working out bugs with their spark plugs and heads?
Sorry to rant but I was thinking to get an '03 next, but this is too much.
Originally Posted by jntskip
I don't have the 5.4, though.
4.6 2valve with iron head.
Does that really apply?
As for the other question: What plugs should I go with?
4.6 2valve with iron head.
Does that really apply?
As for the other question: What plugs should I go with?
Ahhhhh ....me bad. Sorry 'bout that.
Motorcraft for sure - or Denso Iridium if you want to get fancy. I have a brand-new set for sale in the Classifieds, if IT-16 heat range is correct for your truck. Check Denso's site.
You still have an aluminum head, though, so some of that still applies ( anti-sieze, inspection, proper install, etc).
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Grog
Originally Posted by MGDfan
Ahhhhh ....me bad. Sorry 'bout that.
Motorcraft for sure - or Denso Iridium if you want to get fancy. I have a brand-new set for sale in the Classifieds, if IT-16 heat range is correct for your truck. Check Denso's site.
You still have an aluminum head, though, so some of that still applies ( anti-sieze, inspection, proper install, etc).
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Grog
Motorcraft for sure - or Denso Iridium if you want to get fancy. I have a brand-new set for sale in the Classifieds, if IT-16 heat range is correct for your truck. Check Denso's site.
You still have an aluminum head, though, so some of that still applies ( anti-sieze, inspection, proper install, etc).
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Grog
I misread....by reading too quickly, and thought I read that it had iron heads.
I think I'll see what I can find.
I want something that will give a better burn than OEM.






