Alright experts, here is another fuel filter thread.

Trying to change a buddies fuel filter on a 92 F150, 300, I6.

We worked to try to take it off for almost 3 hours today. It wont release, either side. I am using the same plastic tool set I used on mine a year and a half ago. I changed mine in about 5 mins. but this one has kicked my ****.
I give up it wont come off.

I have another concern, when we bled the pressure off the fuel system there was a bunch of air in the line. Should this be a concern and what would cause that? I do not see any leaks.

Thanks in advance.

 

Are we talking about the spring lock couplings.

 

Yep, the "quick connects" I now use that term lightly for them after today.

My truck is a decade newer but when I did mine then I just slid the tool into the coupler and they poped right off. Took 5 mins start to finish on mine. This one just didn't work out that way, to say the least. (3 hours and didn;t work at all )
It's got similar connectors to mine but these would not release, I could not get the tool in far enough to release the ring. It hit the ring and stopped, wouldn't go under it. Buggered up my tool trying to force it.

Think we are just going to replace both of the lines; from the tank to the filter, then from the filter to the engine. I think both couplers are bad. Hope the couplers on the tank and the one on the engine work.....

But the air in the line is my main concern now.....
Wondering if maybe instead of a filter problem, if it's a hole in the pick up tube on the fuel pump. That's the only reason I can come up with for all the air in the fuel line and that would also cause the eratic stuttering problems too.

 

Well that is possible but I would suggest getting a Haynes manual and testing every thing. Its all covered extensively by Haynes.

 

Like what?

What would you look under?

He's got a haynes or chiltons for it. I prefer haynes because they have the electrical diagrams.... but thats another thread.

He is getting a lean condition, w/ low fuel pressure, first thought was fuel filter, cheap and easy... well we thought... and normaly is cheap and easy.
Even if it dont fix it, the filters got over 100K on it, it's a few miles past time to change it.

We found the air in the line when I relieved the pressure at the fuel rail to change the filter.

So basically is it normal to have some air?
Should we be concerend?
Or is it normal?

I didn't relieve mine when I changed mine, I just wrapped a rag around it when I disconnected it.
Somebody told him to relive teh pressure so that it wouldn't spray as bad and he wanted to, so we did. Thats when we noticed it.
Of course with air in the line we could do all the fuel pressure test we want but since air compresses more than a liquid it will always be a a lower reading with the air in the system.

So then I am inclined to ask, could this air also be a symptom of a clogged fuel filter?

 

Well I looked at the Haynes and there are several thins to check to see if all is well like proper voltage to the pump or pumps if you have dual tanks. Out put test 6 oz min in 5 seconds.fuel injector resistance 11 to 18 ohms. If air is in fact in the lines I would start at the tanks and move up but thats just me.

 

Ohh it was a ton of air, after driving about 12 miles to my house and sat for 10 mins before we started working on it. Releasing the pressure it was Spray, hisssss... spraaaay, hisss, spraaay... hisss, hissss, sputter, spray, sputter, spray, hiss sputter, hiss....


It is dual tank, so you think maybe neither pump is getting enough volts to pump fast enough to keep up with demand? Since it's spratic then that would be two part time shorts some where (one on each pump unless they are the same circuit, using same relays etc on a switch between the two)... ahh man I hope it's not a short; much less two.

I still don't see how that would let the air get in to the line. The bleeder valve is before the FPR, so it almost has to be entering in from the back (tanks to the valve somewhere).
It's only a part time issue, it still runs, and it's a rotating non consistant stumble, which means when it does it then it's all cylinders, not even enough to throw a code though and not a solid mis on a single cylinder. It's just starving for gas.

I shop tried to change the filter before, but they couldn't get it off either. Thier solution was to unhook the EGR.... Runs fine but he hates the engine light being on now and I don't blame him.

 

Well there is a lot going on back ther with those tanks pumps check valves that keep one tank from slowly filling the other and circuitry that does the switching so you got to start somwhere.