thnx for the tips I will look into that

 

[QUOTE=FredoCamaro]Sweet, I will be careful with the fuel rail, do the fuel injectors just pop off attached to the fuel rail or do I need to take some clips off or something??? And how high can I raise the pass. side fuel rail before it will bend or damage? The pass. side looks like a wreck waiting for a place to happen …lol


the fuel rail has 2 screws one at the 2nd injector and one near the fourth. its a 5/16 socket and pretty easy to get to. The bottom of the injectors is attached to the cylinder and the top is connected to the rail. When u get the screws out just pull the rail up and wiggle them a little and they pop right out. Try to keep the rail attached to the injectors, it will be easier that way to put back in. Also make sure u put some lube on the ends of the injectors (i used petroleum jelly) or you will risk jamming or tearing an o ring. Dont worry about it getting into the cylinder it will just burn up. The rail is pretty strong so u shouldnt have any problems while moving it. You get a lot more freedom of movement with both sides off.

 

[QUOTE=swolehead1]


Sweet thnx again for the help!

 

Well today was war in the engine bay! I took the pass. side fuel rail off and was not able to manage to keep the injectors attached to the rail so I just removed them completely and cleaned them up... The lubing the O rings were an awesome idea that made my day much easier... The 2nd cyl coil was the only one that was bad but my dad wanted to replace everything for good maintenance.

One thing that threw me off is Ford has change their design of the coil a few times and when I received the new coil I thought it was the wrong one and had to freak out and do research to figure it out so what we did was went to the Ford dealership and they told us what was up they also tested all the coils and said they are good except for the 2nd cyl one

but what is a story w/o pics...


Old design



New design

 

New on top and old on bottum

 

Thnx again for everyone’s help! I'm sure it will be only a matter of time till I need your help again ...lol

I figured I would try to give back some by letting everyone know some stuff that made the job easier for me....

There was some wires that were in my way and they are connected to the battery power source area that looks like a real pain to mess with so I just removed the throttle cables so I could pulled the wired over and up, then I tied them up to the hood and they were out of my way

 

One of the complications I had was after I took the coil out something fell on the side of the spark plug not allowing me to get the socket on so these tools really saved the day

Craftsman mirror, magnet, and needle nose pliers. The reason I say Craftsman is they are very easy to bend and break. I actually had off brand ones and broke both of them on this project so I had to go out and buy these new ones

The magnet makes taking the spark plug out very simple and the little screws for the coils...


Also a snake light because this is the only way you can really direct enough light to use the mirror

 

The 7mm swivel socket was a life saver for the hard to reach coil screws



and the plugs at the back of the engine can be very tricky but this combo eased the pain some


I used it in the order: 5/8 socket, short extension, universal swivel, long extension, and ratchet

 

Since I dissected a few of the coils I only have 4 good original ones left....I can let them go for $15 a piece + shipping. If that my help some of you out since the MC ones from AutoZone are $70 a piece. I live in OKC area.

 

fredo,

were you having any problems with the way your truck was running before you decided to change the coil paks and plugs? I'm thinking I have to do the same. Mine is running pretty bad right now. Runs sluggish, idles pretty good though. I'm trying to decide whether to change the plugs and check for bad coil packs.

thanks

 

Yes, it would idle fine but when you start driving it would run rough and the SES light was flashing part of the time and sometimes it would come on and off but would stay on more than off. So we had AutoZone scan the SES light and we went from there, the scan said 2nd cly misfire but the SUV had around 140k miles on it and I didn’t like how the plugs looked and since taking all the coils off to change the plugs was such a pain for me to do and because the newer coils had a different design, we decided to just change all of them while we were there for good maintenance...

 

Here is something interesting...

When we scanned the SES light it said 2nd cyl misfire....we went to a shop and had them change just the 2nd cly coil and spark plug ...it ran a little bit more smooth but the problem was still there and it was still running too rough...

We scanned the SES light again and still it says only the 2nd cyl miss fire so we changed all the spark plugs and coils (including the 2nd cyl again) and now it runs perfect with no SES light


I am assuming that this means you can't always trust the scanner 100%????

 

Thanks for the follow up fredo. I just started with the coils and plugs. Having trouble getting the 5/8 spark plug socket on the plug. I guess it ain't deep enough. Guess I'll get back on it tomorrow when the parts store opens up.

 

No problem, hopefully I will save you from learning this stuff the hard way like I did ...lol If you already have your new spark plugs then test the socket out on one of them... because something could have fell around the spark plug not allowing the 5/8 socket to "catch"

Also I tried to use one of the "spark plug" 5/8 sockets that have the rubber piece in the middle and ended up having to turn right around and take the spark plug back off to get that sucker off....so I suggest using a normal 5/8 deep socket like the one in the picture I posted

 

It was debris. I used my compressor to blow it out. I thought I had gotten it all out with a vacuum but there was just one little piece there. I changed one coil pack, still have the miss. I don't have much time in the evenings on weekdays so i'm gonna burn this Saturday getting this thing fixed. It would help if I could get a cel on so I could figure out which pack is bad, I don't really want to replace all of them. Another guy said he replaced one, the engine still ran rough, but the problem went away a few miles down the road. thanks for the feedback.