I need to change the spark plugs and coils on my 98 Expedition 5.4 v8 4x4


Do I need to remove the fuel rails/injectors to get to them? What all is necessary to get to them?



thnx David

 

Also where would be the best/affordable place/website to purchase the parts needed


thnx David

 

You dont need to, but some people pull off the fuel rail to gain a little bit more wiggle room in there.

How many miles on the truck? I wouldnt worry about changing coils unless they are giving you problems...they are pretty expensive, especially if you are replacing all 8. But eBay would be the best place to get the coils. I dunno what would be cheapest for the spark plugs. Alot of times there are package deals for the coils and the plugs on eBay as well, so keep an eye out for that.

 

Got the ses light checked out at Autozone and it is a miss fire...And since it has 140k miles on it I figured it would be good maintenance to do a full tune up... And if it was necessary to pull the fuel lines off I was thinking bout going with new injectors also

What do you guys think about the Autozone or Oralley's coils and injectors?



thnx David

 

I bought my Motorcraft plugs and a replacement coil from AutoZone.

The coil was about $50 for one. Check with your local store to see if they have the MC plugs. I understand there was a disruption in the contract for AZ to sell the MC stuff, don't know if that has changed.

I also moved the fuel rails. Managed to loose an injector O-ring in the process, so I had to make a trip to O'Reillys for some more.

Personally, I wouldn't waste money on injectors or coils unless they were bad. It's your money, though. I would buy the largest tube of dielectric grease possible (O'Reillys for around $12).

A 7 mm swivel socket (Sears) is very handy to have.


Steve

 

Yeah, as I said earlier and SHO also mentioned, dont worry about coils and injectors unless they are giving you problems. Thats an awful lot of money to spend on something you probably dont need. Since you have a misfire, start with the plugs, and if that doesnt fix it, then try to narrow it down to a certain cylinder and see what needs to be replaced/fixed.
If you are really worried about the injectors, you can just run some injector cleaner through the system. Or just run some gasoline with additives in it (Chevron with Techron is supposed to be good and keep the system clean).

 

If you have the dtc's it will tel you what cyl is missing, p0301 cyl #1, p0302, cyl #2 and so on an so forth. Check to see if the heater hose is leaking onto the #4 coil causing it to short out. At 140k coils and injectors aren't needed unless they are bad. I'v seen many trucks over 200k with factory stuff on them.

 

I just went throught the same crap and the dealer ate me alive. I just found this board and I wish I found it a week ago. I have read numerous threads and could have saved some money and done it my self. I found this link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-F...ayphotohosting for a great place on ebay with all eight plugs and coil packs for 130.00 I check the company out and they have a great track record and have sold to a car buddy of mine about twenty times and never a problem.

 

WOW, that is an awesome deal!


Autozone said it was the 2nd clr. and the place we took it to said the same thing so we had the coil and spark plug changed... They said it was fixed and It runs better but still crappy and the ses goes on and off so it's hard to do the Autozone thing again because they don't check it unless the light is on. What do you guys think?

 

Identify a driving condition that exaggerates the misfire condition. Drive it under those conditions until the SES comes on. Then, have it scanned. The light does not have to be on when scanned, the PCM will have stored the misfire codes in memory as continuous or memory codes.

When the zoner reads the code, WRITE DOWN THE CODE(s) (not the descriptions). Come back here and use the code in your SEARCH to find previous discussions for the same issue.

Steve

 

I had a little delay since I went to the lake for 2 weeks ...hehe

Ok I went back to Auto Zone they scanned it, it says 2nd cyl miss fire and the code is po302 Does the po302 part mean anything else but 2nd cyl miss fire?

Also, I now this is a novice question but which cyl is which....if I remember correctly isn't the front driver side #1 and the front pass. side is #2?

And if the 2nd cyl spark plug and coil has been replaced and it made it run a little more smooth but it still does not run the same what else could it be?


thnx David

 

I desided to change all the spark plugs since they dont look very healthy and the 7mm swivel socket was a life saver!


I am trying to get to the last 3 pass. side coils on a 98 expedition 5.4L 4x4 I was able to change the driver side spark plugs but the pass. side is a pain I was able to move a lot of the clutter but I can't seem to figure out how to get past the heater hoses


Any suggestions????

 

i just changed mine out yesterday man, i feel your pain. i didnt remove any of the hoses from the pas. side on my 97 f150 5.4 4x4. just the fuel rail which ended up tearing an o ring from injector 2 on the right side btw. What i had to do was after i took out the coils, drop the 5/8 spark plug socket into the hole, then insert the extention, then insert the rachet. This left me with just enough clearance to get one tick from the rachet when recovering from a turn. Fairly time consuming but it worked. I did this with the last 2 on each side i believe. The passanger side is harder to get to than the driver side's spark plugs.

 

Sweet, I will be careful with the fuel rail, do the fuel injectors just pop off attached to the fuel rail or do I need to take some clips off or something??? And how high can I raise the pass. side fuel rail before it will bend or damage? The pass. side looks like a wreck waiting for a place to happen …lol




.....I did the driver side pretty smoothly w/o removing the fuel rail I have 2 extensions for the 5/8 socket but one was to long and one was short like the one you are talking about.... what I did was I put the socket first then the longest extension I could find that would fit which was still to short then I put a swivel on top of the shorter extension and then another long extension on top of the swivel this made it pretty easy and quick.... the hardest part was getting the little screws for the coils in and out but the little magnet and the 7mm swivel socket and two skinny extensions on my little Craftsman ratchet made that workable

 

Do yourself a big favor and clean the MAF, master air flow sensor, located in the air filter compartment.... I had the same problem and I had it cleaned ($200 Dealer) and now its runs 100% look at this site for directions, and be careful and patient. www.berrysweb.com/clean_your_maf.htm