I'm new here and have spent the last few hours reading through many posts. I was actually hoping to find a sticky or something on this. I'm sure all of you regulars hate when the noobs come on and ask the same question. If the info is posted, I couldn't find it in search. I'm also new to Ford and F150 so I really do need help.

I just bought a 94 F150 4WD Short bed w/302ci automatic. The previous owner had put the K&N intake in it but it looks like that was it and hadn't done anything else as far as maintenance in a very long time. The first thing I did was a routine tune up replacing the plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor button, PVC valve, fuel filter and serviced the K&N filter.

Can anyone help me (point me to a link or whatever) with what I can do to a a little hp to this truck? It doesn't seem too bad since the tune-up but it struggles going over mountains with no load, constantly dropping down in gear. On flat ground, it seems to have decent pickup. Maybe it's just a problem with the shifting, is that a common problem with this vehicle? Also, when I take off from a stop, there's a lot of clunking noise? Any ideas on that - is it common?

Very sorry for the noob questions and I sure appreciate your patience. -Joe

 

the clunking is probably either u-joints or motor/transmission mounts.

As to a performance upgrade, add a Turbonator thingy! I am just kidding.

But seriously, how much money do you have to spend?

There are a lot of things to do to a 302, some cheaper than others...

 

Wow, thanks for the quick reply. I really don't want to spend a ton of money on it. I already have a project car that has a supercharger and nitrous, that's my toy. This is just for general drivability. I'm definitely going to replace the exhaust. I was hoping to get a magnaflow exhaust, unfortunately they don't make one for that year just a muffler. I'm thinking of getting the Flowmaster 17239 (dual side). That should be nice for the sound but I don't expect any hp out of it.

I've seeen people talk very favorably about fuel injector upgrades but I don't know what I have or need. There seems to be a ton of performance chips available. Most I'm sure are eBay resistors (rip-offs) - any recomendations on those? Maybe the SCT? Yeah, that turbonator things is such a joke, I laugh when I see that advertised on TV and I hope those guys on 2 Guys Garage get paid well for saying it works well with a straight face!

Basically, I'm not looking to put a supercharger or nitrous or anything extreme, just wanted to know about bolt-ons that might help me out some. Money isn't a problem and if that's what it takes, I'll do it. This constant down shifting and struggling over the mountain is hard to take though. -Joe

 

Ebay resistors are crap. NOthing more than a resistor you can get at radioshack and you'll proably loose power with it. ITs a crock

I would, for the minimal investment you want, remove the stock exhaust and replace it with a catless system (depending on whether or not you have emmissions standards of course) and a set of flowmaster 40 series. Now, you'll get better power out of the longtubes, and they aren't that expensive. Do the whole exhaust for less than a grand with longtubes.

On ebay there is a little thing sold for the 5.0 called an EGR simulator. I had tons of sucess with this little dingy. It simulates signals to the computer that the EGR is functioning properly (which it never did on mine, that is why I bought htis thing) and really aided in opening mine up. A quick cam swap would be good, probably a B-303 for your app. (224/224 DURATION and 480/480 LIFT ) that'll keep a decent idle for you and not require higher lift springs. 24# injectors can be had on ebay for about $100-$150 shipped, and the MAF for them I ahve seen as low as $50.

Its a real easy engine to mod, and there are a slew of parts out there. If you want to know more, email me at stang99x@yahoo.com

 

I am aware that the eBay resistors are crap and attempted to acknowledge that in my post. I was asking more for advice on other more respectable chip solutions like that from SCT. I see lots of people here talking about the SCT Xcal2. Unfortunately, that is for OBD2 vehicles and my 94 is pre-OBD2. SCT does have another chip for my vehicle called Eliminator. I'm a little confused by their web site because when I click on Eliminator, it tells me about the XCalibrator flashing for OBD2 ?

I can't really go cat-less or bypass the EGR because of emissions testing/requiremeents in Maryland. Because I am pre-OBD2, I am subjected to a tail pipe test. Either of those mods would make it difficult to pass.

You definitely have my attention with the injectors, MAF and cams though. So does my engine currently use 19# injectors I see people talking about? How do I identify the 24# injectors you are talking about? Is there a part number or something to ensure I don't buy the wrong ones? I want to make sure they have the correct connectors and everything. Also, how do I identify the proper MAF to go along with these larger injectors (part number or application)? I've read that people have trouble passing emissions testing with the B303 cam. Some have had better luck with the E303 but it doesn't give as much power gain, what do you think? Thanks again -Joe

 

Better take a look under the hood. I don't think you have Mass Air to start with.
If the engine is Speed Density you can't use any of the Lettered cams. They are roller cams and you have flat tappet unless you change over. This changes the fire order.
Next the injection may be batch fire not sequential.
Next if you complaining of poor pulling power why would you want to put in a cam that kills low end in favor of higher rpm power and still have to shift down to get it.
You want to build low end pulling power that is not done with race type mods.

 

Thinking back about vehicles from the early 90's, have you checked the diff gear ratios. You could not get all the gear choices that we have today and yours may have the "hiway" gears in it. A slightly lower gear ratio should prevent the downshifting & help it "high gear" those hills. I remember that used to be real aggravating & we do not have any real hills in the middle of Alabama. Make sure your engine mods are torque mods & not the HP mods for a 302 in a Mustang. Good luck
Later

 

It definitely has a Mass Air Flow sensor. As part of the initial tune up I did, I pulled the MAF off and cleaned the 2 sensors in it. Although I am a complete noob to the application and engine, I know plenty about the MAF (including the correct way to clean it). -JoeB

 

You may have a worn spot on the rear drive shaft spline area, near the tranny. If grooves form there, the drive shaft "pops" loose on take off. Greasing may help, but replacement is probably the best cure.

Also, on a stock engine, the higher output injectors won't do much for you, will they? Have you checked to see if your catalytic convertors are clogged?

 

Maybe I'll just pull the drive shaft and take a look at all of that. Is there a way to inspect it and the condition of the universal joints without pulling everything apart?

I'll check the cats, I hadn't really thought if exhaust flow could be the problem. It actually feels pretty peppy on the low end. The only problem is when I'm cruising in 3rd and it constantly goes in and out of OD. Is that just normal with the 3.55 rear? -Joe

 

Going up the hills, yes.... I get that at times with my 5.4, 3.55 geared F150. Granted, I have 31" tall tires too, but I did do a simple exhaust upgrade and that seemed to make a difference. I tow a lot, and I'm not able to run in OD while towing unless the conditions are just right.....

I had a 1986 5.0 GT and while that was a nice combo for a #3000 car, the same size engine in a #5000 brick will make a difference...

Mitch

 

I am not sure about the F-150 specifically, but usually all you would do is unbolt the shaft at the rear axle, then pull - it will either separate into two pieces, one of which remains bolted to the tranny/transfer case, or the whole assembly will slide out of the tranny/transfer case (with the result loss of fluid). The condition I am talking about does not concern the u-joints, its related to the area of the shaft that allows it to move when the rear suspension flexes.

Also, how many miles are on your truck?

If your cats are broken up or clogged, you may have had a gradual loss of power with out really noticing it. I had this on my '94 Suburban.

 

I put a 3.55 rear end in my dads 93 302 that he used to have instead of the 3.08s. That made a huge difference. Could go up steep hills and not shift out of overdrive. I agree with the others to start by looking at the gear ratio. You can do alot of mods and if you still have 3.08 gears you want be where you would by changing to 3.55s.

 

As I mentioned before, I believe it has the 3.55 rear. At least the code on the sticker indicates that is what came with the truck (19). I can't swear the previous owners didn't pull it out and put a 3.08 in there. If I'm driving 70MPH, it will drop out of OD on even the slightest grade on the highway with no increase in throttle. Maybe 70MPH is just too fast for an off road vehicle? Even at 55 MPH going up a hill it will drop out of OD. I don't know what all the previous owner did with the truck. It has 116,000 miles and most of the exhaust looks like it could be original. Maybe I should just swap out the entire exhaust. -Joe

 

The injectors are color coded.