2005 F150 5.4 engine info/help needed
#1
2005 F150 5.4 engine info/help needed
Greetings all,
After i finished changing the oil on my 05 5.4L, I noticed that the front 2 bolts that hold the fuel injection intake to the head appeared loose. Upon further inspection, i found both of them to be hand loose. After looking further i found that the next 2 bolts were also movable by hand. having never seen any engine that had bolts this loose purposely, but not having the slightest idea of torque specs, i finger tightened the 4 down to finger snug. Figured that would do until i could get it into the dealer to check it out.
This morning, the truck kept stalling after running for less then a minute. I had autostarted it and it retrys 3 times and each time it would stall in the end. im half asleep and freaking out, thinking, i only changed the oil. then i remembered the bolts. so, after all was said and done, it took me loosening those 4 bolts up again, and then i restarted, and voila', it was running like a champ again, ceptin the check engine light is now on.
so can anyone tell me exactly what the heck happened? i just cant see 4 manifold bolts being some kind of ajusters of anything.
looking from the front, the black tunnels that curve down like ribs to the heads, the bolt on passender side front also goes through one of the cooling intake boltons, the other side something of the same. then the next bolt back between the next 2 tunnels. easy to see, and amazing enough even easy to hand reach for the most part. I am at a loss as to how hand snugging these could just throw the engine for a loop and bring on the check engine light.
only 15000 on truck......
Any and all input apprectiated....thanks folks...
I bid you all a great day...
After i finished changing the oil on my 05 5.4L, I noticed that the front 2 bolts that hold the fuel injection intake to the head appeared loose. Upon further inspection, i found both of them to be hand loose. After looking further i found that the next 2 bolts were also movable by hand. having never seen any engine that had bolts this loose purposely, but not having the slightest idea of torque specs, i finger tightened the 4 down to finger snug. Figured that would do until i could get it into the dealer to check it out.
This morning, the truck kept stalling after running for less then a minute. I had autostarted it and it retrys 3 times and each time it would stall in the end. im half asleep and freaking out, thinking, i only changed the oil. then i remembered the bolts. so, after all was said and done, it took me loosening those 4 bolts up again, and then i restarted, and voila', it was running like a champ again, ceptin the check engine light is now on.
so can anyone tell me exactly what the heck happened? i just cant see 4 manifold bolts being some kind of ajusters of anything.
looking from the front, the black tunnels that curve down like ribs to the heads, the bolt on passender side front also goes through one of the cooling intake boltons, the other side something of the same. then the next bolt back between the next 2 tunnels. easy to see, and amazing enough even easy to hand reach for the most part. I am at a loss as to how hand snugging these could just throw the engine for a loop and bring on the check engine light.
only 15000 on truck......
Any and all input apprectiated....thanks folks...
I bid you all a great day...
#2
#4
Hi folks,
Upon further inspection, I found that out of the 8 bolts that hold that thing to the heads, 7 were finger turning loose. only one was snug. I looked at it off and on all day, and did much research, and decided to finger snug them all down.
Then i tried to run it and it ran like cow puckey. Then i reset ol bess with a half hour of no battery w/ headlights on. Changed nothing else. Put the power back to her, and low, she runs like a clock...with the bolts snugged down. Took er on a nice test ride, reset my stations, all seems fine.
We will see what happens when i auto start it at 6 am....its winter here now and nothing like a friday surprise.
I seriously think theyve been loose since birth, and computer compensated for the obvious air leaking. Then when i cut off its "fix" it went nuts, till i erased its memory...now its happy again....
Course i could be wrong as rain....would still like real knowlegable types to chime in....
Thanks to all
Upon further inspection, I found that out of the 8 bolts that hold that thing to the heads, 7 were finger turning loose. only one was snug. I looked at it off and on all day, and did much research, and decided to finger snug them all down.
Then i tried to run it and it ran like cow puckey. Then i reset ol bess with a half hour of no battery w/ headlights on. Changed nothing else. Put the power back to her, and low, she runs like a clock...with the bolts snugged down. Took er on a nice test ride, reset my stations, all seems fine.
We will see what happens when i auto start it at 6 am....its winter here now and nothing like a friday surprise.
I seriously think theyve been loose since birth, and computer compensated for the obvious air leaking. Then when i cut off its "fix" it went nuts, till i erased its memory...now its happy again....
Course i could be wrong as rain....would still like real knowlegable types to chime in....
Thanks to all
#5
Originally Posted by falcho
Hi folks,
Upon further inspection, I found that out of the 8 bolts that hold that thing to the heads, 7 were finger turning loose. only one was snug. I looked at it off and on all day, and did much research, and decided to finger snug them all down.
Then i tried to run it and it ran like cow puckey. Then i reset ol bess with a half hour of no battery w/ headlights on. Changed nothing else. Put the power back to her, and low, she runs like a clock...with the bolts snugged down. Took er on a nice test ride, reset my stations, all seems fine.
We will see what happens when i auto start it at 6 am....its winter here now and nothing like a friday surprise.
I seriously think theyve been loose since birth, and computer compensated for the obvious air leaking. Then when i cut off its "fix" it went nuts, till i erased its memory...now its happy again....
Course i could be wrong as rain....would still like real knowlegable types to chime in....
Thanks to all
Upon further inspection, I found that out of the 8 bolts that hold that thing to the heads, 7 were finger turning loose. only one was snug. I looked at it off and on all day, and did much research, and decided to finger snug them all down.
Then i tried to run it and it ran like cow puckey. Then i reset ol bess with a half hour of no battery w/ headlights on. Changed nothing else. Put the power back to her, and low, she runs like a clock...with the bolts snugged down. Took er on a nice test ride, reset my stations, all seems fine.
We will see what happens when i auto start it at 6 am....its winter here now and nothing like a friday surprise.
I seriously think theyve been loose since birth, and computer compensated for the obvious air leaking. Then when i cut off its "fix" it went nuts, till i erased its memory...now its happy again....
Course i could be wrong as rain....would still like real knowlegable types to chime in....
Thanks to all
#6
What year is your truck? If it is new, then take it to the dealer so a proper torq can be applied. If it's an older version, I bet it is one that had the plastic intake spring a water leak and had to be replaced. Happened on a bunch of ford vehicles in the late 90's that had the plastic intake. Get a manual and find out the torque specs and do it yourself. It's not hard. Just be careful and not overtighten. Or maybe someone on this thread can give you the torque specs.
#7
Originally Posted by blackf-150
Why even fool with it get it back to the dealer
Ill keep folks advised as to how this goes...
Trending Topics
#8
#9
update, all is well
Greetings all,
just a quick heads up. the intake was indeed ready to fly off. the way they handled it, i think they did it during the last repair.
but, all is torqued and restested and now we will see if this thing might get a bit better milage.
Hit 20 below last night here in North Pole, Alaska
I bid you all a good day...
just a quick heads up. the intake was indeed ready to fly off. the way they handled it, i think they did it during the last repair.
but, all is torqued and restested and now we will see if this thing might get a bit better milage.
Hit 20 below last night here in North Pole, Alaska
I bid you all a good day...
#12
At 20 below, maybe your plastic intake won't crack and leak like a lot of them do. My 02 F150 has a reinforced intake on the front where the most heat is absorbed.
Being a long ways from the dealer, if it happens again after the dealer torques the bolts, check into the plastic intake compressing or shrinking at sub-zero temperatures; buy a tech manual and get the torque specs, and invest in a torque wrench.
In super cold weather, even metal bolts and parts can loosen if they have a relatively low torque requirement.
According to my Haynes book, the torque requirement on the 1997 to 2002 4.6 L and 5.4 L intake manifolds is a two step process; and there is a required tightening sequence. Different year engines might require a different process.
Hope this is useful information.
Being a long ways from the dealer, if it happens again after the dealer torques the bolts, check into the plastic intake compressing or shrinking at sub-zero temperatures; buy a tech manual and get the torque specs, and invest in a torque wrench.
In super cold weather, even metal bolts and parts can loosen if they have a relatively low torque requirement.
According to my Haynes book, the torque requirement on the 1997 to 2002 4.6 L and 5.4 L intake manifolds is a two step process; and there is a required tightening sequence. Different year engines might require a different process.
Hope this is useful information.