How do you get the smell of coolant out of the truck (inside)
i had a leak at the heater core and i did not replace it,i cut the heater hoses.smell is coming from the air vents.
since i live in south florida i never even used it anyway but i would like to replace it someday.
thanks

 

the heater core is behind the glove box

you have to take it out and clean out the box

antifreeze will not evaporate and go away by itself
i would not recomend putting a hose in there to flush it out either

...zap!

 

Put a hose into one of the heater core pipes and turn on the water. This will flush the core and the plenum where it leaked. To clean any further you have to pull the dash and scrub the vents and tubing. While you are there might as well replace the core.
JMC

 

JMC, did you see my post regarding the TSB to check for electrolysis and the fix recommended for it? (Might've been in the heating and cooling forum of the *other* F-150 site....)

-Joe

 

Yo Joe, can you post that here I would like to read it.

 

ISSUE:
Some vehicles may exhibit (repeat) heater core leaks. This may be caused by a chemical reaction called electrolysis. Electrolysis involves an ion exchange between the heater core and engine coolant which can result in a breakdown of the heater core material. This is similar to the operation of a battery.

ACTION:
Check for electrolysis on any vehicle with a heater core failure. If electrolysis is verified, flush the coolant and follow additional steps as required. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Electrolysis Inspection

If there is a condition of a heater core leaking or repeat heater core leak, check for electrolysis using the following procedure:

To check for electrolysis use a DVOM set on DC volts. Place the positive probe of the meter in the engine coolant and the negative probe on the negative battery post.
Adjust engine throttle to 2000 RPM to properly get coolant flow and true electrolysis voltages.
If more than .4V is recorded, flush the coolant and recheck (follow guidelines in TSB 98-23-16 for Cougar). See Coolant Fill Procedure below to remove trapped air on 4.6/5.4/6.8L modular engines.
NOTE: EXPORT MARKETS, BE SURE THE WATER IS DESALINATED.



If there is still excessive voltage present in the coolant, check the engine to body/battery grounds. Also, verify proper grounding of any aftermarket electrical/electronic equipment which has been installed into the vehicle. Improperly grounded electrical devices can cause electrolysis to occur.
If the condition is still present after the grounds have been checked, it may be necessary to add extra grounds to the heater core and engine. A hose clamp can be used to secure a 16 AWG stranded copper wire to the heater core inlet tube. The other end should be secured to an EXISTING FASTENER on the body sheet metal. Extra grounds to the engine should be attached between EXISTING FASTENERS on the engine and body sheet metal. Verify continuity of any added grounds to the negative battery terminal.
If the condition is still present, add a restrictor (part F1UZ-18D406-A) on the inlet hose with the arrow facing the direction of coolant flow (toward heater core). Cut the line and install with 2 hose clamps. It is important that the restrictor be installed in the right direction of flow and as close to the engine block as possible (not near the heater core itself).
Coolant Fill Procedure

At times, in order to completely remove any trapped air in the cooling system of vehicles equipped with 4.6/5.4/6.8L modular engines, it may be necessary to use the following procedure:

Disconnect the heater hose at the right front or rear of the engine.
Remove the thermostat and housing.
Using the thermostat opening, carefully fill the engine with the proper clean coolant mixture until observed at the engine side heater hose connection.
Reconnect the heater hose and reinstall the thermostat and housing.
Fill the degas bottle to the coolant fill level mark.
Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperatures.
Select max heat and max blower speed on the climate system.
NOTE: IF THE HEAT OUTPUT IS INSUFFICIENT, OR THE ENGINE DOES NOT REACH NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURES, VERIFY PROPER THERMOSTAT OPERATION AND REPEAT PROCEDURE IF REQUIRED.

 

Thanks Joe, Your the greatest.

 

Joe,

Last check after replacing the core I got .3V. I looked up the price of the restrictor and the Dealer wants $83.00 cdn for it. And he doesn't even supply the vaseline.

JMC

 

I gave up trying Ford's snake oil fixes for electrolysis. I flush 'em out best I can and install an aftermarket copper or brass core. Haven't seen the vehicles I've done since.

 

I have gone through 2 cores that were copper, the factory aluminum one and a replacement aluminum one. This will be the 5th. I am getting tired of this.

JMC

 

Two copper cores? Dammit...I'm used to the Ford aluminum cores dropping like flies, but never a copper one yet.

 

i've never had a heater core go bad in 30 yrs of driving in the manner of what causes failures now... how can this be?

what is so diffrent now that was 30 yrs ago?

you have a engine
radiator
heater core
heater hoses
water pump

why did this NOT happen on a regular basis in the "old dazzzzzzze"

there is no logic to this


my '63 falcon still has the same heater core some 42 yrs later

whats up with that?

so does my wifes '66



...zap!

 

There are a ton more electrical systems in vehicles today. Add to that the fact that our trucks use a variable ground to control the fan speed. What happens when you shut off the truck is that the fan still spins and creats a static charge. There is no place for this to go becasue of the lack of a direct path to ground. The only place for it to go it through to core. Some of the failures can be casued by coolant errosion. The water pump on our trucks flow coolant at a high rate and speed. That is why ford recommends the restrictor if you have elimitated electrolysis as the casue of core failure.

JMC