egr valve insufficient flow code.
I pulled the egr on my wifes 99 5.4 yesterday, cleaned the top and bottom as best as I could, and reinstalled. ran for a day, and cel came on. I hooked up a vacume tube to the top of the egr, and under vacume the engine would drop in rpm's, or die if too much vacume. I have been reading up on this for a couple of days. from what I can tell, the DPFE sensor is bad. does that sound right, due to the vacume test. Basically all that is there, is the big metal tube, down to the ekhaust, with two tubes connected to the dpfe sensor, and through the egr valve. that is the basic system right? where can I find a dpfe sensor, or is there another easy test to rule anything else out? thanks, chris
With a 5.4 it prolly is the DPFE. Was the code a po401? Ford did extend the warranty on the emissions to 5 years so you may be covered. Alot of the older metal DPFE's went bad and were replaced with plastic ones. they cost about $75 at the dealer.
Hello Chris, bet you got a code 401.
What you done is fine. You proved the exhaust flow through the tube is not blocked, the EGR is operational.
That leaves two things left. The EGR control valve and the DPFE.
How it works.
1. If you clear the code only it will come back in three drive cycles by retesting and finding the same condition.
2. The computer commands the EGR control valve to open the EGR on about a 10% duty cycle.
3. At that time the DPFE measures the differential flow accross a calibrated orfice inside the larger tube.
4. This tests for tube blockage, EGR opening, the hoses to the DPFE and the DPFE it'self.
By eliminating all the areas one at a time you come down to the most likley suspect.
With the DPFE off the metal tubes you should feel the exhaust pulses with the engine running also proving the orfice and tube is open to that point and could blow TB cleaner and compressed air in at these points to clear carbon.
I would go ahead and replace the DPFE as long as all the other areas test out for operation and reaction.
It won't hurt to run the truck if the "test sensor" (dpfe) only is faulty.
My 4.6 cost 18.75 but you 'monster motor' cost a bit more like over 30 from my source.
Hint. check out www.DiscountParts.com and give them a call on there 800 number toll free.
Good luck.
What you done is fine. You proved the exhaust flow through the tube is not blocked, the EGR is operational.
That leaves two things left. The EGR control valve and the DPFE.
How it works.
1. If you clear the code only it will come back in three drive cycles by retesting and finding the same condition.
2. The computer commands the EGR control valve to open the EGR on about a 10% duty cycle.
3. At that time the DPFE measures the differential flow accross a calibrated orfice inside the larger tube.
4. This tests for tube blockage, EGR opening, the hoses to the DPFE and the DPFE it'self.
By eliminating all the areas one at a time you come down to the most likley suspect.
With the DPFE off the metal tubes you should feel the exhaust pulses with the engine running also proving the orfice and tube is open to that point and could blow TB cleaner and compressed air in at these points to clear carbon.
I would go ahead and replace the DPFE as long as all the other areas test out for operation and reaction.
It won't hurt to run the truck if the "test sensor" (dpfe) only is faulty.
My 4.6 cost 18.75 but you 'monster motor' cost a bit more like over 30 from my source.
Hint. check out www.DiscountParts.com and give them a call on there 800 number toll free.
Good luck.
I have tried to find the part online, and keep ending up looking at the same page. browse mechanical/collision. I sent them a message, and if the part as they call it is 68 bucks. should hear back from them tomorrow. I also need a set of 8.8 ring bolts, and one of those sensors, that turns your dome light on when you open the door. but that is on my cobra. well see. thanks, chris


