My stuff isn't here yet, but I'd like to go ahead and get started removing the stock fan assembly and pulleys. Yesterday I got the plastic radiator shroud cover off and was checking things out. It looks like the fan shroud is only held in by two 8mm bolts and it should slide up and out, but the fan itself is in the way. Where from / how do you remove the fan assembly? I didn't want to start messing with it because I was afraid if I removed the fan, I would have a hard time getting one of the pulleys off or vise-versa. Just wondering what order I need to do these things in since I'm doing fans / pulleys at the same time and don't yet have Troyer's instructions. Thanks!!!

BTW, I already rented the 2 - 3 jaw puller from Advance Auto.

 

Ohhhh....special tool time. There is a wrench designed to remove the fan/clutch assembly.

I don't know the ford part# but any good auto parts store should have one.

Good luck........

 

I'd wait for the instructions. Getting everything out of the engine bay wasn't the hard part when I installed my e-fans on my 00' truck. It was attaching the fans to the radiator that was hard!

 

Special tool? Looks like a huge wrench or channel locks / cresent wrench will work if it's the one fat nut I'm thinking it is. People on here say it's reverse threaded, and standard threaded both...any idea which it is? I know attaching the new ones is the hard part...that's why I'd like to have the piddley ***** outta the way first. Do you have to remove the radiator or anything else but the fan and shroud?

 

I just installed the TP efans over the last weekend. First disconnect the battery and remove the battery tray(do NOT set the battery on the concrete floor - set it on some type of board to keep it from discharging). Then remove radiator cover. Then remove the air intake track, filter element and MAF and disconnecting the IAT sensor.

You then loosen the factory mechanical fan by "breaking" the nut loose. I used the rental tool kit from Autozone. Be careful, because when mine let loose my right elbow came crashing back against the left radiator mount leaving a big gash and bruise on my elbow - OUCHHHHH !

Once the fan is loose, remove the two 8mm bolts holding the fan shroud. Lift the fan shroud up a few inches and spin the mechanical fan off the water pump pulley (counter clockwise). Carefully pull the detached fan up and out of the engine bay before the shroud. Then remove the shroud. This is what is in the TP installation instructions - though, mine listed here is VERY abbreviated. Troyers instructions are very precise with pictures. I hope this helps you - let me know if I can help some more.

Oh, ya, you should remove the radiator to mount the fans it will save your knuckles and blood supply. Just do a search on efans and you will find a wealth of information.

Good luck on your install

Jeff

 

Thanks man, I searched, but nothing about the removal...must not have used the right keywords. Why does the battery and tray have to come out? They seem so far out of the way I can't see why. I have a WMS intake so I am going to try to sneak the fans past it w/o removal if at all possible. What tool are you referring to? Something to hold the pulley like a strap wrench? What nut do you loosen...the main center nut on the fan "shaft"? Counter-clockwise like you'd think or reverse? Thanks man!!!

Oh yeah, if I remove the radiator, do imagine I'd have to disconnect the hoses right? That sucks...just did the DIY flush and refill two weeks ago. I'll try to avoid that as well. Do you have to push the rods through from the front to back? I can barely get my hands between it and the AC radiator more than 6" down from the top.

 

I hope you invested in a 1-3/4" overdrive alt pulley...

 

Why's that? Troyer's pulleys only include 2, and they are made specifically for the F-150's, not the Stang 4.6's. They also bump my idle about 100 rpm's (in the custom tune) to get the alternator back to full output at idle, and that's only because I am running a 1,432W amp and have the 33's and e-fans too.

 

Hey Jackal,

You asked:
"I searched, but nothing about the removal...must not have used the right keywords"

Do a search for efans, or Troyer efans and you will get a whole slew of information.

"Why does the battery and tray have to come out? They seem so far out of the way I can't see why. I have a WMS intake so I am going to try to sneak the fans past it w/o removal if at all possible"

It's to make room for your fan controls and to run the wires from your fan controls to the power dist. box to tie into an ignition on and a/c control signals - don't fret, the installation instructions are very good. Also, your washer fluid resevoir has to be removed for the same reasons.

The tools that I used were the fan/clutch removal tools designed to do the job. But if you do the search you will get other methods that work just as well to remove the fan and fan/clutch assemble. The nut I removed was the fan nut that attaches the fan to the water pump pully. To remove, turn COUNTERCLOCKWISE - lefty loosey, righty tighty.

I would HIGHLY recommend you remove the radiator to mount the fans - there is just not enough room to push the mounting pin keepers from the front of the radiator (especially without crushing the little "fins").

The efan mounting rods get pushed from the engine side towards the front grill (a/c condensor) where they are held in place by rubber keepers.

Hope this answers all your questions - Good Luck!

Jeff

 

This was true of phenolic cased batteries of old but is no longer an issue. I was taught the same thing by my elders but have since been corrected.

http://www.ibsa.com/www_2001/content...9_techtalk.htm

 

I did my TP fans about 18 months ago. One thing I changed was how lead from one of the controller splices into the A/C compressor clutch wire. They used a standard "burrito" clip type splice. I used one that has a quick disconnect on it and the splice on the other end. Helpful if yo do any work in the future as you can disconnect it without risk of tearing the wire out.

 

Fan and Fan shroud have to go in and come out together. No other way of doing it, unless you remove the radiator.

Link to Ford Fan clutch wrench set:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi06.html

 

Norm - good point, I stand corrected (but that's what is in the instruction)

jaymay75 - Not true. I had the radiator in when I removed the fan and fanclutch. Once the fan/fanclutch assembly was removed, I then removed the fan shroud. . Once the fan and shroud was removed, I then removed the radiator.

Jeff

 

I take it you've never used underdrive pulley(s) before. 100rpm at idle isn't enough to overcome a 25% slower spinning crank even if your idle is ~700rpm... you'd need to be well over 1000rpm to overcome that. If the crank pulley is smaller than making for less than 25% underdrive, there's not really a reason to be swapping them.

An overdrive alt pulley is only around $14, you'd be wise to invest in one.

Does the truck have a 105A or 130A alt... or has this been upgraded?

 

Newp...I'm going by what Mike T says about his products:

"This is from our Street Series of pulleys, so only 850 rpm is required for normal alternator output. Compatible with our Troyer Performance/Performance Products Inc. Electric Fan Kit."

"There is an option that a number of people have had us do for them in this situation (where you have already upgraded to a bigger alternator, but still don't have enough power at idle), and that is to have us do a custom tune for your truck - for the automatic transmission models, we can just bump up the idle speed in gear - we can move it up in the program just enough so you've got sufficient alternator output, power steering output & A/C performance in summertime, when idling in gear.

For those with manual trannys, they obviously don't have an "in gear" idle speed adjustment, they just have the basic idle speed parameter - so we just bump that up a bit and that takes care of allowing them to run the pulleys they want along with a lot of other things like electric fans & underdrive pulleys, big stereos, a lot of auxiliary lighting, etc. - even all of that combined. Some of these trucks will also have power steering idle "switches" as well as A/C idle speed adders - and if the truck has that, then we also have control over that, too - like if someone has 37" tires & has to parallel park frequently, we can just increase the amount of idle speed added *only* when the pressure in the power steering pump hits a certain level, or only when the A/C compressor clutch is engaged, etc."

I'm not sure about which Alt. I have...always assumed 130A. Any easy to tell? I'll ask Mike about the Alt. overdrive, but on the phone, he assured me I would still have the same output as before at idle, with it bumped. (Not max...I should have worded it differently.)