using oil
using oil
Hey
I have a 02 Supercrew . 4.6 l 2vavle . with 17,000 miles on it bought it new . only to dealer for oil changes , under 3 k per service never over , motorcraft 5w-20 uses 1 to 2 quarts of oil bteween changes , doent leak at all . However it has the Piston slap noise that they were supposed to cure . it knocks at cold 5 to 7 minutes at idle ,Dealer wont do nothing at all for oil or knock . im quite discusted . i took to other dealers they told me not to bring truck back . take it to the dealer i bought it from , ford cust care a joke im quite pissed about the whole thing
I have a 02 Supercrew . 4.6 l 2vavle . with 17,000 miles on it bought it new . only to dealer for oil changes , under 3 k per service never over , motorcraft 5w-20 uses 1 to 2 quarts of oil bteween changes , doent leak at all . However it has the Piston slap noise that they were supposed to cure . it knocks at cold 5 to 7 minutes at idle ,Dealer wont do nothing at all for oil or knock . im quite discusted . i took to other dealers they told me not to bring truck back . take it to the dealer i bought it from , ford cust care a joke im quite pissed about the whole thing
find a GOOD local garage that services trucks and listen to what they think is the problem and let them deal with it...if your still under warrenty(probably not) then bring the results to the dealership anyway and show them how incompent they are....i did it to mine where i bought my truck(brakes) and they did not know what to say...piece of mind for you...zap!
Don't blame you at all for being pi$$ed about those issues and the way you have been handled by the different dealers....
However, Ford won't consider an engine as being an "oil burner" unless it uses a qt in less then 1000 miles (so I've read).....
As far as;
The only "cure" for that is a new 'remanufactured' engine as far as I know......
If you do have that 'slap' noise for 5-7 minutes at start up, the best thing to do is not let it idle for that 5-7 minutes.... The engine needs to heat up so that all the parts expand or do whatever they do when it heats up. IMO, start it up, let the idle settle (about 15-30 seconds) and go..... The engine will heat up much faster when it's under load and that's just that much LESS wear and tear on the pistons and cylinders, if it is indeed the 'slap'n'.....
I've got 141,000 miles on my 5.4 and it's used 1 qt every 3k miles since I got it with 62,000 miles on it. I'm running Mobil 1 and change every 6k miles. Add a qt at the 3k mark. No big deal.
I've been starting it up and going once the idle settles and while I don't go WOT with it cold, I do take it easy until it warms up......
Good luck!!
Mitch
However, Ford won't consider an engine as being an "oil burner" unless it uses a qt in less then 1000 miles (so I've read).....
As far as;
However it has the Piston slap noise that they were supposed to cure
If you do have that 'slap' noise for 5-7 minutes at start up, the best thing to do is not let it idle for that 5-7 minutes.... The engine needs to heat up so that all the parts expand or do whatever they do when it heats up. IMO, start it up, let the idle settle (about 15-30 seconds) and go..... The engine will heat up much faster when it's under load and that's just that much LESS wear and tear on the pistons and cylinders, if it is indeed the 'slap'n'.....
I've got 141,000 miles on my 5.4 and it's used 1 qt every 3k miles since I got it with 62,000 miles on it. I'm running Mobil 1 and change every 6k miles. Add a qt at the 3k mark. No big deal.
I've been starting it up and going once the idle settles and while I don't go WOT with it cold, I do take it easy until it warms up......
Good luck!!
Mitch
If you are gonna go right after starting it, go easy like mitch says, as you need a minute or two for the oil to start circulating well.
As for oil consumption, my mom's van with the same 4.6l uses about the same as yours(maybe a little more), and has done it since we got it with 70k on it. It now has 95k on it and it does not smoke or anything, might have slight piston slap when it's really cold, but no reliability problems. Some trucks use oil and some don't, looks like you got one that does, it is not something to judge the reliability of the motor upon, and some suggest that the ones that do use oil last longer, however I don't know that their is any real evidence either way.
Call up ford customer care and ask them if you have to bring the truck back to where you bought it. I really doubt it since it is under warranty(isnt it?), afaik you can take it to any dealer that does work.
As for oil consumption, my mom's van with the same 4.6l uses about the same as yours(maybe a little more), and has done it since we got it with 70k on it. It now has 95k on it and it does not smoke or anything, might have slight piston slap when it's really cold, but no reliability problems. Some trucks use oil and some don't, looks like you got one that does, it is not something to judge the reliability of the motor upon, and some suggest that the ones that do use oil last longer, however I don't know that their is any real evidence either way.
Call up ford customer care and ask them if you have to bring the truck back to where you bought it. I really doubt it since it is under warranty(isnt it?), afaik you can take it to any dealer that does work.
Last edited by Schism9; May 5, 2005 at 05:52 PM.
HI
Thanks for your info Yes its still under warranty , the truck was back to the dealer @about 400 miles on knock they ve been blowing it off & ford goes only by what the dealer says i ve reqested a traveling reginal represenitive that the dealer denied me to see ..it just gets me mad on how expensive these new trucks are and what service you actually get .. if i keep it ill proabaly buy the ESP plan so its not a headache .. BTW in for rear end whine . tranny 1-2 shift clunk . electrical issues ,and keyfob locks .( serv tech told me 15 feet range was normal i laughed at him ) which they did fix . it sucks cuz i love the truck too ..
Thanks for your info Yes its still under warranty , the truck was back to the dealer @about 400 miles on knock they ve been blowing it off & ford goes only by what the dealer says i ve reqested a traveling reginal represenitive that the dealer denied me to see ..it just gets me mad on how expensive these new trucks are and what service you actually get .. if i keep it ill proabaly buy the ESP plan so its not a headache .. BTW in for rear end whine . tranny 1-2 shift clunk . electrical issues ,and keyfob locks .( serv tech told me 15 feet range was normal i laughed at him ) which they did fix . it sucks cuz i love the truck too ..
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Well the reason the dealer is not going to fix the knocking is cause they will have to take the motor apart.(I'm not defending them.) Plus they probably aren't authorized to do it anyway, Ford only likes to fix problems that are more than annoyances, your two problems stated in your first post are just that.(Because there is no real evidence they cause reliability problems) Again, i'm not defending them, and if you think goin' with chevy or dodge would of been better(not really saying you have), think again, they are the same way for the most part I believe. However if you got a toyota tundra..
You haven't clearly stated whether you have called Ford, unless I missed it, if you haven't do so it's worth a shot. If you have taken that shot already, then I guess you are s.o.l.
You haven't clearly stated whether you have called Ford, unless I missed it, if you haven't do so it's worth a shot. If you have taken that shot already, then I guess you are s.o.l.
As frustrating as it may be, a quart of oil every 900 miles is normal per Ford specs and has been for years.
From the '99 service manual:
Oil Consumption Test
The following diagnostic procedure is used to determine the source of excessive internal oil consumption.
NOTE: Oil use is normally greater during the first 16,100 km (10,000 miles) of service. As mileage increases, oil use generally decreases. Vehicles in normal service should get at least 1,450 km per liter (900 miles per quart) after 16,000 km (10,000 miles) of service. High speed driving, towing, high ambient temperature and other factors may result in greater oil use.
Define excessive oil consumption, such as the number of miles driven per liter (quart) of oil used. Also determine customer's driving habits, such as sustained high speed operation, towing, extended idle and other considerations.
Verify that the engine has no external oil leak as described under Engine Oil Leaks in the Diagnosis and Testing portion of this section.
Verify that the engine has the correct oil level dipstick (6750).
Verify that the engine is not being run in an overfilled condition. Check the oil level at least five minutes after a hot shutdown with the vehicle parked on a level surface. In no case should the level be above MAX or the letter F in FULL. If significantly overfilled, carry out Steps 6a through 6d.
Verify the spark plugs are not oil saturated. If the spark plugs are oil saturated and compression is good it can be assumed the valve seals or valve guides are at fault.
Carry out an oil consumption test:
Drain the engine oil, remove the oil bypass filter (6714) and refill with one liter (quart) less than the recommended amount.
Run the engine for three minutes (10 minutes if cold), and allow the oil to drain back for at least five minutes with the vehicle on a level surface.
Remove oil level dipstick and wipe clean. (Do not wipe with anything contaminated with silicone compounds.) Reinstall the oil level dipstick, being sure to seat it firmly in the oil level indicator tube (6754). Remove the oil level dipstick and draw a mark on the back (unmarked) surface at the indicated oil level. This level should be about the same as the MIN or ADD mark on the face of the oil level dipstick.
Add one liter (quart) of oil. Restart the engine and allow to idle for at least two minutes. Shut off the engine and allow the oil to drain back for at least five minutes. Mark the oil level dipstick, using the procedure above.
Record the vehicle mileage.
Instruct the customer to drive the vehicle as usual and perform the following:
Check the oil level regularly at intervals of 160 to 240 km (100-150 miles).
Return to the service point when the oil level drops below the lower (MIN or ADD) mark on the oil level dipstick.
Add only full liters (quarts) of the same oil in an emergency. Note the mileage at which the oil is added.
Check the oil level under the same conditions and at the same location as in Steps 6c and 6d.
Measure the distance from the oil level to the UPPER mark on the oil level dipstick and record.
Measure the distance between the two scribe marks and record.
Divide the first measurement by the second.
Divide the distance driven during the oil test by the result. This quantity is the approximate oil consumption rate in kilometers per liter or in miles per quart.
If the oil consumption rate is unacceptable, go to Step 7.
Check the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. Make sure the system is not plugged.
Check for plugged oil drain-back holes in the cylinder heads and cylinder block.
If the condition still exists after performing the above steps, go to Step 10.
Perform a cylinder compression test or perform a cylinder leak detection test with Engine Cylinder Leak Detection/Air Pressurization Kit. This can help determine the source of oil consumption such as valves, piston rings or other areas.
NOTE: After determining if new parts should be installed, make sure correct parts are used.
Check valve guides for excessive guide clearance. Install new all valve stem seals (6571) after verifying valve guide clearance.
Worn or damaged internal engine components can cause excessive oil consumption. Small deposits of oil on the tips of spark plugs can be a clue to internal oil consumption. If internal oil consumption still persists, proceed as follows:
Remove the engine from the vehicle and place it on an engine work stand. Remove the intake manifolds (9424), cylinder heads, oil pan (6675) and oil pump (6600).
Check piston ring clearance, ring gap and ring orientation. Repair as necessary.
Check for excessive bearing clearance. Repair as necessary.
Repeat the oil consumption test (Step 6) to confirm the oil consumption concern has been resolved.
From the '99 service manual:
Oil Consumption Test
The following diagnostic procedure is used to determine the source of excessive internal oil consumption.
NOTE: Oil use is normally greater during the first 16,100 km (10,000 miles) of service. As mileage increases, oil use generally decreases. Vehicles in normal service should get at least 1,450 km per liter (900 miles per quart) after 16,000 km (10,000 miles) of service. High speed driving, towing, high ambient temperature and other factors may result in greater oil use.
Define excessive oil consumption, such as the number of miles driven per liter (quart) of oil used. Also determine customer's driving habits, such as sustained high speed operation, towing, extended idle and other considerations.
Verify that the engine has no external oil leak as described under Engine Oil Leaks in the Diagnosis and Testing portion of this section.
Verify that the engine has the correct oil level dipstick (6750).
Verify that the engine is not being run in an overfilled condition. Check the oil level at least five minutes after a hot shutdown with the vehicle parked on a level surface. In no case should the level be above MAX or the letter F in FULL. If significantly overfilled, carry out Steps 6a through 6d.
Verify the spark plugs are not oil saturated. If the spark plugs are oil saturated and compression is good it can be assumed the valve seals or valve guides are at fault.
Carry out an oil consumption test:
Drain the engine oil, remove the oil bypass filter (6714) and refill with one liter (quart) less than the recommended amount.
Run the engine for three minutes (10 minutes if cold), and allow the oil to drain back for at least five minutes with the vehicle on a level surface.
Remove oil level dipstick and wipe clean. (Do not wipe with anything contaminated with silicone compounds.) Reinstall the oil level dipstick, being sure to seat it firmly in the oil level indicator tube (6754). Remove the oil level dipstick and draw a mark on the back (unmarked) surface at the indicated oil level. This level should be about the same as the MIN or ADD mark on the face of the oil level dipstick.
Add one liter (quart) of oil. Restart the engine and allow to idle for at least two minutes. Shut off the engine and allow the oil to drain back for at least five minutes. Mark the oil level dipstick, using the procedure above.
Record the vehicle mileage.
Instruct the customer to drive the vehicle as usual and perform the following:
Check the oil level regularly at intervals of 160 to 240 km (100-150 miles).
Return to the service point when the oil level drops below the lower (MIN or ADD) mark on the oil level dipstick.
Add only full liters (quarts) of the same oil in an emergency. Note the mileage at which the oil is added.
Check the oil level under the same conditions and at the same location as in Steps 6c and 6d.
Measure the distance from the oil level to the UPPER mark on the oil level dipstick and record.
Measure the distance between the two scribe marks and record.
Divide the first measurement by the second.
Divide the distance driven during the oil test by the result. This quantity is the approximate oil consumption rate in kilometers per liter or in miles per quart.
If the oil consumption rate is unacceptable, go to Step 7.
Check the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. Make sure the system is not plugged.
Check for plugged oil drain-back holes in the cylinder heads and cylinder block.
If the condition still exists after performing the above steps, go to Step 10.
Perform a cylinder compression test or perform a cylinder leak detection test with Engine Cylinder Leak Detection/Air Pressurization Kit. This can help determine the source of oil consumption such as valves, piston rings or other areas.
NOTE: After determining if new parts should be installed, make sure correct parts are used.
Check valve guides for excessive guide clearance. Install new all valve stem seals (6571) after verifying valve guide clearance.
Worn or damaged internal engine components can cause excessive oil consumption. Small deposits of oil on the tips of spark plugs can be a clue to internal oil consumption. If internal oil consumption still persists, proceed as follows:
Remove the engine from the vehicle and place it on an engine work stand. Remove the intake manifolds (9424), cylinder heads, oil pan (6675) and oil pump (6600).
Check piston ring clearance, ring gap and ring orientation. Repair as necessary.
Check for excessive bearing clearance. Repair as necessary.
Repeat the oil consumption test (Step 6) to confirm the oil consumption concern has been resolved.
Hello
Yes thanks for all the information , Yes i have called Ford customer care line a few times which btw from my understanding they are 3rd party subcontractors & dont actually work for Fo Mo Co , i have quite a mechanical background & understand engines quite well
Its just that you kind of expect little issues with a new vehicle & a trip or 2 to the dealer to get them fixed , but not a knocking oil drinking engine , rear end whines , tranny clunks i would have thought the technology & engineering would have been better or perhaps they are and the production tolerances just exceed specs and somtimes they all end up in the same truck namley mine LOL
However i cant afford the repair of a major compnent failure ( Engine transmission etc etc ) so i ll probably exercize the ESP plan from ford direct its much much cheaper than the dealers price
I do want to push this engine issue farher im just stuck at a uncoperative local dealer network . i want Ford to see & hear it , & make some decision ..
I guess Mobil 1 rules in the oil dept ? after morocraft warranty is up .
Thank a ton guys ill keep ya posted
02 screw xlt 2 tone
bedliner & tanneau cover
Yes thanks for all the information , Yes i have called Ford customer care line a few times which btw from my understanding they are 3rd party subcontractors & dont actually work for Fo Mo Co , i have quite a mechanical background & understand engines quite well
Its just that you kind of expect little issues with a new vehicle & a trip or 2 to the dealer to get them fixed , but not a knocking oil drinking engine , rear end whines , tranny clunks i would have thought the technology & engineering would have been better or perhaps they are and the production tolerances just exceed specs and somtimes they all end up in the same truck namley mine LOL
However i cant afford the repair of a major compnent failure ( Engine transmission etc etc ) so i ll probably exercize the ESP plan from ford direct its much much cheaper than the dealers price
I do want to push this engine issue farher im just stuck at a uncoperative local dealer network . i want Ford to see & hear it , & make some decision ..
I guess Mobil 1 rules in the oil dept ? after morocraft warranty is up .
Thank a ton guys ill keep ya posted
02 screw xlt 2 tone
bedliner & tanneau cover
The main problem is that ford knows about these knocking, oil drinking motors, but does not care, heck the big 3 does not really care if your motor is making noise or burning oil when it is well documented, and there have been minimal issues because of it.(They just don't wanna mess with it cause it would cost them millions to fix them all.) Basically, buy the longer warranty and be happy, or disappointed, whatever you like. Ford is not going to fix your issue afaik, and none of the dealers are going to do it, unless you find some way to make them. I'm sorry to tell you that, in all honesty and I know this is blasphemy as far as saying this on these forums, but if you want a vehicle with maybe fewer problems, but almost definately better service, go with an import brand. Nissan, Toyota(have heard problems with their service in the past, but I think that is just that, the past.) or Honda.
I love Ford, but I can honestly say they are not for everyone. Especially people that are picky with service.(Though every brand, even luxury/import brands have had problems in the service area, but they tend to have less.)
I know I repeated myself in some places, but it is the truth, Ford knows, and cares not.
I love Ford, but I can honestly say they are not for everyone. Especially people that are picky with service.(Though every brand, even luxury/import brands have had problems in the service area, but they tend to have less.)
I know I repeated myself in some places, but it is the truth, Ford knows, and cares not.
Last edited by Schism9; May 7, 2005 at 01:10 AM.
I can only say that with a 60'000 mile 4.6 in a 2001 supercrew with a leaking head gasket I have never had the oil drop at all on the stick I might add that I do have a powerdyne supercharger installed on the truck I bought the truck used from a ford dealer, and they are actually wnting to take care of the head gasket leak under ford warrenty yet as there is a known problem, the only thing I hate to touch anything that is not a major problem.
If this problem realy bothers you and you are deffanitly in warenty make shure the opil has been changed at you're servicing dealership drive it for a couple thousand miles to get some color in the oil, drain the oil into a clean container and save, take the truck for a ride after it locks up reinstall the oil without spilling any and call road side assistance. It will be new engine time.
If this problem realy bothers you and you are deffanitly in warenty make shure the opil has been changed at you're servicing dealership drive it for a couple thousand miles to get some color in the oil, drain the oil into a clean container and save, take the truck for a ride after it locks up reinstall the oil without spilling any and call road side assistance. It will be new engine time.



but runs great.