Engine Swap
Engine Swap
Okay, here is the deal. I know a little about what I'm doing...but not enough. I know what I have and what I want to do.
I have a 1992 F150 with an inline six that has 170K on it. This fall, I want to drop in a 302 and keep the manual transmission.
Below is a list of what I have so far. If you have time, could you look over the list and let me know other things I still have to get. I know there are a few and know a couple of things off the top of my head. But second opinions by those that know more are invaluable. Also, do you know of any problems that I may encounter. Will the transmission in it (stock 5 spd) handle the torque of a 302, or will I need to find a tranny also?
Okay, what I have (all off a 91 Mustang 302 stock - owner swapped out parts for performance parts):
Air Intake - upper and lower parts
Throttle Body and Spacer
Water Pump
Timing Chain gears and chain
Starter
Fly Wheel (he said 50oz - ???)
Fan
Headers
MAS
Motor Mounts
Clutch kit
Fuel Rails
Valve Covers
Valve Train
Out of things I need - will any of it swap from the I-6? Will any of the parts I have fit "onto" the I-6. This is just a general knowledge question.
What would you expect to pay for a 302 block? Would you recommend used, rebuilt, or new? That may be a no brainer - just wanting some suggestions.
Thanks again - I was a member of this site a long time ago, but couldn't remember my logon so I had to re-up. Use to be in the Oklahoma club - but not very active. Any help will be appreciated.
I have a 1992 F150 with an inline six that has 170K on it. This fall, I want to drop in a 302 and keep the manual transmission.
Below is a list of what I have so far. If you have time, could you look over the list and let me know other things I still have to get. I know there are a few and know a couple of things off the top of my head. But second opinions by those that know more are invaluable. Also, do you know of any problems that I may encounter. Will the transmission in it (stock 5 spd) handle the torque of a 302, or will I need to find a tranny also?
Okay, what I have (all off a 91 Mustang 302 stock - owner swapped out parts for performance parts):
Air Intake - upper and lower parts
Throttle Body and Spacer
Water Pump
Timing Chain gears and chain
Starter
Fly Wheel (he said 50oz - ???)
Fan
Headers
MAS
Motor Mounts
Clutch kit
Fuel Rails
Valve Covers
Valve Train
Out of things I need - will any of it swap from the I-6? Will any of the parts I have fit "onto" the I-6. This is just a general knowledge question.
What would you expect to pay for a 302 block? Would you recommend used, rebuilt, or new? That may be a no brainer - just wanting some suggestions.
Thanks again - I was a member of this site a long time ago, but couldn't remember my logon so I had to re-up. Use to be in the Oklahoma club - but not very active. Any help will be appreciated.
Keep the 300/6!!! 
Best MOTOR EVAR!!!!!111!!one!!
<nah2323 300/6 owner.
btw a 50oz (3.125lb) flywheel will break your neck when you let off the gas. i also have a built car with an 8lb flywheel, and it hurts when i let off.

Best MOTOR EVAR!!!!!111!!one!!
<nah2323 300/6 owner.
btw a 50oz (3.125lb) flywheel will break your neck when you let off the gas. i also have a built car with an 8lb flywheel, and it hurts when i let off.
Last edited by nah2323; Apr 6, 2005 at 11:20 PM.
Actually, I was just talking to my dad who is a 2nd gen mech and he said the same thing.
So okay, I'm gonna just have the 6 rebuilt. Any guesses on how much I'd have to spend in parts? If I were just to take it in to a mech, what am I lookin at (ballpark figure)?
Any help would be appreciated.
So okay, I'm gonna just have the 6 rebuilt. Any guesses on how much I'd have to spend in parts? If I were just to take it in to a mech, what am I lookin at (ballpark figure)?
Any help would be appreciated.
What you will have to pay to have the I-6 rebuilt will depend on what all you have done to it and the pricing of labor, parts, etc. of the individual mechanic. Why are you having it rebuilt? Is it knocking, smoking, locked up? If you just want it refurbed a bit an engine rebuild kit (whick contains gaskets rings etc.) would run you a couple hundred bucks if you could do it yourself. If you need the block honed, new crank, new pistons, connecting rods, and pretty much the whole bottom end, I would suggest just buying a long block (meaning it would be a complete block, crank, pistons, rods, cam, the whole nine yards, with the head in place) from Jasper Motors out of Jasper, Georgia (seeing as how you are in Augusta) They specialize in re-built drive train and usually give a 36/36 warranty. The I-6 is not a horribly complex motor and that is part of what makes it so great. I believe with just a basic mechanical knowledge and a little advice from your pops you could probably do what you need on your own given you have the time and access to the proper tools. Anyway sorry to be so long winded hope it all works out for you.
I aprreciate your response. Long winded is good - more information.
I'm really not sure what I need done. Right now it seems okay, but it runs through spark plugs like crazy and runs really rough. It's great for running around town, and it has always served me well on long trips (from Dallas to GA, from MS to GA, from OK to Dallas, from OKC to MS...)
Well, now I don't know if I trust it on a long trip. Just doesn't seem to run right...can't explain it. Just rough. The shifter rattles back and forth - I've tried a lot of the things suggested here given those conditions (had a post a while back under my other user name - which I can't remember). Anyway, couldn't find the reason for the roughness.
I guess I'm just being overly protective. But I have to PCS in January and I'll have to drive it to wherever (throw a dart at the US). I'll also be pulling a bass boat. Just don't know if I trust it to do it w/ the 170K sitting on it. Tranny seems to shift fine...really there are no "problems" with the engine. Does need a new muffler and a few other little things. It does smoke pretty bad out of the exhaust and the second fuel pump needs changed out. Can't use the second fuel tank. All in all, it's a beautiful truck that I want to hang onto and was looking at the best way to keep it running strong for a while. I want a truck I can pack up and haul my boat to anywhere I want w/out fear of getting stranded, or catching the Tranny on fire, or the engine falling out.
Maybe I have that now...but I just don't 'trust' it.
I'm really not sure what I need done. Right now it seems okay, but it runs through spark plugs like crazy and runs really rough. It's great for running around town, and it has always served me well on long trips (from Dallas to GA, from MS to GA, from OK to Dallas, from OKC to MS...)
Well, now I don't know if I trust it on a long trip. Just doesn't seem to run right...can't explain it. Just rough. The shifter rattles back and forth - I've tried a lot of the things suggested here given those conditions (had a post a while back under my other user name - which I can't remember). Anyway, couldn't find the reason for the roughness.
I guess I'm just being overly protective. But I have to PCS in January and I'll have to drive it to wherever (throw a dart at the US). I'll also be pulling a bass boat. Just don't know if I trust it to do it w/ the 170K sitting on it. Tranny seems to shift fine...really there are no "problems" with the engine. Does need a new muffler and a few other little things. It does smoke pretty bad out of the exhaust and the second fuel pump needs changed out. Can't use the second fuel tank. All in all, it's a beautiful truck that I want to hang onto and was looking at the best way to keep it running strong for a while. I want a truck I can pack up and haul my boat to anywhere I want w/out fear of getting stranded, or catching the Tranny on fire, or the engine falling out.
Maybe I have that now...but I just don't 'trust' it.
Instead of rebuilding, you may want to consider a Jasper remanufactured engine. I just got one for my '89 5.0. It'll cost about the same as a rebuild, but it'll probably end up better and it's a quicker turn around time (I pulled my engine and had the new one, ready to go, the next day).
It would cost about $1700 for your application.
www.jasperengines.com
Hope this helps,
Kyle
It would cost about $1700 for your application.
www.jasperengines.com
Hope this helps,
Kyle
I would agree with kylek that you may be more pleased with turn around time if you went with a Jasper motor, however in my opinion, you could have a rebuild done on it for less than $1700 as long as you do not have to replace pistons, connecting rods, cam, head etc. With the symptoms you described I would look at a rebuild kit, which would contain new piston rings, new head gasket, etc. If you have been having spark plugs foul out I would probably inspect the pistons and replace them as needed also. I am a big fan of the Jasper motors but they are a little pricey and as long as your motor isn't knocking I would just tear it down and inspect it before buying a long block from Jasper. It could possibly just need the new seals, gaskets, rings, etc. and you could have a solid motor at a fraction of the cost. Plus as has been my experience it is always better to start off with the cheaper solutions first and if you get half way through the tear down and find more troubles the only thing you are out is what, maybe a Saturday or a couple of evenings. Nonetheless I would just inspect everything as I tore it down. If you do decide to go with a completely new motor I would check with Precision Motor and Transmission out of Columbus, GA. or just do an internet search of the yellow pages for engine rebuilders closer to you. Precision Engine Rebuilders, if I'm not mistaken, used to be Leggit motors and I have bought motors from them that they warrantied much longer than others plus they were a great deal cheaper. Good luck, if there are any other questions we are all here to help.
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Just got off the phone w/ my Dad. His uncle lives in Pasc., MS and owns his own shop. He asked him how much he could rebuild it for since he lives closer to me. He said he couldn't do it for under 2,000 (his cost - since family - he'll do it for free).
Little more than I expected...he said I'm looking at almost 4,000 to put a V-8 in it...said even the wiring under dash will have to be redone.
Anyway, my truck is a 92. They said for the age of the truck...I might be better to just find an I-6 somewhere with low mileage on it and drop it in. I know my Dad did this for me on a 90 model I had when I was younger.
I'm just trying to get my truck to last longer. Figure I can spend the money on a nice truck rather than buy something else. I just want to be able to pull my bass boat across country without worrying about it breaking down.
So many options - buy a rem. engine, rebuild, rebuild kit, or just find a used low mileage engine. I'm leaning toward a used, clean, low mileage engine.
Little more than I expected...he said I'm looking at almost 4,000 to put a V-8 in it...said even the wiring under dash will have to be redone.
Anyway, my truck is a 92. They said for the age of the truck...I might be better to just find an I-6 somewhere with low mileage on it and drop it in. I know my Dad did this for me on a 90 model I had when I was younger.
I'm just trying to get my truck to last longer. Figure I can spend the money on a nice truck rather than buy something else. I just want to be able to pull my bass boat across country without worrying about it breaking down.
So many options - buy a rem. engine, rebuild, rebuild kit, or just find a used low mileage engine. I'm leaning toward a used, clean, low mileage engine.
I actually thought about that as I made my last post and the only reason I didn't post that suggestion was because so many people shy away from them. Personally, it is probably the route that I would go.... Good Luck.


