I currently have a 200 F150 with the 4.6.
I've noticed theres a mis going on lately.
Now I'm getting ready to tune this bugger up but I'm confused and a little worried.

I'm getting ready to change the plugs, and everyone I've talked to says I'm crazy for doing this myself.
Are these really that bad?

The truck has 75,000 and I've changed plugs and tuned up other autos before. (So I'm not lacking to much experiance)
From what i can see, I'd pull the coil and take the plugs out from there. is this wrong?

 

Heh,

People are right.
My coworker asked me if I could change the plugs on his 99 Expedition 5.4L. I figured sure, why not... it's just plugs. I would assume the change would be pretty much the same as your motor

I don't know what retarded engineers Ford has working for them.... but they sure worked aweful hard on making it a big PITA.

The easiest way I found to do the job was with a few assorted length extensions, a universal, a 7mm socket and a 5/8" spark plug socket.
On the driver side unbolt the fuel rail (not sure how to relieve pressure on the newer motors, older ones had a shraeder valve) and put a shop rag around the #5 injector and carefully and slowly pull up. Any pressure will release and gas will leak out.
Carefully do this with each injector. Try to just pull it off the top of the injector and not pull out the injector from the head itself.
This allows much much easier access to the driver side plugs.

On the passenger side, the #3 and 4 plugs are the biggest PITA.
The fuel rail can stay in place as it is out of the way on that side (why they could not have done this on the driver side I will never know)

the #1/2 are pretty easy to get at, but 3 and 4 are tricky since they are underneath the cowl.
this is where the universal and various extensions come in handy.
A retractable magnet is also good to pull out the 7mm bolt once its loosened up.
Then, make sure you get the plugs in plenty tight... you don't want to have the plug blow out problem I keep hearing so much about (unless thats only a 5.4L thing?)

Good luck!

-Chris

 

Chris,
Thanks for the info.
Just as i thought, I figured I'd have my work cut out.
But just like anything else, theres always a tight fit somewhere.
But I'm still set on doign this myself, rather than paying my local dealership $800.00........................

Thanks, Cal

 

4.6 is not that bad to change get a 7mm swivel socket no need to remove fuel rails. get little things out of the way remove coils one by one and plugs have a good plug socket a couple differant lengths of extensions a good ratchet some dieletric grase for the plug boots. easier to do on a cooler engine, with a litlle perserverance can be done in app. an hour. it looks worse than what it is. start on the front of the passenger side I felt these were the easiest that way you will get an idea of what you are after and then progress back to the harder ones. Be carefull to hand tighten the new plugs atleast a couple of turns to be shure they are not crossthreaded and do the same with the coil pack bolts they are easy to cross thread. also it will help to put a little strip caulking or something else sticky in the small socket for the coil packs so that you don't loose any of the coil pack bolts . Take youre time it's no big deal.

 

Apply some anti-sieze on the spark plug thread before you install and torque them only to about 13lb/ft. You could strip them by overtightening.

As chucks bp said, get yourself a 1/4" drive 7mm swivel socket at Sears, then you can remove all the coil bolts without removing the fuel rail.

 

After you take out the plug wire blow out the dirt around the plug before you remove it. Use an air compressor or shop vac.

 

does anyone have the firing order for a 302

 

Yo, Lost;

BEFORE you begin,

Read this excerpt from one of Mike Troyer's recent posts, and heed his advice - you will have a very hard time finding someone more knowledgeable than him.

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"The background on this was that for some years, until about the 2003 model year, Ford used a "half thread" design on the spark plug holds, so that robots could screw in the spark plugs easier & quicker - and as long as the plugs are installed properly, there is not a problem. Heck, I've got a Lighting whose engine is making 700+ horsepower internally, and I still run the standard half-thread (4 threads) design - we have many 500 HP Ford modular engines still using that half-thread design and not having any problems whatsoever - because the spark plugs were installed properly.

Sometimes the spark plugs were installed too tightly at the factory, and sometimes when people replace them they apply too much force to tighten them - and sooner or later, that will cause a problem. For good info on how to *properly* tighten a spark plug in a aluminum cylinder head, drop by www.densoiridium.com

We use the Denso Iridium spark plugs on the 2-valve modular motors, as they generally o the best job, last the longest, and can cut the ion path for the spark to follow to actually light the mixture with less required firing voltage, all while being much longer lasting that a conventional copper-based spark plug."

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I REPEAT - DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN those PLUGS !!! Work on a COLD engine only.

BTW - the Denso site is terrific - you'll note the additional advice to LOWER your torque settings if you lube ( a.k.a. anti-sieze) the threads.

Take your time, have fun. You CAN do it.

Cheers

 

I don't recommend anti-seize on the threads; the torque value is for dry threads.

 

This has been debated so often ( with no apparent real factual resolution) that it's way beyond the pale.

For example:

- Ford uses no anti-sieze during factory asembly
- Anti-sieze is required due to different metals ( plug is
steel, head is aluminum)
- Denso recommends reducing torque values by half if using
anti-sieze
- and on and on.... *sigh* ;-))

Personally, I use a very small amount of anti-sieze and follow the plug manufacturer's advice; 7 lb-ft or 1/16 turn. No probs so far. Done it 3 times already.

I'm not advocating that anyone else needs to follow this procedure... it's *my* choice based upon *my* interpretation of the facts. Plus knowing that over-tightening is a LOT worse than anything else you can do to eff this up. and, of course working on a COLD engine only, and taking plenty of time, and assembling all the proper tools / docs for the job. Good plugs help too ( why I chose Denso Iridiums ).


From Denso's site ( FAQ section ):
========================

Installation Key Points

The threaded area of the cylinder head must be clean.
Using your fingers, screw the spark plug into the cylinder head, and tighten about 1/4-1/2 turn with a plug wrench. (Taper seat plug: about 1/16 turn)
Tightening too much may cause distortion of the plug housing, and in extreme cases could cause engine damage. Therefore, proper installation of the spark plug is important for life and performance of the spark plug.

Plug Size Aluminum Heads lb-ft

14mm Taper Seat 7-15 lb-ft

Note: The installation torque values shown above apply to new spark plugs without lubricating the threads. If threads are lubricated, the torque value should be reduced by approximately 1/2 to avoid over-tightening.
* 1N*m = 0.1020 kgf*m


Installation Procedure

Whenever possible it is recommended that the spark plug should be installed by using a torque wrench. If a torque wrench is not available, tighten in the following manner: 1/16 turn after hand seating.