well yeah... but once again we are talking about seriously high end cars.... multi hundred thousand dollar motors... and yeah, i admit that EFI is better for most everything, but carburation does have its advantages... i guess we all have our preferences... but while you guys are all sittin around tryin to figure out which of the 100 sensors is causing your otherwise beautifully running car/truck to run like crap.... ill be sittin fat with my 700 CFM on a high rise performer intake

 

This is getting off the original topic.

Whether you warm up your engine for x minutes or drive off right away has nothing to do with the temperature of the intake charge and fuel atomization.

The real issue is oil viscosity and the ability of the oil to lubricate engine components when cold. I don't know what the correct answer is.

I personally let the engine run for 10-15 seconds and then drive off slowly. My heat will come on faster if I'm driving instead of idling in the driveway.

 

A tip to get heat faster is to turn to A/C and full heat.
This makes the A/C act as a heat pump until the engines temps comes up enough to switch over to the heating positions.

 

A tip to get heat faster is to turn to A/C and full heat.
This makes the A/C act as a heat pump until the engines temps comes up enough to switch over to the heating positions.

 

A tip to get heat faster is to turn to A/C and full heat.
This makes the A/C act as a heat pump until the engines temps comes up enough to switch over to the heating positions.

 

For what it is worth, I checked my notes from auto class in college and professor said it takes 15 miles of travel depending upon the air temp in order for all the oil in the pan to be at normal operating temp. He also suggested that it is alright to let it warm up 1-3 minutes to loosen everything up but then too drive slow for the next few minutes and gradually build speed up to highway travel. This info was as of the early '90s. I trust his knowledge.

I usually follow this procedure for the most part and has worked well for me. I also plug my truck in every night during the winter months to ensure an easier start and less drag on the starter and battery.

 

Idle for 1-3 minutes come on guys start it put it in 1st and go.... go...go.. bunch of nancies with all this idle for so long crap!!! Been startin and going for 120,000+ miles and have never touched the 4.6.

 

never say never.... you would be suprised at how many times i have had cars, and thought to myself out of the blue one day "Gee, been a while since anything went wrong with the ride..." it was about 2 days after my last thought light that.... that i blew the head gasket in my camaro.... and every other car ive had... as soon as i start to pat myself on the back for doing a good job and not having any issues for a while, something comes up and bited me in the *** so hard i almost KNOW its someone out there getting kicks off it....

 

Regardless of weather, I crank my truck, wait till idle drops from 1000-1500rpm to normal idle range 700rpm or so and then put it in gear and go. So thats maybe 30 seconds at most? If your engine oil isn't hitting every part within 30 seconds, then you have some problems.

 

Interesting posts, three days ago on a 7 degree day I started my 1989 truck (f 150 5.0) and it took six minutes for the guage to climb off the C. I run a multigrade 40w oil.
I had ample heat coming out of the defrost vents at that time.

In my earlier days I would go out and depress the foot feet on my old 75 F 150 with a 351 clevland and hope the fast idle cam engaged so I could run back into the warm house and let the truck warm up. It sounded like a B-17 trying to take off, large headers and continental mufflers and no tail pipes. My nieghbors hated it.

Now it's start er' up wait a couple minutes and go. I have heard of people going from a multigrade 40w oil in the summer to a multigrade 30w oil in the winter. Anybody else doing that?

 

i use 5w30 in the winter, and a 10w40 for the summer... just because it BLAZES here in the summer...