Yes i am new to this forum and am happy to be here. i do own a ford a 1990 F-150 4x4 long bed. equipped with snow plow. I am currently looking at a 351 windsor rebuild and was wondering if there is any books ar sites i can go to to get general info on this build up. torque specs and what not. any help is appreciated. thank you. Scott

 

Welcome Scott,

As far as a rebuild what do you want...stock or higher performance? You are going to be somewhat limited on what you can do for more performmance unless you are willing to upgrade to "mass-air" fuel injection. Your truck is currently "speed density" and it doesn't do too well with mods. The best bet for you r truck is as follows...in my opinion.
Stock:
351w cleaned up, .030 overbore...now 357 cubic inches
Stock heads, cleaned up, freash vavle job
stock cam
1 5/8 shorty headers
custom 3 inch y-pipe into a 3 inch high flow cat...into 3inch cat back system
Underdrive pulleys
High flow air filter
Timing set at about 12* to 14*
This build up will run considerably better than stock and produce some very good bottom end. Drivability will be stock or a little better.

High Performance:
351w bored to 357
9.5 to 1 compression (maybe even 10 to 1)
mild cam, call and get a recommendation for your specific vehicle
GT40P heads, these are cast iron and flow quite a bit more air than stock. Or you could go with some Edelbrock "Performer" heads...very high quality
custom gt40p truck shorty headers
3" exhaust
Edelbrock performer 5.8L truck intake
Edelbrock throttle body
High flow air filter/intake kit
Underdrive pulleys

This engine will make gobs of low end power and pull very well up high. It will require a switch to mass air.

 

I like the sound of the higher horsepower build up because i do snow plowing with the truck and the more low end would be good to have. the one problem is i that i have tohave the truck emissions legal for pa and was thinking the higher horsepower might make that difficult but i was told that as logn as all the original emission devices are on the new motor it shouldnt be a problem. what sbout the mass air is that difficult to convert over to from the stock fuel injection? thanks for the help i think i would like to do the more horsepower build up "stump pullin power". thanks scott.

 

Scott,

As long as you go with a high quality high flow cat convertor and the rest of your emissions equipment is in good working order you shouldn't have to much problem with emissions. I would call a cam company and tell them what you want and what you are going to use and let them recommend a cam.

The GT40P heads will make a significant improvement in low end especially on a 351W.

Good Luck!

 

well today saturday i bought the 351 to start the build-up on. It is a windsor but i was told that it is the High Output 351 windsor. is there any truth to this "High Output 351 windsor"? is there anyway i can find out? there was a reference on the valve conver sticker to "heavy-duty" maybe thats it. i dont now but any help is greatly appreciated. also is there any books or manuals on rebuilding this engine so that i can get torque specs and bore measurments so i know weather or not i have to get it aligned honed or bored over? thanks.

 

Here are a few facts as presented in "FORD PERFORMANCE" (isbn1-884089-27-5)

All 351w's have 2 bolt mains.

The weakest link in a 351w is the rod bolts.

There was only one 4-barrel 351w produced (1969-70) with flat top pistons.

Flat top piston with 59cc head/combustion chamber will produce 10.7:1 compression.
64cc head will produce 10:1

If you are working on a 77 or later 351w, one of the quickest ways to "bring it to life" is to buy/install earlier windsor heads (preferrably the 69)

If you are going to change the cam, then you should upgrade the valve train and match the ports.

"other than this, your basic 351w hop-up consists of the ususal carb (650-700cfm) and manifold , a set of headers, and a modern performance ignition system.

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Here are my thoughts:

Have the block decked and line bored.

cylinders bored with torque plate.

Crankshaft turned (.010-.010 preferred) cross drilled, chamferred and micro polished. (balancing rotating assembly (balancer to flex plate)=good)

high volume (not pressure) oil pump.

replace rods or shot peen and resized and add ARP rod bolts.

A good set of forged pistons ( i would shoot for a 9:1 compression ratio due to low octane fuel).

Port match your intake and exhaust ports.

Polish the combustion chamber and exhaust runner only.

Screw in studs for your rocker arms (desired but not required)

Have the heads milled and valves ground and lapped, valve guides knurled if necessary and bell/umbrella type valve stem guides after any polishing/porting to be done.

RV cam, .477/.493 lift, 254/262 duration looks good (you want low end torque for the plow, not RPM/HP UNLESS you have a standard to let you rev the motor)

Buy a good lifter (I like RHOADS)

Roller rocker arms (very desireable but not necessary)

MSD (multiple spark discharge) box for your current ignition.

Aluminum intake - DUAL PLANE

600-650 cfm carb (I like the AFB style)

IN MY OPINION the motor above should not only produce your desired results, but will also be reliable and durable.

The opinions listed above are my own and are based on my experiences over the past 20 years of wrenching for GM and Catepillar.

I hope that you find this useful.