I need a f150online 12 step program. I start reading threads and then the drools starts. I black out (and I don't even drink) and when its over... Er, Honey, we are now the proud owners of...



I think it would be a shame to install these in the engine and get em all dirty.

 

I'm in trouble now. Been thinking of a set of those plugs myself. Let us know how you like them and how deep we gotta dig to get a set.

 

I think Troyer performance has 8 of them for $80 but I don't know how much the shipping costs are.

I got mine at Autozone for $13 per plug or about $104 before tax is applied.

I plan on using permatex anti-seize and about 7 foot pounds of torque.

If anybody has any arguments about the 7 foot pounds of torque then please feel free to sound off.

I hope I can get to the rear spark plugs with the tools I have. I may not be able to get a torque wrench back there and might have to "Fonz" the torque by feel.

I changed out plugs 1, 2 and 3 on the passenger side. I got the COP off of plug 4 but can not get the socket into the hole. I think a few short wobble extenstions from Sears might get the job done. I took a look at the drivers side and it looks pretty ugly on that side of the engine. In fact, its probably like playing dungeons and dragons. All ya have to do is figure your way through the mazes of engine parts to rescue the little spark plug princesses.

Oh goody! I found a thread with pictures of the tools some folks used to change spark plugs.

http://66.179.14.118/forums/showthre...park+plug+tool

 

I had to go to Sears to get some more tools for the job. I finally got all the spark plugs replaced. The spark plugs only made 3 or 4 turns before they were snug and thought of only 3 or 4 threads holding the spark plug in makes me uneasy. You can see the rust lines on the spark plugs in the picture below and see it only goes for 3 or 4 threads.

I did not get the bolts for the rear COP's to go all the way back in so the rear COP's are loose right now but the engine runs ok. I backed the bolts back out and looked at them but they do not appear to be cross-threaded. I used a stubby 3/8 inch rachet to put the bolts in but they get hard to turn after a while and I don't wan't to break them. I don't know what Im going to do with those 2 rear COP bolts at this time.

I should be making a 300 mile trip this coming Friday so I can see if the new spark plugs make any MPG difference.

The original AWSF-22E spark plugs appear to be in great condition to me. They have 46,000 miles on them.

 

In my time I would push the spark plug wire boot onto the spark plug until I felt a snap.

I noticed the boot is removable on the COP. Do I push the whole COP assembly into the spark plug when I put it back or do I put the boot on the spark plug before the rest of the COP.

How do I know that the boot on the COP has seated on the spark plug correctly as I don't seem to feel a "Snap".

I also noticed a small metallic cylinder inside the COP spring wire. It this supposed to hammer the COP spring onto the spark plug.

 

Well, I decided to go with some shorter bolts on the rear COPs.

 

I ended up going with the 16mm length bolts. I did not use washers. I did not wan't to chance the having the washer fall off the bolt the next time it was removed and possibly dropping down into the spark plug hole and then into the cylinder when the spark plug is removed. I suppose I could have used some JB weld and glued the washer to the bolt...

 

temp 1

I guess this point is now mute since I have read all your posts.

I have two similar packages setting on my kitchen counter for my wife's truck. I was thinking along the same lines as you, but finally decided that the Denso plugs would provide even more performance if I actually installed them rather than just admiring them in their boxes.

I installed eight Densos in my '98 two years ago and at the same time upgraded wires and coil packs (a chore you don't have with your 'cop'). I noted a rather 'smoothing out' of the engine and perhaps a little faster throttle response.

I would say this: if one is going through the hassle of replacing plugs, they should put in the best plug available, as that is surely a job I don't want to do very often on these modular engines.

ENB

 

Peddler,

The manual says to gap at .054 and the Denso's came gapped from the factory at .044. I left them gapped at .044 for now.

Did you re-gap the Denso plugs?