i went to www.truckperformance.com and compared the hp/torque on intakes i think i will go with the air force one unit.

airforce one has 18hp/29 torque metal tube

k&n has 14-16hp/22 torque rubber tube

volant w/box has 10-15hp/15 torque rubber tube

hmmmmm? but seems like truck performance a little spendy.
i think www.stylinconcepts.com is cheaper. shop around let me know what you think.

check out my truck on view galleries of f150 online users (divewithtom) let me know what you think.

 

Those HP and Torque ratings are way off. They are general numbers. Read the fine print.

The volant and K&N have plastic/resin tubes not rubber.

 

you must be an expert on this, because i'm only going by what i see guy! did you go to the web sight? hello i see hp next to the numbers, who to believe you or the web site catalog? my only mistake was the rubber tubes sorry!!!!

 

I think he's just saying the HP claims are not realistic at all. I've had this same issue bouncing around to justify spending that kind of money for a 2 to 4 horse gain.....

 

Try looking at the tests that FTW did, they are no where near those marketing numbers at peak HP and Peak TQ.

The time that you might see those is on a system that is really jacked up, and the FIPK helped out tremendously, once again not nessesarly at peak HP or peak TQ, but maybe somewhere else in the curve ( as the FTW tests showed at peak ).

The other thing to keep in mind is dyno testing of a FIPK or xhst system is only a tuning tool, I have found that spending the money on dyno pulls is not worth it for mods, what counts is 60', 1/8mi and 1/4 times. Get a G-Tech Pro and see for yourself.

I actually have an intake is is a K&N throttle body tube, with a filter similar to the AF1. Allows more air into the system ( measured at the PCM in MAFS flow rate, expressed in terms of lbs/min ) then the K&N filter did on the system ( the one with the chrome cap on it ).

This intake style ( the AF1 type ) also outflowed the JLP Air-Ram air box in the down load ( under 55 to 60 mph ) area.

You have the correct product pic going with the AF1, but I cannot say for sure that the similar looking one off eBay wouldn't do the same thing. I stopped when I found out that Mike Troyer was right ( big shock there huh ? ).

dollars per HP spent, the only ones really worth a damn if you are looking at this alone ( not reduced 1/4 ETs ) are the Chip, electric fans, and the pulley set. But for a few 100 more, you can eak out some more performance.

 

 

hey thanks for the info i am new at this and its frustrating learning the right equipment to get, right now i have a single 3" exhaust with a v-force muffler by flowmaster sounds great dont feel the gain. just ordered the hypertech programmer, should arive this week , then i want to get the best intake, and thats all i want for now. so whats the best intake to get?

 

Yet at the same time, Troyer is claiming an 18 horse gain with the AF1 on the 5.4L....... A little contradicting if you ask me.......

 

The page actually states :
That is the line from AF1 directly ( same line as above ) .
Read his posts in the forums here and he will explain this in detail.

Depends on what you start with for a base line, depends on how many times you have run the truck on the dyno ( gets lower every time ), what the ambient temp, altitude is, are the numbers what was posted or corrected number, etc.

He will say that a dyno is a tuning platform, 60', 1/8 mi & 1/4mi ETs are the true test of what is going on ( that is where I got the idea from to use a G-Tech not a Dyno to measure what is going on ).
I wasted a bunch of money trying to build the ultimate FIPK, and from the AutoTap logs, and G-Tech times; came around to what Mike was posting all the while....imagine that.
I wound up in the same place he said to start, with higher lbs/min flow rates at the MAFS, and lowered 60' and 1/8 mi ETs registered on the G-Tech. Didn't need the Dyno for that...
I have no idea how much the final FIPK design added to the RW, nor do I know if it even added anything at peak. I do know it is faster by the G-Tech times, that shows me it is right.

BTW : Quote the whole line from his page.
http://www.troyerperformance.com/cgi...atalogno=16408

 

I was going by the fact that I recently e-mailed Troyer and ask if I can actually expect that kind of gain from the AF1. Their reply said 18 horse on my 5.4L.

I replied with more questions, and they didn't answer them.

They also claim some pretty awesome gains with the Magnaflow SI/SO kit. I guess I have doubts on those claims as well......

 

OK, I'll take that.
Was the question:
"what is the HP gain from the AF1 ?"
or
"what is the peak HP gain from the AF1 ?"

It is possiable to gain 18 HP in the down low HP area, and this will lower a 60' time, but in the long run, does the added HP sustain the entire HP band, I'd say no from my limited knowledge. If you installed it, a Dyno pull might only show 2 HP added at max HP, but does this mean that it did not add a full 18 somewhere else in the band ? No it does not.

I noticed a lowered 60' and 1/8 mi ET from changing from a K&N to a JLP Air Ram air box, and then again from the JLP to the final one, which looks alot like a AF1. I am testing using something that shows the end results in terms of how I am using it..faster.
And with objective testing instruments ( AutoTap and a G-Tech, no dyno pulls for me any more useless I need a wide band O2 sensor reading ). You would not think that going from one to the other would make that big of a dfference, and without the same xhst system, the readings might not be the same on another truck for the 3 FIPKs.
So baseline is another big item to what the increae in HP or in my case lowered ETs actually is after a mod. Stock and adding a FIPK might show 0 HP, but the truck could have a lowered ET.
Does this mean the money was ill spent ? Depends on what you are looking for; mine is bigger then yours in terms of HP numbers, then yes, if in terms of a faster truck, then no.

Modding for the sake of having a cool truck is one thing, but that is more show then go, and the HP amount should not matter, it is all how you want it to look and sound in the end, which Performance numbers don't mean a single thing in this regard.

Rather then play ping-pong on email with Mike, call and tell him what the finish line is for your mods ( desired end results and intended usage ) , and the budget that you are working with, and he will tell you if it can be done or not, and what to do to get to the finish line, and the steps that you can do to get there if the budget does not allow for it all day one.

The mfgr's have the generic claims, which are documented ( to aliveate false advertising claims ) but they might not be the same usage and aplication as yours. FTW did the test on 3 FIPKs, and showed the 2 HP gain. What was the type of dyno, how good was the dyno operator, did they wait one day between each test to remove heat soak issue, I don't know \, but this can have a direct outcome on what it shows the net results to be. The first FIPK would show the best HP on the inital run, and the 3rd FIPK would show the worse. The test on the 3 I think were all done in one day, showing a flawed test procedure. If using 3 concentive days, how far apart were the temps and humidity for each. Are the numbers that FTW posted corrected numbers or actual numbers ? Lots of questions on how the numbers were obtained, and this is what I have learned over time, thus stoped the dyno pull in favor of the AutoTap and G-Tech test methods.

Adding a AF1 and Magnaflow mufler by itself might not show anything on the butt dyno aside from easier take offs, but added with other mods help the cause. Along the lines of the sum of the parts is less then the whole. The other thing that might be a result of this, is a lowered ET, a dyno won't show this. With a lowered ET and easier take off, with a dyno pull showing 0 Hp gain.

So if you drop a dime, and frame out why you're doing the mod, you will get a more objective answer, rather then subjective ( 18 HP vs cutting 1.2 off your ET ).

My inital post was to frame out the reason that the large numbers are given, vs what you will get out of the mods.