Any advice for Header install?
Any advice for Header install?
While surfing the net checking on transmissions, I scored a nice set of JBA stainless, coated headers. I am gong to install them and was wondering is there anything I need to know. A friend of mine says Ford recommends new studs and nuts ??? Any idea why. I don't think they are like the head bolts that stretch. Also do I need to have a Superchip reburn?
These things look sweet, I hope they run as good as they look...
These things look sweet, I hope they run as good as they look...
The JBA's should come with a new set of bolts as oppossed to the stock studs. The only thing I can tell you is to pull your inner fender liners and the EGR pipe (it will likely need to be bent slightly). I pulled the starter, that seemed to make it a little easier also.
Thanks GearHead_1.
I bought the JBA's used off a show motor. Do you think they will go on using the stock studs or will clearance problems make the replacement bolts necessary? Also, did you have any problem getting the stock studs out??
I bought the JBA's used off a show motor. Do you think they will go on using the stock studs or will clearance problems make the replacement bolts necessary? Also, did you have any problem getting the stock studs out??
I used the OEM studs and nuts. Why does Ford recommend new studs? The shop manual doesn't intruct users to replace studs when removeing the exhaust manifolds. Some of the studs had to be ground down a little to clear the primary tubes. I removed the nuts and some of the studs, actually most of them, came out too. I cleaned up the threads and removed the nuts then reinstalled the studs. When I was pushing the headers over the studs is when I realized some of them were hitting the primairy tubes.
What year truck and engine do you have?
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
What year truck and engine do you have?
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
My studs came right out, in fact most of them came out with the nuts. I've heard of a few others that weren't so lucky however. As was mentioned unless you grind the stock studs down you might have problems with the limited clearance. I don't what the service manual says about stud replacement but I figured since JBA sent new bolts I would use them. The headers weren't really hard to put in, they took all of about 2 1/2 hours.
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Thanks guys.
JMC, I have the 4.6L with auto. Did anyone else need a superchip reburn? I may wait and see since I think I am running a little rich now (more then enough carbon in the tail pipe).
JMC, I have the 4.6L with auto. Did anyone else need a superchip reburn? I may wait and see since I think I am running a little rich now (more then enough carbon in the tail pipe).
Intel486,
Headers alone are not enough to require a reburn.
WLF,
I asked for your engine size because some of the 4.6 trucks, mine included have the two lower middle passenger side manifold nuts obstructed by the motor mount. I had remove the mount and grind it to clear. Have a look at yours to see if they clear.
JMC
Headers alone are not enough to require a reburn.
WLF,
I asked for your engine size because some of the 4.6 trucks, mine included have the two lower middle passenger side manifold nuts obstructed by the motor mount. I had remove the mount and grind it to clear. Have a look at yours to see if they clear.
JMC
Originally posted by JMC
Intel486,
Headers alone are not enough to require a reburn.
Intel486,
Headers alone are not enough to require a reburn.
Originally posted by Superchips_Distributor
Headers require custom tuning to get the Air/Fuel ratios dialed in for best power gains. Some people will do headers and use the "standard" Superchip performance program, and you can get by like that in many cases without having issues of detonation from a lean condition, etc., but you don't get the full power gain you could from the headers. To get maximum power gain from the headers custom tuning is always best.
Headers require custom tuning to get the Air/Fuel ratios dialed in for best power gains. Some people will do headers and use the "standard" Superchip performance program, and you can get by like that in many cases without having issues of detonation from a lean condition, etc., but you don't get the full power gain you could from the headers. To get maximum power gain from the headers custom tuning is always best.
Intel486,
I appologise for the misinformation. Last time I spoke to Mike about this I did not need the custom tune. That was over a year ago. I must have misunderstood in that my perticuler chip did not need a reburn.
JMC
I appologise for the misinformation. Last time I spoke to Mike about this I did not need the custom tune. That was over a year ago. I must have misunderstood in that my perticuler chip did not need a reburn.
JMC
Originally posted by JMC
Intel486,
I appologise for the misinformation. Last time I spoke to Mike about this I did not need the custom tune. That was over a year ago. I must have misunderstood in that my perticuler chip did not need a reburn.
JMC
Intel486,
I appologise for the misinformation. Last time I spoke to Mike about this I did not need the custom tune. That was over a year ago. I must have misunderstood in that my perticuler chip did not need a reburn.
JMC
hedder bbolts
Hey WLf; I put JBAs on my truck about 6mos ago.My advice to you is do not put any penatrate oil on the exhaust nuts. They will take the stud out when you try to remove them.the studs will come out with the nuts. The JBAs will fit like a glove. They are great for fit. The supplied bolts work just fine.I used a star washer with mine.the torque is so low I wanted the washer to lock up at the low torque. Everthing lined up to 16th of an inch or less. I did not remove the starter. You can figure about 10 hours labor to do this. Like I said let the rusted on nuts take out the studs for you.Its a step you wont have to do...One thing I forgot is to remove the EGR line first ok..good luck oldgray



