I'm not too impressed Your last test was close to you first one
You'll should get one more out of
So 9+ qrts +3qrts topup and you've used a better filter 40000
and run you engine on border line oil .saved 6Qrts

did the 6 qrt test come back saying to change you oil?

POST the serviceable oil limits so we came check it out.

lots of oil , oil coolers , bypasses are mostly for racing and long hauling where the oil can get really hot and break down.

 

I didn't see it, they must have updated the site.

 

How can you say border line oil? Pour point of -60 degrees?
ht/hs viscosity of 3.5

Bourderline pumping temperature os -40 degrees.

I'm quite impressed with my results, and if I would drive the truck more often they would probably be even better, but just like today, the truck takes a back seat to my motorcycle which I put over 10,000 per year on.

Serviceable limits? I'm not even close unless there is spike in the trend. That is why you need to do this on your own vehicle over a period of time. 1 analysis doen'st mean squat, what matters is the trend, when you see a spike in that trend then you know something is going on.


http://theoildrop.server101.com/whatisoilanalysis.htm

 

Here's my report at 21,500 miles. Labnerd, I'm looking forward to your opinion.

• Iron: 63
• Chromium: 6
• Lead: 3
• Tin: 8
• Al: 11
• Nickel: 6
• Silicon: 30
• Boron: 19
• Sodium: 18
• Magnesium: 750
• Calcium: 2548
• Ph: 1028
• Zn: 1302
• Vis@100: 12.23
• Water: 0
• Soot/solids: none
• Glycol: Neg
• Nitration: 23.0
• Oxidation: 26
• TBN: 7.00

This is a 2001 F-150 with a 5.4 Liter V-8. Amsoil Dual Remote by-pass with an SDF 15 and a BE90. I have 7+ quarts capacity. There is 55,000 miles on the engine with 21,500 miles on the oil. I've done 2 ff filter changes and 1 by-pass filter.

Oil used is Amsoil Series 2000 0w30

 

greencrew, this is a good report on how well the by-pass filtration is doing but reflects almost nothing about the health of the engine. The only indicators you can go by with an engine using a by-pass system is the nitration and TBN. Considering your nitration, it's time for an oil change. I would suggest using their HDD 10w-30 unless you have severe cold starts like below zero. It will out perform your series 2000.

 

I did change the oil. I'm running Mobil 1 0w-20 now. I'll take it another 18 - 24 months. I think this has proven I can go that long with no problem. Yes, I do have a lot of cold starts. Not a lot below zero, but single digit on a regular basis. I'll have to read up on nitration, if it's that important to my setup then I'd like to know more about it. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

 

Would there be any sense in running a bypass filter setup, with dino oil (ie, keeping the short oil change intervals).

For instance:
every 3k-5k miles: change "regular" filter and oil
every ?? miles: change bypass filter

mainly my question is would this system be as effective/economic in filtering more stuff out of the oil? Or is a bypass system really only beneficial with synthetic oils and long drain intervals?

Also, how long could one expect the bypass filter to last in a setup such as this? Are bypass filters any different from a normal filter, for instance can you use a 2nd FL-820S?

 

You can run a by-pass with dino as well. Even with dino you'll still just change the filters and top of with fresh oil. I ran my first by-pass on a turbo charged Subaru using Castrol GTX and Valvoline each at 50k intervals. I changed the filter every 2k because it was an oil cooled turbo. I have yet to hear of anyone who took that turbo 140k without a rebuild like I did.

One big benefit is you can run any oil reguardless of cost. That is because you are only changing a few quarts rather than the whole sump. You might as well get a good synthetic which will bring your engine wear close to nill.

I don't know if anyone know the answer, but for sake of discussion, to answer you question as best I can. Dino with a by-pass will take your engine a million miles, and with synthetic no one has ever driven far enough to find out how far it will go. It's over kill either way. The big advantage is simple maintenance. I like the fact that all I have to do is change a filter or two every six months and freshen up the oil with a new quart or two.

 

There are different by-pass filters with their own advantage. They last from 3K to 12k before they need changing. I'm running a 12k unit on my F-150, and ran a 3k unit in the 85 Subaru I spoke of.

The Full Flow (normal) filter is not doing much in a by-pass setup, so two is a mute point. Oil flows slowly through a by-pass filters. It gets say 10% of the oil flow. The rest goes through the full flow filter. It's not possible to run a by-pass filter by itself, you need the flow capacity of a full flow filter.

The by-pass filters out dirt particles large enough to cause wear to engine parts. Particles too small to be filtered by a by-pass are also too small to do any damage, and they just float along in the oil.

The full flow and by-pass filters work much the same way, it's just that the media in a by-pass is thick and tighly compacted. Thanks for asking.

 

Ok, on my truck, it has the remote mounted filter already. Is there a kit that I can buy that just adds a bypass filter to that?
Thanks.

 

Sounds to me like you are half way there already. I'll wait and see what MS says.

 

Correction on that. The HDD product is a 5w30 and is called the Series 3000 HDD(heavy Duty Diesel Oil) It is also SL rated for fleet use.

Matter of fact this is what Al Amatuzio runs in his suburban.

I'm thinking after this run of 10w30 I'll probably switch to that. Will see though

 

Well yes sir. that is exactly what I did. I mounted the BMK13 (amsoil dual remote) to the remote adapter behind the front wheel, then I mounted the Filter in the grill. But there are other locations as well. You might have to fabricate your own bracket though.

I've had mine hooked up for almost 4 years and I have no leaks at the fittings or the remote mount.

 

I put Amsoil in a 1991 Jeep at 50,000 miles. I was not running a bypass system only the Amsoil Full-Flow filter and Amsoil air filter. I sold the Jeep to a co-worker with 153,000 miles on it and the engine compression was on the high end of what the Haynes manual showed to be acceptable (his mechanic friend told him to check the compression after hearing how long my oil change intervals were). I changed oil every 25,000 miles/1 year whichever came first and the filter was changed every 12,000 miles/6 months whichever came first. I averaged 10,000 miles per filter change and never used a drop of oil in that filter change interval. No leaks when I sold it. Oil analysis showed good for continued service the few times I did it.

Needless to say it's in my 97' Expy, my '56 Jeep with stock F-head engine and everything else I own that requires oil. Yes I am a dealer since 1993 when I first tried Amsoil 2-cycle in my snowmobile and noticed immediate results. I became a dealer to buy it cheap for myself and friends. I do not make a profit selling the oil.
I was as skeptical as anyone before putting it in my engines and trannies and everything else. Its proven itself to me over the years and it sure is nice not to change my oil when its -20 degrees here in MN. I still get under the truck regularly to check for leaks and grease it etc. so you don't have to stop doing that.

I say run what you are comfortable running for oil. If my oil change regimine or the bypass regimine would make you nervous then keep doing what you're doing if it's working fine. I know I saved a lot of money and time over the years with that 91 Jeep and Amsoil. Yes 3,000 mile oil changes with a dino oil will give you many miles on your engine. The Amsoil interval will also with less inconvenience.

 

Would the BMK11 work to add a bypass and not change anything on the stock filter system?

I looked at the instructions for it and that looks like what I want to do...

Also, where is a good (and cheap) place to buy it? Directly from amsoil is $161, and then $26 for the BE90 filter...