Okay...here goes...

I have never changed my own oil.

But I am sick of Jiffy's prices getting higher and higher....what happened to $19.99 oil changes.

Anyway...I am pretty handy, have made some minor engine mods, and I believe I will not kill myself or the truck(2002 F150 FX4).

Would someone mind a quick rundown of the steps...without ridiculing me too badly in the process...I feel foolish enough already.

Also...seems like Motorcraft Filter and Mobil 1 5/30 are good choices?

Thanks in advance,
JJ

 

Well, you'll need:

1. Oil & filter (I won't even go into the many choices here; however, I use Motorcraft 5W20 semi-synthetic, and Motorcraft filter)(6 qts I think???)
2. You'll probably need some type of filter wrench (I find the ones that use tension to wrap around the outside work best here)
3. Wrench (socket, open end, box, line, offset, crow's foot; fixed or ratcheting, whatever works best for you) 5/8" I think???
4. Oil Pan

Then just pull the bolt/plug on the bottom of your oil pan (not tranny pan), let it drain. Clean and reinstall bolt/plug, then slide pan over, and remove filter. Clean block with lint free rag (old t-shirts work great), put fresh oil on seal of new filter (I usually fill the filter before installing, but there isn't any good way to put it on full), and HAND tighten the new filter. Then add 5 qts, and check level remember the filter is probably still empty... then just add to full, start it let it run, then recheck level... Might wanna keep some rags handy, the filter sits above a cross member, and a funnel is used to route the oil forward, and will drip for awhile...

Don't feel foolish, everyone had to learn sometime. Be proud your taking things into your own hands...

If I've missed anything I'm sure there's plenty of guys who'll help us out here...

 

Thanks closer. I thought it was that straightforward...just wanted to make sure. One other thing...do I need to open the fill hole after I pull the plug for the oil to flow....kinda like shotgunning a beer! lol

 

You're welcome...

and no, no need to open the filler. Just that much more chance of dirt getting in...

 

Hey, JJ. Congrats in taking enough pride in your truck to want to take over its maintenance. Closer's procedure is right on. I just have a couple of notes.

First, 6 qts of oil (including filter change) is dead-on. This works out well since I usually just buy a case (and get a small discount). Also, if you have a membership at a wholesale club (Sam's Club, etc.) they usually carry Mobil 1.

Second, I use a 16mm socket on the oil pan bolt. 5/8" isn't wrong since they convert almost exactly, but this is a metric bolt. It's not necessary to open the oil fill cap before draining, but I'd recommend it for a quick, thorough drain.

This is a matter of preference, but I like to use the fitted filter wrench for my application. You can only do this, though, if you always use the same filter brand. Different brands have different patterns on the end of the filter. So a filter wrench that fits your Motorcraft filter may not fit the PureOne filter you had to buy in a pinch. Anyway, just a thought.

Also, *turn the steering wheel hard left* before removing the filter. This will save you a whole bunch of trouble trying to finagle the filter around the tie rod (and the big mess that results). This is the most common newby problem.

Good luck on your first oil change. They only get easier.

 

Never a bad time to learn. It will go slow the 1st time, but goes quick after that!

Oil and Filter: Mobil 1 is good, 5w30 or 0w20. Other good dino oils if you don't want to spend the money on synthetic oils are Chevron Supreme, Pennzoil, or Castrol GTX, even Motorcraft all in 5w30 or 5w20 flavors. Can't go wrong with any of those brands or wieghts (5w20 or 5w30).

Good filters are the Motorcraft FL-820s, the Wix line of Filters (commonly found as Napa Gold or Carquest Premium filters if you can't find Wix), or the Purolator Pure One (which is essentially the motorcraft filter).

I leave the oil fill open while I drain the oil underneath. Allows the drain to happen faster.

6qts of oil has always done the trick for me, you may find you need an extra 1/2 qt or so to bring it to the full mark.

16mm wrench has done the trick. Everything else is metric on the truck, so I figure the pan bolt is too!

The wheel turn to the left is important on the 4x4 - makes life much easier!

Also, just hand tighten the filter when you reinstall it. Generally, this is about 1/2 to 1 turn past the point the gasket contacts the base. Place a little oil on the gasket before you install it - it will help to release the filter gasket next time you change it. Always make sure the old gasket came off with the filter or it will never seal right.

Don't be surprised if it seems like an 800lb gorrilla put on the pan drain bolt and the filter - a royal PITA, but it seems like its the same everywhere. After you do it, life is much easier!

 

One more quick tip: the biggest mistake I made the first time I did my own oil was not removing the drain plug slowly. What I do now is loosen up the drain plug and then slowly loosen it until oil starts to dribble out. This way you can make sure to get the drain pan underneath it without getting oil all over your driveway or garage floor. Other than than, total piece of cake. Good luck to you!

 

A couple of other tips:

- change your oil when it's warm to hot, never cold

- get the biggest oil drain pan you can find, mine is probably 2 feet across, and open the air release vent on the pan (if you get the type that is sloped down to a drain hole in the middle and not just a big hole in the top- the ones with the big hole in the top work OK, but you'll end up wtih your hand in the hot oil trying to find the oil plug

- put oil on the gasket of the filter to get a good seal, and a little on the threads to lube them up for easier installation/removal later (dab a little on your finger and run it around)

- I've been wearing rubber (latex) gloves lately, the oil isn't as hot to the touch, and it's a lot easier to clean your hands afterwords

- oh, and be prepared for a big mess the first time you do it. You'll get better and quicker w/ time

 

You can find the FL820S filter at Wal Mart much cheaper than at Ford.
Shop around.

 

If I want to cheap out on oil and NOT get synthetic...should I go 5w20 or 5w30. I live in Connecticut. I commute a long distance to work and would like all the help I can get with mileage.

 

If you want long mileage, I'd specifically recommend synthetic oil. The specific advantage synthetics have over dinos is that they don't burn off as easily (higher flashpoint) and will protect longer due to expanding polymers. You could probably go 5-7k on synthetic where you could only get 3k out of a dino oil. (Though I use Mobil 1 oil & filter and I still change both at 4k - I'm not skimpy on routine maintenance).

A good compromise is a synthetic blend. If you're going to go this route, I've heard good things about Motorcraft 5W20 (but don't make the mistake of buying it at the dealer; go to Wal-Mart). Castrol and Quaker State also have good synthetic blends, from what I gather. I don't know as much about these.

Again, just my opinion.

-Jeff

 

If you want straight dino fluid, at least make sure it is a good national brand. No matter what you get, you'll probably be putting something in that's much better than Jiffy Lube uses (unless you get something that's under $1/qt).

-Jeff

 

If you are looking for fuel mileage, then 5w20 is the choice. To put it in perspective, Ford has specifically gone to 5w20 as part of an effort to help its corporate average fuel economy numbers. It works out to roughly a 1% increase over using 5w30. Not a lot, but its there.

However, 5w20 won't be the cheapest oil out there, because it must meet Ford's specs, which are tougher than the specs for 5w30 oils. This means better base stocks and add packs, which cost money. Most dino 5w20's seem to go for 1.70 and up a quart. Wal-mart locally carries 5w20 Penzoil for 1.79 a qt, Motorcraft 5w20 for 1.77 a qt , and Castrol GTX 5w20 for 1.79 a qt. All are good. I wouldn't have a problem using any major national brand, and you aren't likely to find a house brand anyways, since 5w20 is still a small percentage of the market.

Oh, Ford is the only one to market its 5w20 as a syn blend. All the other oils are of the same formulation - a mix of Group III basestock (which in todays language is called a synthetic) with some group I or II (regular dino). They are all the same, so don't just buy based on some labeling scheme.

If you were getting service at Jiffy Lube, you were likely getting Pennzoil, since Pennzoil-Quaker State (now owned by Shell) owns Jiffy Lube.

 

If you are really **** retentive about starting an oil starved engine after an oil change, you can pre-lube the engine. It's pretty simple, really.

After doing the oil change, just jump in the cab and crank the engine over with your gas pedal mashed to the floor. The engine won't start because the fuel injection system shuts off with the pedal to the metal on a start.

Test this out prior to an oil change. I don't know if this is still the case with the newer trucks.

 

Im confused. . . what does this do?