F*UK ME andthis Rotor
F*UK ME andthis Rotor
I've been trying for a day and a half for get the rotor off my 97 F150 4x4. I've used penetrating, I've heated with Mapp gas, I've been beating it with a 2 lb. sledgehammer from under the truck. F*ck this truck. I have never had this problem with my wife's 92 full size Blazer. I know others have had this problem. What did you do to get that POS rotor off?
Soaked it with wd 40. Like half a can. Let it sit, and just took the seldge to it in a circle. Best of luck, i know its a bitch, just be patient.
Theres nothing blocking it right? I cant imagine a day and a half of hitting it wouldnt make it come off.
Theres nothing blocking it right? I cant imagine a day and a half of hitting it wouldnt make it come off.
I did mine at about 70k miles and all I did was "tap" it with a 3 lbs mini sledge hammer, wrapped in a rag to reduce kick-back and noise. I think it only took 6 or 8 good whacks to get it to pop loose.
Like suggested oil the heck out of it and make sure there is nothing in the way blocking it's removal
Stan
Like suggested oil the heck out of it and make sure there is nothing in the way blocking it's removal
Stan
On my F150 Lariat 4x4, I had 34,000 miles & started having a strang noise in the front brakes , but not like bad pads. My dealer checked the drives side the rotor with a dial gage. It was out about .040 from top to bottom . So they said the rotors needed turned. But since they were that bad to just replace them. So I when back a week later to have this done.
Went I got there they told me there was a problem!!!! With the old rotors.... well I said WHAT!!! Then they showed me both rotors were in pieces one in 3 the other in 4. Then they told me that wasn`t all. They had to hit them so hard that they messed up both 4x4 hubs & had to replace them too!!! At $ 400.00 a side, but it was all under te 36,000 miles warr. They orig. rotors on earlier 97`s were old stock from 96 F150`s an 1/8" smaller than what they should have been. And when they got hot they would weld themselves to the hubs. This is what they told me later after they had my truck fixed!!
Lariat#1
Went I got there they told me there was a problem!!!! With the old rotors.... well I said WHAT!!! Then they showed me both rotors were in pieces one in 3 the other in 4. Then they told me that wasn`t all. They had to hit them so hard that they messed up both 4x4 hubs & had to replace them too!!! At $ 400.00 a side, but it was all under te 36,000 miles warr. They orig. rotors on earlier 97`s were old stock from 96 F150`s an 1/8" smaller than what they should have been. And when they got hot they would weld themselves to the hubs. This is what they told me later after they had my truck fixed!!
Lariat#1
OK, I'm better now. I got it off. I called a machanic friend, told him my problem and he told me without hesitation, break the rotor off. He said they do it all the time, with no other damage. Ford tolerance is small and when rust sets in, the rotors become locked on the hub. He said they use a 5 lb. sledgehammer. I didn't have the room to through a 5 lb. sledge so I used a die grinder a cut a piece out, pie shaped and nocked it out. Thanks for your responces, I needed the input.
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Don't forget to wash your truck ASAP. All the steel dust from your grinding job probably landed all over your truck. Definitely not good stuff to let sit for any length of time. It will eat through the wax and eventually through the clear coat.
So a search on "rail dust" and you'll see what I'm talking about.
So a search on "rail dust" and you'll see what I'm talking about.
Originally posted by Dennis
Don't forget to wash your truck ASAP. All the steel dust from your grinding job probably landed all over your truck. Definitely not good stuff to let sit for any length of time. It will eat through the wax and eventually through the clear coat.
So a search on "rail dust" and you'll see what I'm talking about.
Don't forget to wash your truck ASAP. All the steel dust from your grinding job probably landed all over your truck. Definitely not good stuff to let sit for any length of time. It will eat through the wax and eventually through the clear coat.
So a search on "rail dust" and you'll see what I'm talking about.
i had that problem when changin my spider gears,the driver side rotor and c clip came right off,but me and my teacher and another guy(i was goin to a tech school for mechanics) tried to get it off for an hour and it wouldn't budge finally just pulled the axle out with the rotor welded on
Fill the lug holes on the rotor with Liquid Wrench, Kroil, wd-40, etc. Let sit for an hour. Then hit the rotor all around IN BETWEEN the studs TOWARDS the truck. Just keep hitting in random circles being very careful not to damage the studs until the rotor "pops" loose. You can also hit the edges of the rotor in random places (Only if you are planning on replacing it)
DO NOT ever hit the rotor from behind not even once!!! Once you hit it from behind you slightly skew the rotor on the studs and you will never get it off. This is what happens to all "Doughnut" rotors. Never ever hit them or pry them from behind it just doesn't work.
If you still can't get it off with this process (Which does work most of the time) use a sawzall instead of a die grinder. (Less mess)
Before you put new rotors on remember to coat everything with lots of anti-sieze!!
Good luck.
DO NOT ever hit the rotor from behind not even once!!! Once you hit it from behind you slightly skew the rotor on the studs and you will never get it off. This is what happens to all "Doughnut" rotors. Never ever hit them or pry them from behind it just doesn't work.
If you still can't get it off with this process (Which does work most of the time) use a sawzall instead of a die grinder. (Less mess)
Before you put new rotors on remember to coat everything with lots of anti-sieze!!
Good luck.



